No Problemo Jeff. We all need to vent form time to time. Seems that it wasn't a good night for Jeffs in general. I tripped on some stuff last night and wiped out too. No major damage except to my pride. It was close though. If I hadn't been able to catch myself using the table I"d have done some major damage to my ham string. It was sore but felt a lot better when I got up this morning.

On another note... This is strange to see all the reminders about the time change. Snce I"m now in Az we don't have to do it. Kind of weird feeling in a way.

Yeah GDon, that would have been great to have those guys around.

On the laser cut/burned edge thing. It's best to lightly sand that burned edges before gluing anyway. The laser cutter sort of cauterizes the wood in those areas and glue often won't penetrate like it should.

Jeff the ...younger? (Did we establish that yet?)

It's all part of getting older. I hate it when you wake up sore in the morning. I'm talking about "car wreck" sore for no apparent reason. I do that a lot.

I hate programming a tx. I know I can learn it and do it, I just have some kind of aversion to sitting down and learning it. That's why I had my computer bh Randy around. I'd just have him get everything mixed and operating then fine tune it to what I want. He set up 3 or 4 different layouts and I just copy to a new model and tweak.

As for a new model I set everything to TLAR, then set dual rates for about 1/2-3/4 of those throws. Throw it a few times to make sure the elevator is close to neutral then launch. Once you get up high feel everything out. Do that a few times and once I have it set then I dump the low setting so I don't accidentally change something in the air and not realize what's going on. But, that's just me. Once I get everything where it feels good I don't change rates.

Not a woodie, but....

I asked in the "Sorry Error" thread, but I'm asking here, too. See, my Radian went in slightly out of radio control, and the prop was running even though the throttle was off that's not the issue. I fixed that (needed re-binding).

The problem is the nut that the prop is screwed onto. The set screw made itself a new groove, and now the nut spins freely. Adding insult to injury is that the nut is trapped on the motor shaft somehow, probably by the turnings made by the set screw. Arrrrrgh!

Here's the real question: can I change the motor shaft? How the $&#% do I get the nut off, if it's even worth the effort. Does it matter that the motor smells of ozone? (a sign of fried circuitry, but maybe nothing to a motor, I don't know)

In a nutshell? Now what do I do?



STUCK:

That's an everyday thing in our shop Katie! can you get a (largest possible) pliers onto the shaft behind the screw? Maybe whittle out some clearance on the plastic, leave at least 1/2 diameter of plastic surrounding the screw's countersinks, and you'll have enough structure for the mounts.
Pry in 90 degree segments- 'walking' around the shaft until freedom is cried.
file the prop shaft, and deburr the Id of the screw- that would be either a 3 mm- .120/ or 2 mm- .07875( Iknow that one) drill being used to deburr the spot causing troubles. remount and have @ it!
Johnny

Referencing the photo below. Any idea where I can get a pack like that? I think they are 1250mah 4/5 sub C. Lots of people sell those. But the configuration is not common. Vendors? Custom pack? Can't make one. My soldering skills are awful!!

Try Radical RC:
www.radicalrc.com

But cap'n! The nut is nae jammed on the shaft, it is trrrapped on it, spinnin' freely, but nary to come off.

When the screw was forced around the shaft, it acted like a lathe, and cut a ring all the way around the shaft. That much I can see. I presume that the screw acted like a dull lathe tool, and pushed the shaft material around instead of cutting it, making a raised doughnut that prevents the adaptor from being removed. I can't get any leverage on the ring, and the adaptor spims easily around. I can't even get it to jam to start to pry it off. :angryface:

You can't back off the set screw, correct?

If you're not worried about ruining the prop nut use a Dremel and cutoff wheel. Slice down through the nut and into the center of the set screw deep enough to get a straight slot onto the set screw, then use a screwdriver narrow enough to do the job. I'm guessing you only need to back the screw off a tiny bit to clear the groove.

Or, drill the set screw and use the appropriate size Easy Out. Probably less likely to succeed this way though. I imagine that set crew is hardened.

Don't know about replacing the motor shaft. I know it's easily done o some motors but not familiar with what you have.

Originally Posted by gdjsky01

Referencing the photo below. Any idea where I can get a pack like that? I think they are 1250mah 4/5 sub C. Lots of people sell those. But the configuration is not common. Vendors? Custom pack? Can't make one. My soldering skills are awful!!

Change to Lithium? If not order through Radical RC as Don S suggested. If you have a Batteries Plus or Battery Source locally they can build one but...............if they don't have REAL, clearly labelled Sanyo cells keep walking.

Originally Posted by seanpcola

You can't back off the set screw, correct?

If you're not worried about ruining the prop nut use a Dremel and cutoff wheel. Slice down through the nut and into the center of the set screw deep enough to get a straight slot onto the set screw, then use a screwdriver narrow enough to do the job. I'm guessing you only need to back the screw off a tiny bit to clear the groove.

Or, drill the set screw and use the appropriate size Easy Out. Probably less likely to succeed this way though. I imagine that set crew is hardened.

Don't know about replacing the motor shaft. I know it's easily done o some motors but not familiar with what you have.

The set screw has been removed. It is out, and the adaptor is still stuck.

Here is a quick and dirty diagram of what I see. The to picture is a normal shaft, with a little mark where the set screw sits. The second is what I can see through the set screw hole. I did not draw in the supposed raised "capture" ring, but I'm sure something is there.

....

Originally Posted by gdjsky01

Referencing the photo below. Any idea where I can get a pack like that? I think they are 1250mah 4/5 sub C. Lots of people sell those. But the configuration is not common. Vendors? Custom pack? Can't make one. My soldering skills are awful!!

Kennedy composites has them, http://www.kennedycomposites.com/batteries.htm

Have you tried or thought of a small wheel/bearing puller?

Originally Posted by ronrange

Have you tried or thought of a small wheel/bearing puller?

I never knew they existed. I can't say that I have a full-scale (car) bearing puller that will work.

I can say that jamming the pliers between teh white housing and the adapter and using the housing as a fulcrum did not budge the adapter.

What a bummer- kick back with dexter, he always has answers!
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/puller_fo...s_782_prd1.htm