Originally Posted by X3n0

any tips on how to avoid tip stalls ?

Mine's prone to this. Don't let the speed drop when too close to the ground....

I sometimes experience that too. Most of the times i just make sure my Glider is level and not pointing up all the time...No up in the literal sense but up like it's in a Climbing look. i try and keep my nose down or level..Also Fstfwd is exactly right..he hit it right on the nose....that's what do now..i Utilize my Rudder and Aileron at the same time, that way the Glider doesn't lean over while turning..it sort of stays level...all those little things prevent it from tip stalling....Now if you landing and going really slow, then of course that's possible....At what point does it tip stall...only when your turning? going low and slow? trying to Harrier it down giving it full up elevator?
need just a Taaab bit more info...

Originally Posted by X3n0

yes one wing drops and I spin in with no control....won't doing rudder and opp aileron be cross controlling which also leads to stalls ?

Lets say your gliding (power off) turning left you want to keep level as possible,so you give some left rudder now you start turning but left wing starts to drop,so now give just a touch of right aileron along with left rudder to keep it level, if you choose to just use aileron to turn you need to have enough speed to make the turn without stalling.I found with my Phoenix glider it does the same thing,have to keep level if in a gliding turn or keep speed up

Two of my three big crashes were low altitude tip stalls. It took me awhile to figure out what the minimum speed was when coming in for landing. At first it was a bit counter intuitive to have to speed up as I got closer to the ground. I actually just did it again last week, but fortunately it was only about 3' up so instead of rolling and diving, the wingtip just hit the ground and stopped the plane without any damage.

Originally Posted by Bugman Jeff

Two of my three big crashes were low altitude tip stalls. It took me awhile to figure out what the minimum speed was when coming in for landing. At first it was a bit counter intuitive to have to speed up as I got closer to the ground. I actually just did it again last week, but fortunately it was only about 3' up so instead of rolling and diving, the wingtip just hit the ground and stopped the plane without any damage.

Yep ! I come in under power ! Dive down about 4 feet off the dirt,get her level cut power,hit flaps (if you have them) and flare just a bit with elevator. Keep it level,if you run out of room power up and go around and cut power a little sooner. never try to turn while that close to dirt and no power , you can use rudder to make minor adjustments

I've augered this thing in everytime I flew and I got so depressed and disgusted I put it away this summer. Ok armed with the above tips I am going to try again !

Originally Posted by X3n0

I've augered this thing in everytime I flew and I got so depressed and disgusted I put it away this summer. Ok armed with the above tips I am going to try again !

Three of my first four flights resulted in crashes that required major reassembly. After each, I collected the pieces and let them sit for a few months before I was motivated enough to fix it again. Once you get the hang of it though, it flies like a dream

This discussion is very interesting! Because I would have answered that it is almost impossible to tip stall here!? Maybe I did my lesson in the beginning, practicing low speed flying on good hight. And also always having alot of flaps down. That makes the inner part of the wing stall first and she will fall through nicely instead of tip stall, I think. I did look back on my vimeo video and yes, I never turns close to landing... On the video with flaps landing you can see several times that she just falls through when stalling. But I also always have down compensation on elevator when braking and that keeps the speed up. But in the beginning I had no flaps!?... But I have what Futaba calls flaperon, but then turning the ailerons upwards, reducing the attac angle on that part of the wing, probably making the inner part stalling first anyway? And with butterfly (flaps down elevator up) I think it is very safe. Is it not?
But you with only original tx/rx cant flip aileron up. But maybe adjust them a little up as standard?!
BG

Tip stalls are caused solely by airspeed (or lack there of).
When we use the example of a left hand gliding turn:
The right wing accelerates or remains at a constant velocity; increasing or maintaining it's lift characteristics from straight and level flight.
The left wing decellerates to a point that all lift is lost on that wing. The longer the wings, the greater the difference in velocity. With our 2.5Meter wingspan this differential is very great vs. a smaller 1.2M glider. The tighter the turn, the more exacerbated this behavior presents it's self.

To prevent tip stalling in a turn, as you initiate you turns with rudder only, give a touch of down elevator to accelerate the sailplane slightly, thus keeping the inside wing at a constant velocity. The outside wing will accelerate by the down elevator input along with the difference in turning radius, so a small amount of right aileron can be input to coordinate your turnand keep the wings a bit more level. This will maintain your vertical lift and prevent a side-slip loss of altitude. This right aileron input (cross sticking) is spoiling the lift of the outer wing slightly deducing it's lift to match more closely the inner wing.

Cheers,
Brian

So i got a new 4s 2600mah 50C lipo for my nitroplanes 3s model diamond . I have yet to build this plane,(been flying the banana hobby 4s) but the stock battery is way way lighter and smaller (of course as it is a 3s) So this bring up the question of COG with a heavier lipo. anyone changed from the stock 3s to a 4s and if so what did you have to do to get COG correct ? Thanks for any input folks...

Fastfwd,
I think I remember reading earlier in this thread that inside there is some lead (or something) weight under the plywood, just behind the motor on the 3S version.

You can remove this and put your 4S pack in there.

Cheers,
Brian

Originally Posted by TooSLow2Care

Fastfwd,
I think I remember reading earlier in this thread that inside there is some lead (or something) weight under the plywood, just behind the motor on the 3S version.

You can remove this and put your 4S pack in there.

Cheers,
Brian

Sweet ! I seem to remember reading something about that thanks !

So it was around 2 degrees F,and 96 percent humidity here in Idaho, i waited for it to warm a bit and when it got clear up to 10 deg F
I took my diamond 2500 out for a flight and froze my fingers in short time. And by the way,at these temperatures the CA glue gets hard and stuff wont hold just the velcro holding on canopy ,but it could be disastrous ! Video to follow,but its done with a go-pro so i tried to keep diamond in close.But even then when it is uploaded to utube looks even farther away ! I have got to get a good video camera with zoom !

VTS 01 1 (7 min 53 sec)

Cold, yes! But the dense air makes the D-2500 fly even better!!!

another question....assuming my esc is adequate (HV-110 !) and my prop remains the same (Aeronaut CAM 14x8) then going from 3s to 4s should be ok right ?