Originally Posted by jamesrini

same thing happen to me and i was able to pancake into weeds with no damage after a few secs of full throttle the motor would quit and then the 3 beeps from the esc,
my solution was the esc needed an update with a certain version there are weird spikes happening causing the esc to think it was over amped or something,

Interesting, was it also an ice 75

The shattering is from the loss of a phase. So look for a bad solder joint on the wires/connectors going to the motor. This shattering will fry an esc as it will spike current because the motor is now stalled. If the esc doesn't cut off in time with overcurrent protection it smokes it. Sounds like what took you out of the air is what just killed your esc. Again look for a bad connection, solder joint, broken spot in the motor leads. Anything that would not allow proper current flow to one of the phases to the motor

Originally Posted by Inverted-I-Fly

Interesting, was it also an ice 75

yea i belive so it was on my 51 slick, i kept on thinking that batts were no good and it was sagging causing the lvc but after numerous diff batts they all did the same. did an update and all is fine now

Originally Posted by losifanatic

The shattering is from the loss of a phase. So look for a bad solder joint on the wires/connectors going to the motor. This shattering will fry an esc as it will spike current because the motor is now stalled. If the esc doesn't cut off in time with overcurrent protection it smokes it. Sounds like what took you out of the air is what just killed your esc. Again look for a bad connection, solder joint, broken spot in the motor leads. Anything that would not allow proper current flow to one of the phases to the motor

that sound like exactly what happen, I've already dropped the esc in the mail, and the motor leads look good, probably somewhere on the esc

Originally Posted by Inverted-I-Fly

that sound like exactly what happen, I've already dropped the esc in the mail, and the motor leads look good, probably somewhere on the esc

In this situation, I would say (based on talking to a lot of people in the industry, many who service ESCs) that it's a 99% chance that it was a cold solder joint on one of the bullets. (and thus, the scenario that losi spelled out above)

When this happens, you should always try putting on new bullets and trying to re-create the problem before sending it back.

I hope for your sake that wasn't the problem, but be prepared for the tech from Castle to tell you that and charge you the service fee to put new bullets on.

Just my 2 cents.

Losi's diagnosis sounds more like it if your esc fried. Mine was basically the esc thinking it was being over amped when it wasn't and shutting down

I talked to Dan of Microdan motors this summer on a similar issue I had with a small high kv Motrofly motor that smoked in the air. He told me that if the motor/esc get out of phase, the voltage spikes from the nominal pack voltage to over 100,000v quickly and can quickly damage either the esc, motor, or both (ie. the dreaded white smoke) from excess heat. He said it could be caused from cold solder joints or from improper esc timing. He said if it screeches, immediately stop and try a higher esc timing setting, if it continues it's definately a wiring issue.

Wow I guess I learned something. I didn't think the destruction would happen that quickly but it certainly makes sense.

I just got a CC ICE 50 & 100, what timing settings should I use?
The ICE 50 will be used in my 48 Edge, Omega 130 on 3S.
The ICE 100 will be going on my 57 Extra, Motrolfly 4315-714 on 4S.

I don't want to run them on the wrong timing and let the smoke out!

Low timing for the motrolfly. Normal or high timing for the omega(used both with no issues)

Originally Posted by Bigster

Wow I guess I learned something. I didn't think the destruction would happen that quickly but it certainly makes sense.

Shuttering will ruin an esc very quickly. If you ever get it chop the throttle immediately

Originally Posted by losifanatic

Low timing for the motrolfly. Normal or high timing for the omega(used both with no issues)

Thank ya, sir!

Originally Posted by Inverted-I-Fly

Need some help diagnosing a problem

About 3 minutes into my maiden of my new 57" extra, the motor just quit, I was about 20 feet high with no where to go so I ran into a mound of dirt that flipped the plane over. Good news is the Xoar prop took most of the jolt so luckily the only damage was one destroyed wheel pant and the prop, motor box looks good.

When I got to the plane the castle exc was beeping 3 times?

Before I flew I watt tested the motor (motrolfly 4315-480 on 6s) 15x6 xoar, and got 43A at 919 watts, ESC is an ICE 75, I figured it was a bit under propped, but fine for a trim flight

After a few flight on the Slick I decided to test the setup on the bench so I put on a 15x8, put on my watt meter, and ran it up, seem OK, 58A at 1220watts, ran it for about a minute on the bench and all of a sudden the motor started to stutter like the timing was off (like hacker esc's do at startup sometimes) and then a small magic puff of white smoke from the esc. I unplug everything.

Any ideas?

Oh and now my powerlog 6S watt meter does not work

I've had that same problem before too.

Just follow the instructions for the esc and set fixed end points.

If you have it set to auto-calibrate (default) and don't go through that 4 second run-up sequence every time, it sees your first 4 second throttle position as 100%. So full throttle is more and will over amp and reset the esc.

Setting fixed end points fixed that problem for me. It also makes flying a lot easier. You just plug the battery in and go!

Do that for all your castle stuff and you'll be happier for the effort!

If that doesn't fix it, you might have a hot servo that's kicking off your bec which I believe gives the same reset and 3-beep indication.

Hope this helps,

Fred

Originally Posted by RotorJockey

I've had that same problem before too.

Just follow the instructions for the esc and set fixed end points.

If you have it set to auto-calibrate (default) and don't go through that 4 second run-up sequence every time, it sees your first 4 second throttle position as 100%. So full throttle is more and will over amp and reset the esc.

Setting fixed end points fixed that problem for me. It also makes flying a lot easier. You just plug the battery in and go!

Do that for all your castle stuff and you'll be happier for the effort!

If that doesn't fix it, you might have a hot servo that's kicking off your bec which I believe gives the same reset and 3-beep indication.

Hope this helps,

Fred

I run fixed endpoints on all my castle esc, and low timing for my motrolfly motors and a separate Bec for the servos, so it is not the set-up. The esc didn't just shut off, it smoked, it's done

Going to be replacing the Robart Hinges in my 89 Slick, would it be best to plug the old holes then re drill or is it OK to use the existing holes.