Originally Posted by Galand

Disabling the red lead on the ESC plug is indeed what you do when installing a normal UBEC.
But this is a "SmartBec" (pun intended).
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/SmartBEC.htm
From it's documentation:
"The SmartBEC installs between your ESC and receiver, so you don't have to modify your speed control to disable its internal BEC, just plug it in. SmartBEC works by modifying the throttle commands sent to the ESC, so if the ESC has low voltage cutoff settings, they will still be active. Whichever LVC occurs first (ESC or SmartBEC) will take precedence"
This thing combines UBEC powerfeed and ESC throttle commands in the same plug. I liked it because it has a LVC that I can set above the LVC in the ESC's to prevent asymmetric motor shut-down.
So disconnecting the red lead will stop all power to the Rx, but thanks for trying to help.

does not matter that it is a smart BEC. Has nothing to do with it. You have two ESC power supplies connected in parallel and they are still supplying power to the red lead. Even if you disconnect the battery from one ESC, you are powering it from the other one and it will try to run the motor.

Have you tried disconecting the red wire in the arms of the Y-cable just to test the theory? Costs you very litle they are cheaper that what it costs to have a nose or finger re attached.

Originally Posted by Dangaras

does not matter that it is a smart BEC. Has nothing to do with it. You have two ESC power supplies connected in parallel and they are still supplying power to the red lead. Even if you disconnect the battery from one ESC, you are powering it from the other one and it will try to run the motor.

Have you tried disconecting the red wire in the arms of the Y-cable just to test the theory? Costs you very litle they are cheaper that what it costs to have a nose or finger re attached.

I thought you meant disconnecting the red lead where it plugs into the Rx (that would cut the power to the Rx), but you seem to indicate to try disconnecting the red lead where it plugs into the SmartBec or even more upstream, where the ESC's connect to the Y lead. That way the Rx still gets power from the UBEC.
I'll see what that does.

Originally Posted by Galand

I thought you meant disconnecting the red lead where it plugs into the Rx (that would cut the power to the Rx), but you seem to indicate to try disconnecting the red lead where it plugs into the SmartBec or even more upstream, where the ESC's connect to the Y lead. That way the Rx still gets power from the UBEC.
I'll see what that does.

Sorry, I should have been more specific. The fact you are running a twin system changes how the ubec configuration works. I have seen this before, people have burned up ESCs and models because they ran 50amps through that little control wire when the main power wires suffered a connector relate failure.

Originally Posted by Dangaras

Sorry, I should have been more specific. The fact you are running a twin system changes how the ubec configuration works. I have seen this before, people have burned up ESCs and models because they ran 50amps through that little control wire when the main power wires suffered a connector relate failure.

Yep, disconnecting both red leads at the level of the ESC plug going into the Y lead takes care of the problem. I am still amazed that that is exactly what the Dimension Engineering commercial blurb says you do NOT have to do with their "SmartBec"!
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/SmartBEC.htm
Excellent advice Dangeras, thank you very much!
The rpm fluctuations disappear with higher C batteries and that takes care of that.
Interesting day!

Already tried to turn the mix off with the gear switch...there is no provision for it







....unless I'm being an idiot, which is probably just as likely LOL

Originally Posted by Galand

Yep, disconnecting both red leads at the level of the ESC plug going into the Y lead takes care of the problem. I am still amazed that that is exactly what the Dimension Engineering commercial blurb says you do NOT have to do with their "SmartBec"!
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/SmartBEC.htm
Excellent advice Dangeras, thank you very much!
The rpm fluctuations disappear with higher C batteries and that takes care of that.
Interesting day!

No problem, twins always mean you have your hands full all the time. Take your time, double check everything and have a blast flying.

Originally Posted by WestTexasKing

Already tried to turn the mix off with the gear switch...there is no provision for it L

Ummmm.. With my Spektrum Dx6i, I chose the gear switch to switch the mix (RUDD>AUX1) on/off instead of the AUX1 switch I used originally. Does your tx allow you to do that?

