Originally Posted by pugsam

Thanks, RIck.

Here's the post where I give my riff on the original idea (from Chicken Sashimi):

http://ww.rcgroups.com/forums/showpo...postcount=9293



I luv that stuff, too.

For a max-strength F4F cowl, I do the cowl's inside with the drywall tape and welder glue reinforcement as described above, and on the bottom of the outside I add a piece of duct tape in some high-vis color.

The last thing is, I grease all my landings , so those mods are totally unnecessary.........

Gee give those two planes a room!

I used to spend time reinforcing cowls.
Now just simple packing tape with the glass fibers running through it placed mainly on the bottom and crossed.

One previous set up stood up to nose in serious enough to break a pwr 15 motor shaft. explode the motor mount, break the hatch in half and shorten the nose, strip the E&R servos and pull out both wings.
Too bad it was a crash virgin unit.
This was over the E control horn failing.
I tried Chicken Sashimi's and other ideas.

This was quick and works.
Oh the cowl in that crash lost a 1/2" chunk part of a cylinder.

Start with packing tape ( Must have string in it)
Lay it in a criss cross pattern all around.
Lay in gorilla glue in layers.
At each lift wet it with water.
If I felt the need to do that again I would use Great Stuff foam.

That cowl can still be used, But I prefer a more neutral CG these days.
Not all of my landings are greased, but I do no feel the need! Chris

Originally Posted by Wamp

A

After one season the exit holes were beat up and the cf had come lose.
It took me time to see.
All that time I kept blaming my flying skill for what was the Wildcat's foible!

That original set up was just to informal for me!
Once the glue was cleaned out and the ends reamed, the thread ran through just fine on both units here.

Heli guys go for really nice (correct) housings to run tail rotors.
Wildcat can get away with a lot less.
Dupro. industry standard stuff is great.

The hot glue took a while to cool locked up in foam.
The tail controls have never felt so positive.
Most of my planes,, if not all , have the housings anchored at both ends..
Thanks Chris

Where did you anchor the front

Originally Posted by Wamp

Gee give those two planes a room!

I used to spend time reinforcing cowls.
Now just simple packing tape with the glass fibers running through it placed mainly on the bottom and crossed.

One previous set up stood up to nose in serious enough to break a pwr 15 motor shaft. explode the motor mount, break the hatch in half and shorten the nose, strip the E&R servos and pull out both wings.
Too bad it was a crash virgin unit.
This was over the E control horn failing.
I tried Chicken Sashimi's and other ideas.

This was quick and works.
Oh the cowl in that crash lost a 1/2" chunk part of a cylinder.

Start with packing tape ( Must have string in it)
Lay it in a criss cross pattern all around.
Lay in gorilla glue in layers.
At each lift wet it with water.
If I felt the need to do that again I would use Great Stuff foam.

That cowl can still be used, But I prefer a more neutral CG these days.
Not all of my landings are greased, but I do no feel the need! Chris

I laid a tiny layer of welder glue over the broken fake engine and it worked good.

Got the room and when the day is done we will have a flock of grandcats to fly.

Fair skies Chris

Rick

Originally Posted by Rickflaguy

Where did you anchor the front

Have not. Meant to point that out.
Looked at binding them were they cross, did not.

In retrospect non of the rods in my UMs
run in housings.

Wildcat is so much better! I'll give em a go. Chris

Originally Posted by Rickflaguy

I laid a tiny layer of welder glue over the broken fake engine and it worked good.

Got the room and when the day is done we will have a flock of grandcats to fly.

Fair skies Chris

Rick

Hope the grand cats live up to their history!
Fair air Rick! Chris

Originally Posted by Wamp

Have not. Meant to point that out.
Looked at binding them were they cross, did not.

In retrospect non of the rods in my UMs
run in housings.

Wildcat is so much better! I'll give em a go. Chris

The housings I've seen have more clearence than mine. Mine is definitely CF. Yours?

hey guy's!! was wondering if someone would give me there expert opinion? f4 wildcat eflite power 10- 40amp pro esc.. Wich prop would you use 10x7E or 10.5x9!?

Originally Posted by Rickflaguy

The housings I've seen have more clearence than mine. Mine is definitely CF. Yours?

Yes CF for sure. Cut best with wheel on dremel.
Reamed with #11.
At first could not get it past threads and used a wire stripper/cutter a bigger dia then the rod. This shattered the CF.
Dipped in accelerator and a little ca fixed that.
The cheapo HF diamond wheel made clean work of it when off the rod!
My wife uses CF shafts in archery. I got a dedicated cutter which has some kind of abrasive/ resin wheel.
Of note the health warnings that come with arrow shafts are scary! Chris

Originally Posted by greatlakespilot

hey guy's!! was wondering if someone would give me there expert opinion? f4 wildcat eflite power 10- 40amp pro esc.. Wich prop would you use 10x7E or 10.5x9!?

Currently I have an APC 10X7E on the E-flight power Ten and a Castle 54.
It does every thing I want it to.
T is smooth end to end. Flight times are good and yes vertical!
I have been wanting to try an 11X5.5E but 11 is probably pushing it for a belly lander.
Of note it is worth the time to balance props. Chris

Originally Posted by greatlakespilot

hey guy's!! was wondering if someone would give me there expert opinion? f4 wildcat eflite power 10- 40amp pro esc.. Wich prop would you use 10x7E or 10.5x9!?

Depends on amp draw and battery capacity.

Originally Posted by LunaRendezvous

Depends on amp draw and battery capacity.

I havent checked amp draw yet.. But i will be useing 2100 mah 35c 3s! Was wondering wich prop would give the most top speedout of the two!?

oh there wont be an awful lot in it, those two props have similar top speeds, you will probably find the bigger prop will accelerate faster, but chew more amps. you might like to buy a 9x9 also.

Originally Posted by LunaRendezvous

oh there wont be an awful lot in it, those two props have similar top speeds, you will probably find the bigger prop will accelerate faster, but chew more amps. you might like to buy a 9x9 also.

For speed the stepper pitch, but drop a dia.
You may have to use T management with that big one.

Figure your kv on 10V over your flight.

So 11000 rpm.
From my pitch speed nomograph.
9 reads 118 mph
8. 101
7. 90
6. 80
5.5. 65
You will not get these pure speeds.
With the 7 my power 10 Cat may get 60.
But as long as I get get out of trouble, vertical
power, I am happy Chris

Originally Posted by Wamp

For speed the stepper pitch, but drop a dia.
You may have to use T management with that big one.

Figure your kv on 10V over your flight.

So 11000 rpm.
From my pitch speed nomograph.
9 reads 118 mph
8. 101
7. 90
6. 80
5.5. 65
You will not get these pure speeds.
With the 7 my power 10 Cat may get 60.
But as long as I get get out of trouble, vertical
power, I am happy Chris

Droid would not let me get the smiley in were wanted.

I did in fact try an 11X5.5 Wildcat was slow and flight times were short.
Vertical was there. Over a year later bet it will harrier with one! Chris

Originally Posted by Wamp

Yes CF for sure. Cut best with wheel on dremel.
Reamed with #11.
At first could not get it past threads and used a wire stripper/cutter a bigger dia then the rod. This shattered the CF.
Dipped in accelerator and a little ca fixed that.
The cheapo HF diamond wheel made clean work of it when off the rod!
My wife uses CF shafts in archery. I got a dedicated cutter which has some kind of abrasive/ resin wheel.
Of note the health warnings that come with arrow shafts are scary! Chris

I bought some tube at the LHS last night. Going th put it back to the cross where I'll Welder them. Strip the CA from the end so the rod can flex and glue the CA in place.