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Oct 27, 2012, 08:31 PM
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UlteriorModem's Avatar
Well I am greatfull for the gift, regardless many thinks for the images. Gives me some idea but I can see where it would be easy to burn clean through a wire.
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Oct 27, 2012, 08:54 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44
Well, that's kind've why I said .............
Oh, never mind.
Haha miss that. But which is a better set up if dont talk about price ?
Oct 28, 2012, 04:43 AM
Earthbound Skyhound
StarHopper44's Avatar
Having flown only one of the two, as I think the vast majority of us have, I can't really answer that with any authority.
From an opinion-based perspective, much depends on which particular plane the crap-shoot gives you vis-a-vis airframe true-ness, ie the pervasive swerve-at-speed phenomenom endemic to both models as opposed to, if you're lucky, one that flies straight & true as it should. My call would be, six of one & half dozen of the other if you're talking about plane-to-plane comparison.

My recommendation: Decide for yourself if you want to buy from a company with "got your money now screw you" business plan, or an American based company who demonstrably cares about customer satisfaction beyond the sale and who bends over backwards to make you happy. Your call.
Oct 28, 2012, 08:48 AM
Lou
Lou
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by sookainian
Haha miss that. But which is a better set up if dont talk about price ?
They are essentially the same plane. You will do well with either one.

You may want to stiffen the elevators with packing tape or with a CF strip and packing tape. There is some performace increase by adding a 10x6 Aeronaut Cam folding prop.

The plane is a warmliner made of foam and for the money it flys very well. I have the Blaze and have been quite happy with it.
Oct 28, 2012, 08:51 AM
Registered User
UlteriorModem's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Obake
If that won't work, then you could mount at 6 o'clock and pull the wires straight back and up thru the ciruclar opening in the tray.
Thanks for the image it was worth a thousand words. The leads cannot be run at 6 oclock as the leads exit the motor between a screw set and one of the screws is at 6 oclock. I acutlly tried that.

The wood tray is missing / broken from the fuse I have but I have the part somewhere. I will probably add it once I get the motor / esc installed. Speaking of ESC's is 30 amp enough?

A quick question about the motor & firewall. Is there any further reinforcement of the firewall or is it just bolted to the plastic 'bulkhead'?
Oct 28, 2012, 09:03 AM
Lou
Lou
Registered User
Here are a few pictures ... the nut is a 10mm nut. The motor is mounted straight to the plastic firewall.

Here is the link to the plane on Towers:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXACFW&P=ML

As for the ESC, I can not find my original ESC to be certain what came with the plane. I changed mine out to a 54 amp Thunderbird early on. However, based on what I know, as long as you stay with the stock motor and a 3s battery, a 30 amp ESC should work fine.
Last edited by Lou; Feb 16, 2014 at 09:09 AM.
Oct 28, 2012, 09:12 AM
Registered User
UlteriorModem's Avatar
Perfect! Thanks !

I actually have a 10x6 folding prop, collet, spinner from esprit models I plan to use. I had to drill out the shaft hole but that was easy. The spinner is just slightly smaller than the diamater of the front bulkhead and looks pretty good actually and leaves the cooling ducts wide open.

I also have some of the original blades from the kit that could be swapped out for the CF 10x6 blades if need be.
Oct 28, 2012, 09:24 AM
Lou
Lou
Registered User
Good deal, glad the pics helped. Esprit is a great place to deal with. I think nearly every folder/spinner I own came from them.

I found my instructons that came with the plane, no mention of the ESC. I am %99 certain that a 30 amp ESC will do fine.

I would suggest adding some CF to the elevator, as shown in the picture. I grooved the area with a dremel router bit ( manually ), just deep enough to accept the fiber. I then put packing tape on both sides of the elevator. This will stiffen up the surface and give you more authority in the air. These elevators are the largest weakness of this plane.

You may have to gouge out a little bit of foam where the servo / housing sits. This will permit the servo and the retainer/housing to sit proper.

This plane flys great. It has nearly zero dihedral so you have to be on the sticks all the time. Most pilots that complain about this plane are likely to have low time on this type of wing.
Last edited by Lou; Feb 16, 2014 at 09:09 AM.
Oct 28, 2012, 10:28 AM
Registered User
UlteriorModem's Avatar
The previous owner added the CF strips already

I have a cheapie 18A ESC but dont think that will cut the mustard as they say.

