Originally Posted by yarrumevets

I put 1800 mAh 4S nanotech batteries in it - they weigh almost exactly the same as the 2200 mAh 3S types so I'm not changing the wing-loading or CoG at all. I keep the high-speed bursts to about 15 seconds duration and it's really good fun. It cruises at about 60% throttle. Highly recommended.

The only hassle I've been having is with my nosewheel retract - I did the metal trunnion upgrade and have had four faultless flights since, but today on the fifth flight the nosewheel decided to jam about one-third the way down when I was extending the gear to land (the mains where fine). I tried them up and down another three times, then inverted to see if that could free the jam - nothing doing. I had to put the mains up and bring her in for a gear-up belly-landing. Don't know what the problem is - when I got back from the field I was tired and it has been a really warm day so I got into the beers - the plane can wait until tomorrow

could be that the leg has slipped up a fraction and is catching the traveler bit on the worm gear??

I plan to fly mine with Rhino 2250 3S. I've now got some 2200 4S that weigh almost the same so I may try these.

Can the stock setup handle 4S?
I've got an uprated ESC spare but not a motor...

Cheers Mark - it's possible, for sure. I'll be sure to look for that as soon as I get the little devil open for inspection.

Originally Posted by SilentPilot

I plan to fly mine with Rhino 2250 3S. I've now got some 2200 4S that weigh almost the same so I may try these.

Can the stock setup handle 4S?
I've got an uprated ESC spare but not a motor...

Here you go mate ... and your French is probably better than mine:
http://www.bungymania.com/imageshome...rf1.php?id=134

Thanks

My French is quite poor too!
The table came in handy though, cheers. I'm not keen on dropping to 2blade prop so it looks like I'll have to sacrifice some speed. Good thrust though!!

Tony

I just stuck with the stock prop Tony, and no regrets - however, I've been too lazy to look seriously at alternatives, I must admit.
Cheers,
Steve

Yeah same here, too lazy!

Plus the stock prop really suits this plane so it's staying

Originally Posted by pghosh

For those of you who have tried the metal trunion, how effective of a solution is it? Do you still suffer broken front retracts with with the metal trunnion?

I sent away for the metal trunion from PW. By the way, if you ask, they will file the pieces for you so they fit when you get them. (o ring) I never completed the installation since the ledes on the wire came off the board on the retract.

Second question: Does anyone know which replacement shaft is needed to fit a single blade prop??? Would think it has to be a replacement shaft without the hex on it. What is the best way to fit a single blade and what have people tried? Was thinking 10 8.

So far I have had great success with the metal trunnion mod. Probably have 60-70 flights with it.

I bought one of these recently as an impulse buy and it has become a can of worms.

I note that many are having problems with the nose retract but I haven`t got that far yet .... My problem is that I just can`t get it to fly.....!

Our regular strip is 'grabby' grass - not like the sealed strips and country roads in much of the video here - and although that certainly is not a positive. The model will get up to a decent speed but just will not rotate. I reckon the nose leg is too short and the angle of attack sitting on the deck is all wrong....

My first reaction with the model back on the bench was to put a packer, say 6mm thick, under the retract unit, but I suspect from reading about front retract problems here that it might not be as simple as that...

I`ve spent quite some time in this thread looking for clues but not found a solution as yet.

Has anyone else had this problem and come up with a practical fix?

Alan W

Originally Posted by AlphaWhisky

I bought one of these recently as an impulse buy and it has become a can of worms.

I note that many are having problems with the nose retract but I haven`t got that far yet .... My problem is that I just can`t get it to fly.....!

Our regular strip is 'grabby' grass - not like the sealed strips and country roads in much of the video here - and although that certainly is not a positive. The model will get up to a decent speed but just will not rotate. I reckon the nose leg is too short and the angle of attack sitting on the deck is all wrong....

My first reaction with the model back on the bench was to put a packer, say 6mm thick, under the retract unit, but I suspect from reading about front retract problems here that it might not be as simple as that...

I`ve spent quite some time in this thread looking for clues but not found a solution as yet.

Has anyone else had this problem and come up with a practical fix?

Alan W

That is strange...this bird pops into the air quickly and flies like a dream. Something must be amiss with yours.

Try with flaps down?

Sure the elevator is moving properly, direction and amount?

Originally Posted by AlphaWhisky

I bought one of these recently as an impulse buy and it has become a can of worms.

I note that many are having problems with the nose retract but I haven`t got that far yet .... My problem is that I just can`t get it to fly.....!

Our regular strip is 'grabby' grass - not like the sealed strips and country roads in much of the video here - and although that certainly is not a positive. The model will get up to a decent speed but just will not rotate. I reckon the nose leg is too short and the angle of attack sitting on the deck is all wrong....

My first reaction with the model back on the bench was to put a packer, say 6mm thick, under the retract unit, but I suspect from reading about front retract problems here that it might not be as simple as that...

I`ve spent quite some time in this thread looking for clues but not found a solution as yet.

Has anyone else had this problem and come up with a practical fix?

Alan W

i fly off quite rough grass and have had a few flights(when the grass is quite nasty)where my t28 has traveled a long way down the field before its got up,but its never not made it
i guess it must be the grass in my case as when its freshly cut she jumps in the air real quick.
mark

I usually fly off very short grass and it's never wanted to stay on the ground.

Whisky - you do have a point when you talk about the front leg appearing to be short though. If I place my PZ T-28 next to it so I've got them both side-by-side, the Durafly does seem to have a negative incidence. I'm going to give that some attention when I get around to pulling mine all apart after last weekend's foray.

Originally Posted by AlphaWhisky

I bought one of these recently as an impulse buy and it has become a can of worms.

I note that many are having problems with the nose retract but I haven`t got that far yet .... My problem is that I just can`t get it to fly.....!

Our regular strip is 'grabby' grass - not like the sealed strips and country roads in much of the video here - and although that certainly is not a positive. The model will get up to a decent speed but just will not rotate. I reckon the nose leg is too short and the angle of attack sitting on the deck is all wrong....

My first reaction with the model back on the bench was to put a packer, say 6mm thick, under the retract unit, but I suspect from reading about front retract



problems here that it might not be as simple as that...


I`ve spent quite some time in this thread looking for clues but not found a solution as yet.

Has anyone else had this problem and come up with a practical fix?

Alan W

I takeoff from the grass runway as well never had any issue with TO. I would suggest to look at the thrust angle of your aircraft ,have you touched the firewall or motor since you bought it. It hardly need 3 -4 meters to get in the air .

Originally Posted by Force10

I takeoff from the grass runway as well never had any issue with TO. I would suggest to look at the thrust angle of your aircraft ,have you touched the firewall or motor since you bought it. It hardly need 3 -4 meters to get in the air .

Thanks for the input guys - some food for thought among it. I was right - the packer thing didn`t work. Although the model sat better on the ground, and the AOA thing looked better, the nosewheel would not fully retract into the well and the doors wouldn`t shut. I removed packers and went back to original.

I had previously noted that both the rudder and elevator servo arms were both set up on the middle of three holes and the throw on both surfaces was less than I would usually settle for so I have changed both of them to the outer holes. Elevator throw now looks better but the rudder could maybe use more, but that is not the problem here.

I haven`t played with the motor thrust line in any way, but if pressed I might reckon there is a hint of downthrust there. I`ll worry more about that after I have another go tomorrow with the increased elevator throw and this time I will try with some flaps down......

Alan W

Would it sitting low at the front be such a problem?
Surely it would just rotate onto the mains for a short while then takeoff, like the big boys do...