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Nov 22, 2010, 08:04 PM
Dyslexic crash pro!
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdp3822
I wonder if 12T is too much? Thanks for the info!!
I have an 11 tooth on my 2221-8 V2 (3595kv). I forget what I was getting for headspeed, but it was around 2850-2900 0 pitch. Flies pretty nice for me there so I haven't changed it. I think I'd go with a smaller pinion on a -6 unless you like crazy headspeed and possible main blade projectiles....

/Dave
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Nov 22, 2010, 09:49 PM
Love my scale Whirlybirds
Keyrigger's Avatar
A good quality 70 durometer "O" ring will do the job very well. I bought about 40 of them the last time I was at the gasket shop and they last much longer than the stock ones. You can add one more shim to each side with a firmer "O" ring and that should take some of the slop out of the head. As to the "Drop-in" replacement heads, try buying a good brand name head as you will find the parts will last longer. If I was not planning to build mine into a scale bird with a four blade head (I already have that from RC Aerodyne), I would buy either the Eflite upgrade head parts or a T-Rex V2 head that is in the LHS and make up some links to match and use the Eflite all metal swashplate. Take care.

Don
Nov 22, 2010, 10:33 PM
I hate waiting for parts
Mike_Then's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyrigger
A good quality 70 durometer "O" ring will do the job very well. I bought about 40 of them the last time I was at the gasket shop and they last much longer than the stock ones. You can add one more shim to each side with a firmer "O" ring and that should take some of the slop out of the head. As to the "Drop-in" replacement heads, try buying a good brand name head as you will find the parts will last longer. If I was not planning to build mine into a scale bird with a four blade head (I already have that from RC Aerodyne), I would buy either the Eflite upgrade head parts or a T-Rex V2 head that is in the LHS and make up some links to match and use the Eflite all metal swashplate. Take care.

Don
So the T-Rex V2 head will bolt onto the E-Flite shaft no problem? I have no issue making up new linkages. I was thinking of adding more shims, yeah, as there's only two per side right now. I'll maybe take a trip to Lowe's and see what I can find as far as o-rings go. Thanks for the response!
Nov 22, 2010, 10:44 PM
Love my scale Whirlybirds
Keyrigger's Avatar
I have not tried to bolt the head up as of yet but there are maybe minor adjustments to the length of the shaft that might have to be made. The hole might be closer to the top of the Align shaft, which will mean shortening the Blade shaft slightly, or if it is further, drilling a new hole for the Align head in the Blade shaft. I can't see it being a big fitting problem as the 4 blade head I have was for the Align heli and all I needed to do was drill out the hole in the 400's shaft for the larger Jesus bolt of the Align and make custom linkages. Take care.

Don
Nov 23, 2010, 08:32 AM
I hate waiting for parts
Mike_Then's Avatar
I took out some of the aluminum upgrades and went back to the plastic parts and that - believe it or not - took out quite a bit of the slop. I only had three extra shims so I've got four on one side and three on the other. That seemed to help as well. The o-rings don't really fit in the E-Flite aluminum head very well. I've still got a few plastic heads but I didn't feel like disassembling the flybar cage again. A friend and fellow club member has a couple of Align T-Rex 450 o-rings that he's going to give me to see if that further stiffens things up. I'll put a test-flight on it soon to see if these adjustments have helped.
Last edited by Mike_Then; Nov 23, 2010 at 08:43 AM.
Nov 23, 2010, 10:24 PM
Registered User
bdp3822's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by loopy1
I have an 11 tooth on my 2221-8 V2 (3595kv). I forget what I was getting for headspeed, but it was around 2850-2900 0 pitch. Flies pretty nice for me there so I haven't changed it. I think I'd go with a smaller pinion on a -6 unless you like crazy headspeed and possible main blade projectiles....

/Dave
Thanks for the info!

Bryon
Nov 24, 2010, 06:21 AM
Can't-Get-Right
tedwearsahat's Avatar
Mine is running about the same headspeed (2.9k to 3.0k in a hover) depending on battery pack, I'm not sure I would want to go much over 3.0k on the stock head, maybe 3.2, not without serious eye protection anyway!

On a different note I planned on flying the B400 at lunch today but a worn ball link on the flybar cage means I will have to change that out instead. This seems to be a reoccuring thing on my B400, I need to change one of these about every 50 flights.
Nov 24, 2010, 10:29 AM
Registered User
Hey guys 50% off all Blade 400 parts at espirit. "BLADE50" They dont have a huge selection but they have some CNC parts as well
Nov 24, 2010, 08:48 PM
Registered User
Had the maiden flight today that wasnt really a flight....When it would get light on the skids all it wanted to do was just put the nose into the ground. The morre throttle i gave it the more it tipped. i eventually pushed it to much and shredded the blades. No amount of pulling back the cyclic kept the nose from going in. Are my servos possibly in the wrong slots?
Nov 24, 2010, 09:11 PM
Rocket Programmer
jasmine2501's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by beginner4life
Are my servos possibly in the wrong slots?
Usually a good idea to check that before you take off...
Nov 24, 2010, 09:48 PM
Registered User
I did. Multiple times and everything seemed to check out. Checked again and theyre in the right position. Is the the throttle supposed to be mixed with cyclic? It appears as throttle increases the cyclic is changed as well
Nov 24, 2010, 09:51 PM
Registered User
Throttle shouldn't be mixed with cyclic, but it should be mixed with collective, that is, increasing/reducing throttle will also cause all 3 servos to move the swash up & down in unison (collectively). How much the swash moves depends on swash mix settings for pitch and your pitch curves. If fewer than 3 servos move along with throttle changes then something's not right ...
Last edited by FR4-Pilot; Nov 24, 2010 at 09:57 PM.
Nov 24, 2010, 09:56 PM
Registered User
That must be what im talking about. Nevermind then. I checked my cg as well and it seems perfectly centered. Maybe reduce the forward cyclic mix on the swash mix?
Nov 24, 2010, 10:00 PM
Registered User
Is the swash plate level at mid stick, low stick and high stick (the throttle stick, that is) ?
Nov 24, 2010, 10:08 PM
Registered User
Hmm i will look thanks for the tip im guessing thats the issue.


Edit: Okay so looking from the back, at 0 throttle the swash plate is to the left and back and at middle the swash in level and then at full it is forward and right. How can i fix this?
Last edited by beginner4life; Nov 24, 2010 at 10:23 PM.


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