Very nice manual !! Thanks for taking the time to write it. This will certainly prevent newbs like me to **** their zeph up! hehe

Originally Posted by metalfred

Very nice manual !! Thanks for taking the time to write it. This will certainly prevent newbs like me to **** their zeph up! hehe

If it accomplishes that then it was worth doing. Thanks!

It's a different way but what I did for painting was:

- Apply laminating film normally (no sparkling, just 3M90 under the laminate)
- Paint over the laminating film with strong spray (tagging spray)
- Let dry 48H

Advantage: paint finish is extremely extremely good, and actually resists humidity, water, etc
Disadvantage: some paint can go off on fiction aka crashes or hard landings

Might picture my wing after 6-7month of such paint, no repaint, there's a couple of spots where the paint as gone but overall still looks great.

I'm sure its not for everyone, but I sort of like it. I'd like to see the finish with sparkling stuff however.

Originally Posted by klique

Tim try it on a wingbed backside and tell me what you think.

Chris -- went to Home Depot and bought some paint, the light spackling, and some 220 sanding paper. I bought the small pot of spackling. I did a small piece on the back of one of the wing-beds and realize that you actually need a good amount of the spackling to close all the EPP pores. This will add a little bit of weight. When I spray painted the dried and sanded area the difference is apparent. Paint on the raw EPP looks like a soaked sponge -- not attractive at all. On the spackled area, the paint looks much cleaner, brighter, and smoother, without soaking into the EPP. I also tried to find the Loctite 200, but they did not have that. Instead, I bought 3M "general purpose" #45. It sprays on clean on the coroplast. It's drying now, so not sure how dry it'll get and if it can be sanded, but it's smooth and clean so far. Let me know if you ever tried the 3M 45. Next I will spray the painted/spackled area with the 45 and then apply a piece of lam to see how well this looks when it's all done.

I have a question regarding the prop stops: I am using the same ones as described in this thread. The rear one is fine as is. The front one (the one preventing the blades from overextending when starting up the engine) is slightly hindering the opening of the blades. With a bit of pressure the blades wil unfold completely as the stops are made of fibreglass. I am using the 38mm centre piece. Are the centrifugal forces strong enough to open the blades agains the resistance of the prop stop or do I need to trim it a bit?

If my issue is not completely clear let me know and i'll post a pic.

Maarten

Originally Posted by Garbach

I have a question regarding the prop stops: I am using the same ones as described in this thread. The rear one is fine as is. The front one (the one preventing the blades from overextending when starting up the engine) is slightly hindering the opening of the blades. With a bit of pressure the blades wil unfold completely as the stops are made of fibreglass. I am using the 38mm centre piece. Are the centrifugal forces strong enough to open the blades agains the resistance of the prop stop or do I need to trim it a bit?

If my issue is not completely clear let me know and i'll post a pic.

Maarten

The plastic piece only comes in one size -- but there are many different size middle pieces from 30 to 45mm in width. So you will need to trimm the prop stop piece if it's too long and preventing the prop from unfolding completely. There can also be an issue if the middle piece is not thick enough and the prop sticks out where it is attached to the middle piece -- I do believe that issue is dealt with ok by the force of the prop opening under rotation.... not sure though, not that far along. I've seen people bending the prop stop away from the middle piece to not have the prop end touch the prop stop while opening/closing.

You dont really need the front stops if you are carful that your prop is not forward on startup at launch.Thats the only time you would need it,otherwise the wind always blows the blades aft.

Originally Posted by Garbach

I have a question regarding the prop stops: I am using the same ones as described in this thread. The rear one is fine as is. The front one (the one preventing the blades from overextending when starting up the engine) is slightly hindering the opening of the blades. With a bit of pressure the blades wil unfold completely as the stops are made of fibreglass. I am using the 38mm centre piece. Are the centrifugal forces strong enough to open the blades agains the resistance of the prop stop or do I need to trim it a bit?

If my issue is not completely clear let me know and i'll post a pic.

Maarten

Originally Posted by klique

You dont really need the front stops if you are carful that your prop is not forward on startup at launch.Thats the only time you would need it,otherwise the wind always blows the blades aft.

Makes sense!

Btw Tim, where did you end up putting your motor mount? I used the first two holes for the inside spars and am thinking of running the front of the motor moynt up to the last hole: leaves me a bit of foam between the mount and the spars to reduce noise.

I plan to put a go pro on it so that gives me some extra mass to get the cog right.

Originally Posted by Garbach

... Btw Tim, where did you end up putting your motor mount? I used the first two holes for the inside spars and am thinking of running the front of the motor moynt up to the last hole: leaves me a bit of foam between the mount and the spars to reduce noise.

I plan to put a go pro on it so that gives me some extra mass to get the cog right.

I moved my motor right up to the TE as far as possible as I will be using 3300mah 4s batteries. Here is a picture of my "Lara 260".

I've got mine in just a little bit further, but I'm on 3s batteries so they'd be a bit lighter.

I like the recess at the back, I presume this is where your ESC will live?

here's a pic of mine so far. looks like where almost at the same spot!

Did an engine test and it runs at about 45 A and 425 watt and makes a fair amount of noise!

Originally Posted by Garbach

Did an engine test and it runs at about 45 A and 425 watt and makes a fair amount of noise!

Noise..................NOISE??????

That there my friend is MUSIC!

I have some 3M 77 spray glue.
Can I sub that for the 3M 90 or the Loctite 200?

Originally Posted by galaxiex

I have some 3M 77 spray glue.
Can I sub that for the 3M 90 or the Loctite 200?

No, you can not. 3M 77 has different properties from the 3M 90. There are a few posts that go into the details. Also, the Loctite 200 has different properties from the 3M 90 & 77, so you have to follow the manual and use the correct glue for each step of the process.

Originally Posted by timnilson

No, you can not. 3M 77 has different properties from the 3M 90. There are a few posts that go into the details. Also, the Loctite 200 has different properties from the 3M 90 & 77, so you have to follow the manual and use the correct glue for each step of the process.

Thank you!

Hi guys

i am building some ritewings

i need loctite 200 but i am french

loctite 200 don't sold in europe , i just phone loctite.fr

i have:
3m77
3m90
goop
shoes
gorilla

but need loctite 200 for smooth surface paint for Lam

someone can send me some loctite 200 bomb ??

or help me to found US E-shop

i need 3 bomb and send to Luxembourg and paye with paypal


you can answer on my mail: kilowattrc@live.fr

thanks , regards
Black-raiser