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Steve, welcome it's great go have another Brit on the thread. Great collection of helicopters, I have only recently managed to pursued the wife to let me have the 9116. Do you know of any good parts suppliers in the Uk?
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RE: Supplier for Spare PartsQuote:
~L. |
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Tail motor issues?
Anyone else losing their tail motor fairly early on in the life of the copter? I've probably flown 20-25 times now and the copter is starting to get tail happy where only full right rudder will straighten it out, okay for a few seconds and then starts spinning again. Seems as if the tail motor is slow to start and just seems sluggish. I'm flying it early mornings when it's cold (35-40F) and it seems okay for the first few minutes of flight and then starts going wonky. Don't know if maybe it's the cold weather affecting it or if the motor is failing. Unfortunately, can't fly it long enough in the house to see if it reacts the same in a controlled temperature.
I've got an extra boom/motor combination that I may try out but if it's truly the motor getting weak this quickly, does anyone know of an upgraded motor for that application? There is also the distinct possibility I burned it out using the 900mah battery and keeping it airborne for 7-8 minutes at a time |
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Only people in the UK that sell parts as far as I know is Netgadgets, thats where I got my 9116,9104 & 9100 from - Very helpful people but don't know what their parts stock is like. As with most on here I buy from HK because of the price and choice. |
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Probably got 10 flights on mine with no problems. You can buy a product from Tower I think called Power Spray for electric motors that I use after 5 or 6 flights or so that will wash out the crud from worn brushes and supposedly extends the life of the brushed motors we deal with. My can is several years old so the product might be called something else but I am sure it's available somewhere. I do get gray colored material coming out during the wash.
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Last edited by Whizgig; Jan 30, 2012 at 09:23 PM.
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Tom,
I sent you an email forwarded from super & cheaper on ebay about that PCB. Apparently, it is the 9116 PCB, they look as if they haven't got an image to put up. So it's good to buy for $20.00aud including shipping. |
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Hi Mick, I can't remember but there are some that will eat plastic I know a few people from my old club that have come accross some that have distroyed plastic so I would ask and read the discriptions on the cans before buying them and even then I would test it with the same plastic or an old motor first.
I need to get something myself I know CRC Lectra Clean dosn't eat plastic but it's not cheap. |
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Yeah, I might see about getting a can, I'll give it a go on my old motor and see if it will rejuvenate it.
CRC Lectra Clean, according to the MSDS is >60% Bromopropane and <10% Carbon Dioxide, DG Class 2.2, Hazchem 2Y, is slightly water soluble and fast evaporating. As long as there are no sparks when you are cleaning it, due to the propelant, and as long as you rinse the item in it, not soak it, it should not hurt plastics. Propane is a mild solvent, but only on direct prolonged exposure, like soaking, but since it has a high evaporation rate, I doubt it would last long enough on the surface to do any real damage. It also depends on the type of plastic too. I know the canopy is made of polystrene as plastic modelling glue works well on any cracks, etc, and the other plastics are polyethylene, which are both susceptible to surface or completely dissolving with products like benzene, acetone (nail polish remover), methanol (alchohol) or ethanol (methylated spirits, or white spirit) or mineral turpentine based solvents, irelevant whether they be HDPE or LDPE. Cloudy or non-cloudy ammonia (blue window cleaner or 'windex"), diluted alkali based detergents, or very small quantities of dissolved laundry powder and warm water are good cleaning agents for tough marks on plastics with out ruining the surface condition, or just good old fashioned warm, soapy water and a bit of elbow grease works just as well I've found. |
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I had heard of soaking the motors in denatured alcohol and spinning them by hand to loosen, remove and eject any carbon build up from between the armature contacts will work. It is also a way of forming or "bedding in" the carbon brushes before use.
I know when electric motors get weak in cars, you are to clean out the gaps between the armature contacts above the windings with a snapped off hacksaw blade to bring them back to life (the carbon arcs out between the contacts, therefore inhibiting the windings to create an electro-magnet field strong enough to repulse the equally strong electro-magnetic field created by the outer magnets lining the inside of the body of the motor (I think I've got that right?), but I think the armature is a wee bit small to do that with these motors. |
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