|
||
|
Quote:
how is it supposed to work? More Gain = more responsive tail? I also tried to upgrade the receiver firmware but despite of the software displaying a successfull message when I plug again the receiver still shows MiniCP 1.0... Is it how it works? |
|
|
||
|
|
||
|
Quote:
|
|
|
||
|
||
|
Quote:
There is a noticeable difference turning the pot CCW or CW. If you hold the heli in your hand and tilt it you will see the servos move less going CCW and more going CW. The gyros will stabile the heli more or less depending which direction you go on the pot. At the 6 o-clock position the servos hardly move at all. At the 5 o-clock position the servos move a lot. When you give quick stick inputs or do 3D you can notice a difference with different pot settings. At the position in my picture the heli is much more responsive as the gyros are not stabilizing the heli too much. Less Gain = more responsive heli. More Gain = less responsive heli. The tail response will stay the same no matter when you put the pot at. That is how the update works. It will still display MiniCP 1.0 even after you updated the firmware to v1.1. Tom |
|
|
||
|
||||||||
|
The "Flat" part of the EL/AIL Gyro Pot, can be considered as the "tail" of a "pointer/arrow". As indicated in the above diagram, the actual pointer of the arrow is at the opposite end of the Flat. The Pointer is difficult to physically see on the EL/AIL Gyro Pot because it is located inside the Pot. If you are using the Flat part of the EL/AIL Gyro Pot as an indication of where the Pot is "dialed", then you need to remember the Flat part indicates the "Tail" position which is actually 180 degrees from the Pointer.
Also, because of how most Pots are constructed, most Pots do NOT work over the entire range of a full turn. Most Pots only work in the 6 O-Clock portion/side of the range from 1 O-Clock to 11 O-Clock. Take a look at the Mini's Pot in the below photo: As pointed out, the EL/AIL Gyro's Pot's "Flat" is indicated correctly in the Photo; however, the "Pointer" is not accurately indicated by the "Red Dot" - the Red Dot should have been placed about 45 degrees CCW from where it is currently positioned. IMO, there is no need to paint a Red Dot to indicate Pointer's position as long as one remembers that the Flat is the "tail" of the Pointer, and the the Pointer is located exactly 180 degrees opposite from the Flat (i.e. the Pointer position is indicated by the "+'s" (plus's) "-" (minus) "arm" furthest away/opposite from the Flat). Also, as viewed in the above photo, the Pot's 11 O-Clock position is physically the Pot's top-left solder tab, and the Pot's 1 O-Clock position is physically the Pot's top-right solder tab. The way the EL/AIL Gyro Pot is wired in the Mini's RX, when the Pot's Pointer is located at 1-O-Clock (Flat is at 7-O-Clock), it is the Pot's MINimum setting (least amount of EL/AIL Gyro stabilization), and when the Pot's pointer is located at 11-O-Clock (Flat is at 5-O-Clock), it is the Pot's MAXimum setting (most amount of EL/AIL Gyro stabilization). The "midnight" portion of the Pot's range of travel is undefined - in fact, most Pots are damaged if the Pointer is forced past the 11 and 1 O-Clock end points (forcing the Pot's Pointer past the Pot's 11 and 1 O-Clock endpoint detents ("speed" bumps - if a person is careful while making adjustments they can feel the Pot's pointer hit the "speed" bumps when the pointer reaches its designed end of travel) bends the pointer up and off the Pot's resistive contact surface area. If my above description is correct, then the "Zero" position is incorrect in the below diagram: The "Zero" (minimum EL/AIL Gyro setting) is NOT actually located at the "midnight" position as shown in the above diagram, but is actually located at 1 O-Clock position as shown in the actual photo of the Pot. In other words, not only is there NO Gyro setting in the "Midnight" range between 11 and 1 O-Clock, but forcing the Pot's Pointer past the 11 and 1 O-Clock "speed" bump type of detents into the "Midnight" zone increases the likelihood of bending the Pointer and damaging the Pot. In the below post there are YouTube videos that show how Variable Resistive POTentiometers are constructed, and may help further explain the reasoning behind my above descriptions: Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
|
|||||||
|
Last edited by i812; Jun 19, 2013 at 04:03 AM.
Reason: removed "user added" text
|
|||||||
|
|
|
Good post. That is a lot of information.
