Guys, I am trying to program a switch (any switch!) on my A9 to turn on and off some of the KE mixes or high and low rates for ails, rudder, ele that are set up on my planes. Can someone point me in the right direction?

Also, Is there any way to program high, medium and low rates on one switch (or maybe 2) depending on the situation? I think the answer is yes but wanted to confirm.

I did a search in this thread for some help but it came up with way too many results Sorry if this has been covered before. I am sure it has. tommy

Originally Posted by tdab

Guys, I am trying to program a switch (any switch!) on my A9 to turn on and off some of the KE mixes or high and low rates for ails, rudder, ele that are set up on my planes. Can someone point me in the right direction?
tommy

http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/s...postcount=2355

Originally Posted by Dead

Yes.

I am 3D flyer that is working on bringing more precision to his game. I have all three rates on switch C. It is very comfortable to switch back and forth. I have insane throws set with switch in up position. I have low set with swtich in middle position, and normal 3D set with switch all the way down.

This may seem counter intuitive, but I want to be able to easily pull down to normal 3D throws if I get into trouble....

Dead, This is what I need, please tell me how you programmed this

Has there been any word on a refresh for the Aurora 9 - ie. Aurora 9 V2 or maybe Aurora 10..?

It's been out quite awhile now without any significant update to the current model.

Thanks,
-mike-

What is really needed is the ability to copy a flight phase to a new flight phase.

It's a right pain the ars$ if you want to add a new phase to an existing setup.

Originally Posted by tdab

Dead, This is what I need, please tell me how you programmed this

Go to the dual rates / expo page, under the "model" tab, change the switch to switch "E" and then move the switch to each of the positions and programme as much movement as you want.

It's exactly the same as a usual dual rate setting, except you change the switch allocation to "E"

Originally Posted by boiko

Has there been any word on a refresh for the Aurora 9 - ie. Aurora 9 V2 or maybe Aurora 10..?

It's been out quite awhile now without any significant update to the current model.

Thanks,
-mike-

According to a previous post (rumor), in this thread, there is supposed to be a new Transmitter being announced at the Nuremberg International Toy Fair which opens on the 30th of January.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ostcount=23115

They did not mention what year the announcement would be though

Originally Posted by boiko

Has there been any word on a refresh for the Aurora 9 - ie. Aurora 9 V2 or maybe Aurora 10..?

It's been out quite awhile now without any significant update to the current model.

Thanks,
-mike-

There are some rumors that Hitec will present the new TX at the Nuernberg "Spielwarenmesse" starting January 30th 2013. Hitec's booth will be in pavilion 7A at A-159. Have a look here : http://www.spielwarenmesse.de/online.../gelaendeplan/

Juergen

I have not read all 23000 posts. And a quick search brought up a lot of related stuff but not what I need.


I fly a Futaba 9C. I am a club instructor. Is there a buddy cord that will allow an A9 to work with my 9C in order for me to support new members with A9s or who wish to buy A9s? I hate to direct them away from this great radio because I can't link to it with my radio.

I presume this cord, if it exists, would also work with the Optic 6 Sport, Eclipse 7 Pro as well as the A9.

I have Futaba to Hitec buddy cords that worked with the old Hitec radios, but nothing that works with the current crop.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

is there an internal fuse for the aurora9? i was flying this morning without issue, went to go turn my radio on this afternoon to set up a plane and the radio beeped twice instead of just once when asking if i want to transmit. The radio wouldnt connect and the red and blue lights were flashing really fast. Turned the radio off and then back on and now the module shows no lights and it wont power up at all.

Originally Posted by aeajr

I have not read all 23000 posts. And a quick search brought up a lot of related stuff but not what I need.
I fly a Futaba 9C. I am a club instructor. Is there a buddy cord that will allow an A9 to work with my 9C in order for me to support new members with A9s or who wish to buy A9s? I hate to direct them away from this great radio because I can't link to it with my radio.
I presume this cord, if it exists, would also work with the Optic 6 Sport, Eclipse 7 Pro as well as the A9.
I have Futaba to Hitec buddy cords that worked with the old Hitec radios, but nothing that works with the current crop. Thanks for any help you can provide.

