|
|
Thread OP
|
Discussion
brushed gpv-1 motor
Looking to change my stock motor fb 370 on my gpv-1 with another brushed one for now, but cant remember what thread I read that someone used a different one from a mini qwadzella or something like that, which was more powerfull.can someone please correct me on which motor it was.Victor
|
|
|
|
|
|
Thread OP
|
Ok thanks I may check for old stock at local hshp if not I might try a mini quake motor from duratraxx.In the future Im getting a 5200kv set from hobby partz $45 with program card.I guess you race your bike have you noticed on the steering that it will be fine sometimes and other times you need to keep corr to go in straight line.I think I know why, the collars on the str linkage have a bit of metal that extends out to center the springs but when you turn the sprg drops a bit till it touches the linkage sometimes it goes back into place but other times you have to turn other way till it seats again, have you noticed this at all check the left sprg in the pic.it doesnt happen allttm but its a pain.how much tension do put on your sprg, I now have .5 mm play and its drivable trax straigh until I want to change direction not on its own thanks to Bert frm this forum.Victor
|
|
|
|
||
|
Quote:
I have noticed that at least in workbench test sessions, but not really made the connection to this phaenomenon while driving. Something just sprang to mind a sec ago: Why don't you try setting up the steering with both collars reversed? that way the springs will seat against a flat surface instead of a rimmed one, and probably will always seat the same. Have not tried this yet myself as I obviously just thought of it. Cannot try it in the very near future either, since all riding areas over here are covered in snow and no indoor location availlable to me atm. For me, I will just go ahead and reverse the collars, if it doesn't improve things, I sure think it won't affect handling in a negative way either. Other possible solution could be fixating the springs somehow to the slider piece, so the springs won't wobble about when they are relieved of tension. But I would have to figure out how to achieve that first, no clue yet.... Brgds, Bert |
|
|
||
|
||
|
Quote:
Other solution that might do the trick: fabricate cusommade collars, with a cone shape. That way the spring will always center itself and settle in the same position. If the cone is not made too long, it should never touch the slider, and thus not affect steering in a negative way. Brgds, Bert |
|
|
||
|
||
|
Quote:
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
Regarding the Motor: We are running a Graupner Speed 300 6V on Lipo - runs good!
(Just donīt buy the 7.2V Version, that one is slooow ) |
|
|
|
|
Thread OP
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I run my springs just touching but no pressure on them. I also changes the collars for slightly smaller ones I had lying around from my planes as the original ones were rubbing on the chassis and causing some eratic handeling on me.
Eden |
|
|
|
|
Thread OP
|
speed 300
Just installed one in my bike big difference much faster, only thing now the brakes dont work right when I apply them they only go on one second and wont work again unless I speed up again. Am I missing something?Victor
|
|
|
|
|
|
I think Vic669 does not yet have the brake disc set yet. What he describes sounds to me as the unfortunately "normal" behaviour of the stock ESC.
That does indeed only apply an uncontrollable amount of braking for a very limited time, and does not brake again unless you let go of the brake, throttle a little and brake again. Braking cannot be dosed, nor can it be sustained as long as you keep on the brakes. Both my GPV-1's came with that ESC, so it's not that I had a monday-morning ESC. Chris Nicastro or other people at Venom: Why are you still supplying the bike with this ridiculously unsuitable ESC???? Only remedy is another ESC that does have a normal brake characteristic unfortunately. I have the brake kit installed on one of my bikes, and do not use return springs. In fact, I run the set completely original, NO modifications other than deburring of parts (caliperbody and brake fulcrums) and they work excellent from the start, including the kit supplied servo. Brgds, Bert |
|
|
|
|
|
By rights you shouldn't need a return spring as the way the disc is turning, it naturally want to disengage the brake cam. (In saying that, I run small springs in mine)
Eden |
|
|
|
||
|
Quote:
Brgds, Bert |
|
|
||
Thread Tools | |
Similar Threads | |||||
Category | Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Discussion | NEW Venom 1/8th RTR Bike, the GPV-1 from CML! | Dez82 | Motorcycles | 3333 | Apr 06, 2015 01:32 PM |
Sold | Venom GPV-1 1/8 R/C Bike Plus Extras $100 Shipped or trade for 1/5 bike or parts! | reddyrightnow | Cars - Motorcycles (FS/W) | 2 | Jan 24, 2010 11:03 PM |
Discussion | Set Up Sheet 1/8 Venom GPV-1 | 621clay | Motorcycles | 1 | Dec 30, 2009 05:51 PM |
Sold | 1/8 Venom Gpv-1 R/c Motorcycle Body Parts | reddyrightnow | Cars - Motorcycles (FS/W) | 0 | Oct 26, 2009 08:51 PM |
Sold | Venom 1/8 GPV-1 3-Channel RTR | lv2soar | Cars - Motorcycles (FS/W) | 0 | Jan 18, 2009 10:40 PM |