Walkera put the red dot on the pot not me, I don't know why they did that. I can change flat spot to tail of the pointer on my picture and re-post it if that is what it should be. Tom |
|
Last edited by Tom Z; Oct 02, 2012 at 01:43 AM.
|
|
|
|
Hey guys,
Wondering if you can help me out with a few problems I'm having with my mini. I'm a bit of a noob so forgive my definitions if they're not correct 1. When I apply full forward and right cyclic (?) it almost seems like the swash is binding on the mainshaft. After I land and move the right stick forward and right the blades stop almost instantly. If I try to turn the blade while holding the stick there they won't move. I can't see the mainshaft being bent at all, heli isn't vibrating either. Is this normal? 2. Positive pitch pumps seem to be bogged down quite a bit, but the negative ones seem normal, I feel like this could be related to problem 1. Ideas? 3. I'm thinking I wanna do the brushless thing, mostly so I don't keep buying new motors, probably the C05 then? Best place to get the whole kit is probably chinesejade? anywhere else? Thanks guys |
|
|
|
|||
|
Quote:
A Servo has stripped internal Gear? Verify all 3 Servos freely move according to TX EL and AIL full range of motion commands. Below is a list of mod's most people think should be done to the Mini, and in that list there is a link to popular Servo Saver Mod(s): Quote:
|
||
|
Last edited by i812; Oct 02, 2012 at 07:04 PM.
|
||
|
||
|
Quote:
Servos move quite smoothly. If they were stripped there would a "dead spot" right? I don't have anything like that. |
|
|
||
|
|
|
Maybe disengage the Main Motor from the Main Gear, then try to reproduce the binding at the extreme stick movements while turning the Main Gear with your hand. When it starts to bind look for whatever it is that is stopping the Main Shaft from turning.
My Mini works fine, and the only thing that binds on it is if I try to move the Pitch Servos more than about 70% of their full travel capability, then the top 2 Links will bind with the Blade Grip Arms. Without some kind of Servo Saver Mod this type of Link binding will strip an internal Servo Gear (don't ask how I know ). But this type of binding wouldn't stop the Main Shaft from turning, it only stops the Servos from completing their full travel capability. The Walkera Mini User Manual states to have the Pitch Curve only go up to about 68% at full Throttle/Pitch stick movement, so if you follow their advice, then you shouldn't see this type of binding. |
|
Last edited by i812; Oct 03, 2012 at 06:09 AM.
|
|
|
|
Which Parts to Buy?
Hi,
i am new to 6-channel Heli and i have decied to go for the Mini CP. i am placing the order soon. i am flying a 4 chanel now. i would like to ask what are the parts that are most fragile and could need changing for a newbie to 6-channel, i would like to order the parts with the heli to minimize my grounding time. because i know for sure that i will break something what are the most parts the gets broken in a crash and which parts do you recommend i should get with the purchase of the heli? |
|
|
|
||
|
Quote:
The mini needs to be modded otherwise your going to have to stock up on spare servos or servo gears. As for spare parts, id say feathering shaft, main shaft, blade grip, tail booms , canopys, landing gear and servos. The servo saver & canopy / rx saver mods should always be done on a mini before the first flight. |
|
|
||
|
|
|
I've bounced off stuff in every possible direction many times and never had to replace the Feathering Shaft, Main Shaft, Blade Grips, or Canopy.
After incorporating the above Mods, the Tail Boom and Fin became my most common break items. To start off I'd get a spare Tail Assy without Motor, but for the longterm fixes I think most people make their own Tail Booms from CF Tube (1 m lengths available from RCFoam.com for about $2.50 + $8.00 shipping), and I "ghetto" fix the Tail Fin with scrap plastic until the Motor Holder is no longer repairable and doesn't hold the Motor anymore, and have to replace it with a new Tail Fin/Motor Holder. I bought a Genius V2 Orange Canopy because it is easier to see when flying indoors against a dark background. If you like crashing into hard stuff at full speed, then I'd also recommend getting a spare Collar, set of Links, and Landing Skid. Edit: I had forgotten that the stock Collar is only sold with the Main Shaft. To date, I've been able to fix stripped and cracked Collars with CA, others have posted of not having problem with permanently CA'ing the Collar to the Main Shaft, and there have been photos and discussions in this thread about Delrin and Metal substitute Collars that can be used. |
|
Last edited by i812; Oct 03, 2012 at 11:04 AM.
|
|
|
|
Tomorrow I am sending a money order out to helircstore for my minicp receiver. It has been long overdue! Since early May I have been waiting for the funds to replace my RX. I had a problem with a cracked circuit and could only get the heli working by bending the main board. And until finally the light died out for good less then 3 days after the problem first started.