1. I have not read all 23000 posts
No need to ever read all 23231 posts in this thread because many posts are simply repetitive.
All FAQ from this and other Aurora threads world wide are compiled and amalgamated daily under the FAQ page link below.

2. Crosspost Manufacturers forum answered
"Yes.
The 6 Pin DIN connector is included in the full package and details of a RTU mini square adapter are included,
together with a schematic for DIY, under:
Hitec Aurora 9 - Trainer / Buddy system Master & Slave function Set-up. - & Data Transfer A9<>A9 etc.
- Also covers Eclipse 7 Pro & other Hitec RCD transmitters.

ex Hitec USA Support Forum Sticky:
Aurora 9, AFHSS Spectra Modules, Optima Transceivers, Minima Receivers
& Telemetry - FAQ & Undocumented Features
- Mixes, Setups, Tips. {Individual Links often updated}

Alan T.
Alan's Hobby, Model & RC FAQ Web Links

Originally Posted by shadow102

is there an internal fuse for the aurora9?
i was flying this morning without issue, went to go turn my radio on this afternoon to set up a plane and the radio beeped twice
instead of just once when asking if i want to transmit.
The radio wouldnt connect and the red and blue lights were flashing really fast.
Turned the radio off and then back on and now the module shows no lights and it wont power up at all.

No fuse as such.
. Aurora 9 - Off/On Switch problem or Screen does not Display?
- A9 Auto Saves (flash) each session's programming & trim changes on shutdown.
Allow time to complete task before switching on again.

Suggest
1. Remove module check for any loose pins and refit which will also wipe the pins.
2. Remove battery, cycle switch, refit battery and retry system operation.
3. Given that battery is fully charged and system fails to operate, email service direct:
Hitec Warranty & Service - homepage.
Note: Hitec USA only services North/South America and Canada.
"Hitec USA customer service department is available Monday through Friday*
from 7am- 4:30 pm Pacific time. Reach us at 858.748.8440 or
service@hitecrcd.com any time you have a question"
• If you are from a country that is outside North and South America, please contact the
Hitec distributor in your country for service.

ex Hitec USA Support Forum Sticky:
Aurora 9, AFHSS Spectra Modules, Optima Transceivers, Minima Receivers
& Telemetry - FAQ & Undocumented Features
- Mixes, Setups, Tips. {Individual Links often updated}

Alan T.
Alan's Hobby, Model & RC FAQ Web Links

I got this radio a little over a month ago and now have crashed two of my heli's. Both times there was a total loss of response from the heli and throttle hold did nothing, motor kept running and the drive belt started to smoke before I got the battery unplugged (my main gear is belt driven) I took it in the basement plugged the battery in and throttle hold is working fine
I am at the point where I am afraid to fly any more with this radio. I got rid of my 9CHF to switch to 2.4 GHz but there is a little buyers remorse setting right now

I now have a working wireless adapter for my A9 for use with the RealFlight simulator! Total cost was ~$15!



Parts:
1. Minima Compatible 5ch RX $13.13 @ hobbyking
2. Molex Picoblade Lead $1.20 @ hobbyking
3. 1K Resistor $1.19 @ radio shack
4. Heatshrink (laying around)
5. Hookup wire (laying around)
6. Interlink Controller (comes with RealFlight sim)
7. Interlink Cable (comes with RealFlight sim)

Tools:
1. Soldering Iron
2. Multimeter (to check some voltages)
3. Heat gun (for heat shrink tubing)


Step 1: Prepare the Interlink to send 5v out

The first step in this process is to do a minor modification of the interlink controller. Don't worry, this is simple and not scary. You'd have to think of a way to make this break the interlink.

This is to install a wire from the USB 5v power to the trainer port connector on an unused pin. This will directly power the RX, so no other connections are required.

First, open up the interlink with the 4 screws on the back. Next, pick up the board sitting on top (it's not screwed down at all) that holds the trainer port connector.

Solder the hookup wire to pin #1 on the back of this board. This pin will contain the USB 5v output.



