Thanks Rob, after the right wing was done I kinda got a better feel for applying them and had very few bubbles on the rest. Honestly there really isn't that many bubbles in the right wing but I am very picky. Really not hard to install at all. You did a great job on the decals. Thanks again.
Scott

Sweet, love the yellow/black checkerboard as well os going cowless

Sweet - liking the yellow/black checkers. I'm still debating going the vinyl route someday on this plane but so far still liking the 'plain' look too

Got 3 flights on my 70" Slick and 3 on my 57" Extra SC. Man, these make for an awesome combo. I'm really liking all the awesome characteristics of the Slick and it made for a perfect larger plane for me coming from 47" size. Now, I totally understand the "bigger flies better!"

Got home almost giddy last night because of how awesome those two planes are.

Thanks guys, since my SHP and my AJ Extra were yellow I realized that bright yellow just looks great in the air. I like the fantasy blue scheme but just wanted to add a bit to the yellow. Rob was great to deal with and very accomodating to my wants. Great service.
Scott

I was test mounting my Hacker A50-14L on the Slick today and noticed that I have a rather large gap between the spinner backplate and the cowl. I'm using a Tru-Turn spinner and wonder if that has something to do with it?

Thoughts? Did I over-looking something very obvious while mounting the motor?

Thanks

Brian

Brian,

Pull the blind nuts, put them on the front side of the motor box, then mount the X mount on the back side. You will need longer screws between the motor and X mount but I was able to get those at the local hardware store.

Schu

Originally Posted by akschu

Brian,

Pull the blind nuts, put them on the front side of the motor box, then mount the X mount on the back side. You will need longer screws between the motor and X mount but I was able to get those at the local hardware store.

Schu

Ahhh! Great idea! That should make it line up perfect!

Thanks

Brian

Originally Posted by belrix

I was test mounting my Hacker A50-14L on the Slick today and noticed that I have a rather large gap between the spinner backplate and the cowl. I'm using a Tru-Turn spinner and wonder if that has something to do with it?

Thoughts? Did I over-looking something very obvious while mounting the motor?

Thanks

Brian

It seems you have a 1.0 version of the 70" slick. The 2.0 batch has the motor box about 13 mm shorter to accommodate the A50-12L and a50-14L. I have both versions.

Hmm, just ordered it a couple of weeks ago, must have been a version 1.0 hanging around.

No worries, I will move the blind nuts and x-mount. Besides I'm still waiting on my batteries to arrive.

Brian

On another topic. What settings do I need to change on the Castle ICE 100 for the Hacker A50-14L with a Castle BEC Pro?

Thanks

BW

Originally Posted by belrix

Hmm, just ordered it a couple of weeks ago, must have been a version 1.0 hanging around.

No worries, I will move the blind nuts and x-mount. Besides I'm still waiting on my batteries to arrive.

Brian

On another topic. What settings do I need to change on the Castle ICE 100 for the Hacker A50-14L with a Castle BEC Pro?

Thanks

BW

No settings to change using a BEC, but you must pull the red wire out of the plug from the ESC to the receiver. If you don't know how to do that, just carefully lift up on the plastic tab that holds the brass contact in the plug, and gently pull it out. Fold it back and put some tape over it, or as I do, I pull all of them, fold the wire back and put some heat shrink over it, and then put the other wires back.

SteveT

Thanks!

Originally Posted by belrix

Thanks!

No problema....

One note is that a lot of people will pull the wire out on a servo extension, rather than the actuall ESC plug, as that way you are still able to program your ESC with-out having to re-insert the wire.

SteveT

I use the servo extension technique as my sacrificial connector.

Yup, the servo extension was a great idea. I have the Castle BEC Pro programmed to 6.0 volts. Should I change from auto-calibrate throttle to fixed endpoint? Also should I change the cutoff from hard to soft and volt from 3.0 to something lower?

Thanks

Originally Posted by belrix

Yup, the servo extension was a great idea. I have the Castle BEC Pro programmed to 6.0 volts. Should I change from auto-calibrate throttle to fixed endpoint? Also should I change the cutoff from hard to soft and volt from 3.0 to something lower?

Thanks

Soft cutoff and instead of auto-lipo at 3.0 volts per cell, I set mine at the lowest allowable voltage. (which I believe is 4 volts)

I do that because I'd rather ruin a battery than lose my plane to an LVC.

Fred