So now 6 months later and I hope to get my heli running in the next few days. What has changed though? I remember that I was rewinding c05's for more power. I have a few strong motors that make the blades flap and flutter but battery life is less then 2 minutes. Are there batteries now that can give those motors the life they need? I have a few that run over 8 with more power then stock c05. The problem I was having with more power was the tail would not hold. Has this been fixed since I have been gone? Has someone figured out how to hold the tail solid without big money? Are we still at about the 7-8 minute flying mark? Or are we past that? Anything new? Any new mods, fixes that were unknown in May? Anyways, its nice to be back! I missed everything. |
|
|
|
||
|
hi mescaline
Welcome back. I missed your colorful posts Quote:
I think itsmillertime was the "king" of posting about different BL Motor conversions in this thread. If I remember correctly, in some of his last posts a couple months ago, he was measuring 8k rpm. I forgot all the details but remember talk about piggybacking FETs on an ESC. Yesterday, Tom Z started a new Review thread about a Plug-n-Play Astroid Dual Motor BL Kit for the Genius/Mini that is estimated to be available next week. I think Tom also has different BL Motor measurements posted in his other Mini Review thread. I think the most "Earth shaking" mod that has been posted during the last 6 months, has been the "Deviation" software hack for the Walkera Devo 8 TX. It's been reported that with the hack, it is capable of controlling all the old 2.4 GHz "legacy" Walkeras, new Devos, as well as DSM2 and DSMX Spektrum stuff, and has a 250 model memory capability. |
|
|
||
|
|
|
Its good to be back! Good to know that you are still around too I812! I very much like reading your posts, very informative!
About the elephant guy comment........it was about my name. My name is Doug Groves and if you search my name on google then the mystery will be solved. Funny picture, I flew in my living room and could never see the heli all that good. My kids had all this nail polish, and it worked! I can now see the heli. Itsmillertime sent me a pm in may asking if I was still alive, I just responded to him last night. Still waiting on that. 8000 rpm sounds real nice. He probably is using a hp06 since the co5 couldnt do that. The Deviation software was in its infancy when I had left. I am glad to see that it is finally available. Its too bad that it wont be for the Devo7 though since thats what I have. Tomz the review guy huh, he started with a review on the minicp and look at him now. Everyone is sending him things to try out. Lucky guy! The dual brushless system is what we need! I had posted a vid with the genius double brushless kit onto the minicp, its heavy! Glad to see we have something lighter. I really want to have a stable tail more than anything! One more thing, I want to again thank Bob at helircstore.com . I no longer have paypal(we were hacked and someone in India had tried to donate 3,000 dollars to themselves(they didnt get it though luckily!)) in which we used a greendot debit card through. So it denied me when I went to pay for the receiver. I had called Bob and he set one aside for me until I could send a money order. Our greendot is an issued Debit/Mastercard in my name and I emailed to ask why it couldnt be used. I had said that I was feeling anxious about flying and that a money order might take a few extra days. I received an email this morning telling me not to worry about the wait, he would send the receiver out today! I was floored! Great guy he is. He had sent me the double brushless upgrade kit for the genius for free on my first order with him. I had called about ordering a few things and we spoke for about 2 hours. It is so unusual to find genuine people these days! Anyways, glad to be back and I hope to contribute. see ya |
|
|
Thread Tools | |
Similar Threads | |||||
Category | Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Cool | World Smallest Lightest Indestructible 3D helicopter :Genius CP!! | DLY | Micro Helis | 9893 | Sep 15, 2020 11:05 AM |
Discussion | Walkera Genius CP-the smallest 3d flybarless heli in the world! @ oomodel | oomodel.com | Hot Online Deals | 17 | Sep 28, 2015 10:48 AM |
Careful! | World Smallest Lightest Indestructible 3D helicopter Genius CP "More Junk" | Iceblade1A | Micro Helis | 91 | Sep 25, 2011 11:38 AM |
For Sale | Walkera 52 CP 3S MICRO heli(smaller than a Gaui)$75 DELIVERED | Z06 Tony | Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) | 0 | Aug 16, 2009 07:38 PM |
Question | What’s Better than a Blade CP and Smaller than a Trex? | HavingFun2002 | Micro Helis | 74 | Mar 05, 2006 06:07 PM |