The mixes can only be toggled with the 3 position switch, your choices are:

1. On
2. Off
3. NOR
4. ID1
5. ID2

First option turns the mix on regardless of switch position.
The second option is kinda redundant, since it's just the same as disabling the mix.
The next three are the first, second, and third positions on the switch.

You don't get the option to master or slave the 3 position switch, only:

1. Hov Pit (pot)
2. Hov Thro (pot)
3. Pit Trim (pot)
4. Gear
5. Thro Hold
6. Null

So you can set the rudder to slave the nosewheel, but you can't slave the mix toggle to anything but the 3 position switch.
Can't set the gear to work off the 3 position switch because it's not one of your master/slave options.
You can, however, slave the nosewheel to rudder, then deactivate using the 3 position switch.
So, you would have to operate two switches for gear cycles and that's what we're trying to avoid.

One thing I have been confused about is that the 3 position switch has other markings in addition to being labeled as the mix toggle.
It also has AUX 3 and F. MODE right next to it.
I assume that F. MODE is flight mode, so you can set different mixes like flaperons for landing or throttle>rudder for counteracting P-factor during takeoff (I've done that with a Pitts before), then switch it back to normal flight (NOR, or first position).
The AUX 3 label has me baffled, though.
I can't get it to show up in my aux channels no matter what I do.

Also, I should state that I'm working everything within the ACRO mode.
Haven't tried GLID or HELI, as GLID may have some potentially helpful features not listed in ACRO.

Originally Posted by WestTexasKing

Also, I should state that I'm working everything within the ACRO mode.
Haven't tried GLID or HELI, as GLID may have some potentially helpful features not listed in ACRO.

I did reach that deadend earlier, that's why your statement made my ears prick up.
I guess the only Tx based solution would be to install the er9x firmware:
http://code.google.com/p/er9x/
I have the solderless board and the EProm flasher but I am a bit scared to damage the FS, although I installed the backlight. Felt very courageous!
There is a site that gives some good practical hiunts in the FS9Ch:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
A microswitch to cut the signal when gear is up, looks simpler.

Well, I thought that jumping the last set of pins for the 3 position switch to the gear switch would simplify it down to a single toggle.
Would only take two wires soldered on to accomplish it, and probably wouldn't interfere with any other model's setup.
You could have it to where the gear cycle up from the ID2 position, since you wouldn't want the gear to start out retracted due to the switch error BS.
The mix could be located on ID1 or NOR, so when you switched to ID2 the mix would become inoperative at the same time the gear are being retracted.
I'm actually considering this with mine, even adding the throttle cut switch for flaps (no nitro for me) on ID1, so I can use the 3 position switch as a master or slave at my discretion.

Flew my p38 yesterday with the new motors. I have to say, the props from the B-25 are like a Granny gear. I will definitely be switching to something with more pitch. I knew it was going to be slow, but its TOOO slow. Vertical suffers cause I cant build up any speed. The props are like brakes in a dive at WOT.

Cub

Does anyone know if the one HK sells is the V2? Ive got the V1 sitting in the box as it wont fit in my car with the non removeable wing.Brutus

Originally Posted by WestTexasKing

Pilot...no need for the molded in hex, it'll only make the situation worse anyway.
What you need to do is tighten two nuts together with a small washer between them right behind the back plate.
That allows the back plate to be nearly identical in original spacing and not deform under torque.
It'll take some adjustment but you should be able to get the spinner near flush with the cowling.
After you've got the spacing set up, reinstall the prop and tighten it down with a nylon insert lock nut.
Don't get it too tight, it'll warp the back plate, but you do want it snug.
Shouldn't have a single loose prop related issue after that...

Thanks Westpilot,

That explanation helps. I just need to get some spacers for hole in the center of the propeller hub, because my backplates no longer have the diameter spindle which goes through the propellers and the small diameter of the threaded V1 motor shafts are to small to let the propellers slide on straight.

That will work, I had mine spin so much that it melted the spindle out completely.
I drilled the melted portion out and had just enough to center the prop on the backing plate, which is all you really need.
A washer in front of the hub keeps it true.