Next, solder the other end of this wire to the 5v terminal on the main board of the interlink where the input USB cable connects. Be careful here not to make any unintentional connections. You don't want to short any terminals here!



Now, put the interlink back together and button it up.


Step 2: Disassemble the Interlink cable end

The interlink cable with my RealFlight version (5.5) comes with an interlink cable that is in 2 pieces. The first piece is longer, and has the Futaba type trainer connector on one end, and a 1/8" (3.5mm) male mono connector at the other end. The second piece has a 1/8" (3.5mm) female mono connector at one end, and another Futaba style trainer connector. We want to leave the longer interlink cable intact so we can still use it for direct connection to the A9 if that's ever necessary again. The other part of the cable is only used if you're connecting up a Futaba TX to the interlink, which I'm going to assume you don't care about here.

So the first thing to do is to pop the back of the Futaba style connector off. On the front side there are 2 gaps hiding tabs. Stick a little screwdriver in there (carefully), and release those tabs. The backshell should rotate up and off of the connector.



Once that's off, you can see the 2 wires soldered onto the pins of the connector. Note: The above pic is for the long side of the interlink cable, which has different connections than the short side.

Push up the loosely fitted heat shrink on these wires, and then use the soldering iron to remove them from the connector.





Step 3: Soldering up the connector

Now we need to solder up the Molex Picoblade lead that connects our clean connector to the Minima RX.

The finished lead will need to be secure in the 6 pin connector, which means you will need to add some layers of heat shrink to it to make it clip closed securely. For me, 3 layers of shrink made a really good fit. Do this now, if your shrink won't fit over the little molex connector (otherwise you can do it later).



Next, solder the molex lead to the connector. Pin 1 is the power (red), pin 2 is ground (brown), and pin 6 is the signal (yellow). For reference, the pin numbers are molded into the connector right by the pins. See the above pic to see what this looks like.

Now, here's a tricky bit. Thanks to Simon Chambers for this fix. Some of the early minima 5ch RXs have a bug that makes them go into bind mode as soon as they are plugged into the interlink via the above wiring connections. The fix requires hooking up a 1K resistor to the signal and ground pins. Do this now, being careful not to connect anything you don't want connected with blobs of extra solder (that never happens to me ). Newer RXs may not require this fix. Alternatively, Simon is offering to update the code on the older RXs to the latest stuff if you send them to him (small shipping fee involved).



The above connector is ready to button up!

Step 4: Binding

See the instructions for the minima compatible receiver for this.

Step 5: Cleaning up

I used a tad of hot glue to attach the RX to the lower part of the finished connector back shell. I intentionally left the top part clear so I would have some place to grip it to remove it from the interlink.

The finished product:


It works great! Now to sneak my laptop into the office and hook it up to the big projector in the conference room for some practice at lunch...

Hey folks,

I'm scratch building a 4' flying wing that has 4 top and bottom split elevons/duckerons (giant drag rudders). Think B-2 Bomber drag rudders as your main control surfaces on a combat wing, capable of not only mirroring elevator and roll inputs, but splitting for coordinated turns and air brakes.

Can the A9 mix that without having to use v-tail mixers y-harnessed together? I have my wing setup as 2aile + 2flaps so far and here's my receiver's configuration (perspective looking at the nose):

Ch 1: Top Right
Ch 2: Top Left
Ch 3: Throttle
Ch 4: Bottom Right
Ch 5: Bottom Left

Just messing around, I added four P. Mixes to get the both the top and bottom elevons to mirror one another but also still split away from one another upon rudder input. My problem is, when I rudder one direction, the elevons will split at the appropriate side, but the opposing wing's elevons will try to crush together.

How do I mix the A9 to tell the opposing wing side NOT to compress (either Ch 1 & Ch 4 or Ch 2 + Ch 5)?

Here's an example of what I'm trying to accomplish within the radio without having to add two additional v-tail mixers:

Split Elevons!(DUCKERONS!) Quak!.mp4 (4 min 51 sec)

Any assistance or a link to a model profile would be greatly appreciated.