Oh no problem with 'being on the sticks' I have a few years experience behind me
Oct 28, 2012, 10:36 AM
Lou
Lou
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by UlteriorModem
The previous owner added the CF strips already

I have a cheapie 18A ESC but dont think that will cut the mustard as they say.

Oh no problem with 'being on the sticks' I have a few years experience behind me


Just put my plane on the Power Analyzer. With the CAM 10x6 and the stock motor, it pulled 24 amps and produced 240 watts. That was on a LIPO that had %86 charge left in it. I would say that a 30amp ESC with a switching BEC would work fine.
Oct 28, 2012, 10:51 AM
Registered User
UlteriorModem's Avatar
Good to know, that actually is the exact setup I am going to run (Cam 10x6).

Thanks for all your help, now to scrounge a 30A ESC its the only missing piece!
Oct 28, 2012, 01:55 PM
Lou
Lou
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by UlteriorModem
Good to know, that actually is the exact setup I am going to run (Cam 10x6).

Thanks for all your help, now to scrounge a 30A ESC its the only missing piece!
Your welcome! Enjoy the plane, it is fun little plane to fly.
Nov 01, 2012, 01:53 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44
Goin' by my notes, the only diffs besides the decalry are:
» Blaze »»»»»»»»»»»»»»»» Dyn-S
» Motor: 3520 - 1130Kv »»» 35xx - 820Kv
» Prop: 10x6 Folder »»» 12x6.5 Folder
» The plastic plate that covers the V-Tail servos is different, or not present on the 'S'.
» Price: $129.99 w/Free Ship (Tower) vs $118.34 + $43.33 Shipping* from Hobbit Kong USA Warehouse.
Also:
»»»»»»»»»»»» Blaze »»»»»»»»»»»» Dynamic-S
» Elevators: No CF stiffener »»»»»» CF stiffener

Correction to motor specs - Ref this post: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=580
» Motor: 3520 - 1130Kv »»»»»»»»» 3520 - 920Kv

The higher kV and similar prop pitch should mean the Blaze will fly faster under full throttle - from the videos I have seen it seems noticably quicker than my Dyn-S. Based on SH's experiences, the down side of the Blaze's extra speed is V-tail flutter and loss of control surface authority.
Nov 01, 2012, 05:20 AM
Earthbound Skyhound
StarHopper44's Avatar
@maca:
By CF in elevators, do you mean in the horiz.stab portion or the elevator/control surface itself? Cuz there are rods in the stabs. They don't reach the full span of the cuts made for them, but they're there.

But I'm glad you mentioned the extra speed. Re the toxic side effects, one thing I'd wondered about is if perhaps a toned-down prop would help a lot of the handling problems. After all, what does higher max speed really help accomplish with this plane?? Other than better verticals, where elevator & roll input precision aren't as important, I don't see much by way of "need" for its speed.

Re the 'handling problems', I always think of the many reports saying "Mine handles fine, with no problems". Their planes obviously are made with the same foam, & came out of the same molds. I can't help but think many of those whose fly "just fine" are doing so at lower or 'cruise' throttle settings.

Of course it's a simple task to keep off the fully-pegged throttle condition, or even program in a maximum throttle throw if your Tx is capable & you aren't (heh heh)....but how many would do either. Certain planes require certain 'disciplines', and I believe for this plane in its stock form, that (ie only selectively using full throttle) is one of them.

My tuppence.
Nov 02, 2012, 07:21 AM
Low'n Slow is safest, right?
KaiWE's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44

Re the 'handling problems', I always think of the many reports saying "Mine handles fine, with no problems". Their planes obviously are made with the same foam, & came out of the same molds. I can't help but think many of those whose fly "just fine" are doing so at lower or 'cruise' throttle settings.

Of course it's a simple task to keep off the fully-pegged throttle condition, or even program in a maximum throttle throw if your Tx is capable & you aren't (heh heh)....but how many would do either. Certain planes require certain 'disciplines', and I believe for this plane in its stock form, that (ie only selectively using full throttle) is one of them.

My tuppence.
I fly my ST Models Blaze with a NTM35-30/1100Kv (40A speed control) spinning a 10x7 carbon prop - no modifications made to the wing/empennage at all.

Strange thing is that I have not experienced ANY problems flying it (all trim centered)...

I cannot say that I'm flying it at lower/cruise speeds either - I have logged ground speeds close to 100mph region after dives(EagleThree logger with GPS) on every flight after the motor swap...

Guess I'm just plain lucky then
Last edited by KaiWE; Nov 02, 2012 at 07:33 AM.


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