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I am going to try Align 450 struts as they won't need much modding to work. |
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Well I've tried it with the cap off - hard to tell if it makes a difference, as having the cap on makes any wobble more obvious due to the diameter.
Played with the flybar a bit and from the following videos, it seems to be pretty straight and level now compared to yesterday's vids. Light quality wasn't very good I'm afraid, but I think you can see that the flybar looks OK. Put new blades on - no difference whatsoever.
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- a screw which holds it onto the main shaft, which I managed to tighten about 1/4 turn. - the pin through the flybar, which is fine and - the pin which goes through the main shaft and connects the blade holders, which I think is the one. This flew out and nearly lodged in my forehead yesterday when I tried checking the flybar without the blades on (I know not to do THAT again ). It was still perfectly straight and is now back where it should be. So what do the expert eyes say? On the basis of the flybar seeming to track OK, can I assume that maybe the cap is a bit lopsided and safely fly again, or do I need to somehow check the main shaft? If a video from a different angle with better lighting might help with further analysis, please let me know and I'll post one up. Thanks again for all the help guys, and Happy Flying Tigg Edit: like this maybe?
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Last edited by tiggertoo1962; Jan 08, 2013 at 07:02 AM.
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Hello everyone. I'm new on the RC group site.
I just collected my MJX F645 last weekend. I am still taking it step by step and tuning the swashplate and trim settings on the controller. I am using Mode 4. I know it will take some time for me (my first heli since playing with a tiny micro). I am having a problem with the tail rotor. When I first started up, the Main / Tail rotors started simultaneously. I had some left/right shifting before takeoff (slowly ramping the throttle). I toppled over a few times (4 or 5 times) before takeoff and the motors stopped as expected. Now after restart or full radio reconnect, the tail rotor does not start when the Main starts (usually at 4-5% Throttle), even when throttle ramp up to say 20%. I can get the tail going with a finger touch of tail rotor. The tail cannot seem to overcome the starting torque required to roll through that first gear tooth meshing. Tail rotor seems to run fine unless I the use rudder stick and tail slows to a stop; then the tail can't restart for itself unless it gets a kick start (not always practical!). The notchiness of the tail rotor gears seem the same as at original (good) start up. Is the gearbox stiffness adjustable? Could the gearbox or blade shaft or motor shaft be damaged after just a few ground level topples that stop the tail / main blades? I Did try a little WD40 and then light Royal Purple Synthetic lube on gear box and tail rotor shaft. Sorry for the long first post. Please advise from your great experience guys. Thanks. |
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If everything runs smooth, check the gyro on the pcb to make sure it is not broken loose. |
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Take the blade and cover off the tail motor and run up in your hand watching the mesh of pinion gear with main gear, see if pinion wobbles. Mine was bent from factory and had to straighten.
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Not really knowing the heli too well yet I can only say that it seemed to fly OK, and I don't see anything obviously wrong when it's in hover. If any of your more experienced eyes notice anything untoward I'd appreciate it if you let me know. Meantime I'm quite happy to fly the heli as is, since I now have #2 on the way and, should anything happen to Big Bird here (The Wife has insisted I name them all so she can follow what I'm talking about ) I can always use him for spares. Thanks again Tigg
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tiggertoo1962
Forgot to mention. Any missing main gear teeth? |
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All teeth present and correct sir! Tend to agree with you about the clicking now I listen again. Didn't have a healthy one to compare it to so probably convinced myself there was nothing to it. Hard to be objective when you just wanna get back in the air . Trying to visualise your tip with the wire, but I'm either too dumb or still too tired from the night shifts. Think you could be just a bit more specific about exactly how it works (placement of the wire? length of the "L"? wire running inside the shaft or outside for a comparison? where the paint comes into the equation?). If you have it, either a vid or a diagram of the test would be great... or a link if you've seen this somewhere else. Thanks once again bud Fin |
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take off the blades first. tell me if ya can see what i mean and I sent you a message too Frank |
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The "white dot" end of the wire is placed over the center line of the rotor shaft. You can then observe the shaft movement from on top (looking down) and from the side. Of course ensure that both the wire and the helicopter are static and can't move at all. I attached a chopper to a piece of one meter square plywood that had a wood frame on top from which the wire was suspended. The wood was held by two bags of concrete mix I had in the garage. Probably overkill, but nothing moved! Click on picture to see text.
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