Originally Posted by wildpalms

Since this is the F3P not the foamies or indoor forum I will make a couple of suggestions.

20g motor is heavy. The Axi at 18g all in is really a lot these days (gets away with it on bigger models as so good a motor).

240'ish batteries for sport flying. 180's for flying the schedules.

Servos. Try the next size down. Nothing bigger than 4.5-5.0g on all surfaces. Use 1 aileron servo.

Unless you have built a brick you will need nothing more than a 6A esc. My overweight Helix (120g) runs fine on small esc. Averaging less than 2A on current schedule flight.

One piece wing is ideal for home build but not if you are going to ship any to customers :-)

Dave

Well i haven't built it yet so i can still go for different electronic choices

so how about this motor https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

and these servos https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...sec_Servo.html

i already have 2 180Mah 2s lipos

and i also already own an 8A ESC with 2A BEC


hows That ?


K

P.s now it is a 2 peice wing for Reasons Stated by Wildpalms

Brett i sent you a PM

K

Although I have heard lots of good things about the 19T, I would go with a Hacker A10-15S and CC 6. It will pull around a 125 gram plane like a feather. And the combination only weighs ~20 grams.

Servos, I would go with Futabas, Hitecs, and or Diamonds.

Free

P.S. You pay for what you get.

Can't comment on those servos in particular. Servos in the size are often a lottery. Suck 'em and see :-)

That Hobby-King motor is very common down here. I know of several models that competed at EIM last year with them. 8x4.3 GWS Slow Fly prop. Can even be machined down on a lathe to save a few grams (I fly with a few people even more anal than me). They last well. I have one in a general knockabout model and I hate to think how many hundreds of flights it has.

I have the Hacker as well. Very noisy and I wasn't too keen on it. Fantastic motor for indoor pylon with the 7" prop though.

8A esc is ideal.

Weight is your enemy and equipment the only real way to get decent savings. Depron Aero saves quite a bit over normal Depron as well.

For the carbon work take a look at models like the Disney. The aileron bracing it uses really works.

Steer clear of real cheap carbon rod as well. Can be very floppy and heavier as well (lower carbon to resin ratio). Quite surprising just how much all the carbon can weigh when you end up with several metres of the stuff.

Look at this post, I found it very helpful(and depressing, lol).

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...5&postcount=96

Free

P.S. Also notice the bracing(kind of complicated)

The lighter the better. I watched the ETOC and their airplanes are nbelieveable. I forget who I talked to but one of the guys had a Hacker a10-9l on his with a 10 inch carbon fiber prop. He had his throttle adjusted in the travel adjusts of his radio for thirty percent. His plane was in the sub 120 gram range.
Generally when an F3P plane is made, they will either mill it down till it is almost nothing. Or they will mill it out all the way and put a saran wrap like material over it. All of this is in a life or death attempt at getting as close to nothing in weight as they possibly can. They do anything and everything to make these so ungodly light and fragile. Also, you will likely go through a few prototypes, F3P demands precision down to the inch, this means that a plane cannot have any weird tendencies. Sure a pilot can correct, but judges like to see the plane not only on clean lines, but a clean attitude as well.
F3P is a complicated world, people do different things to get the performance they want. But it all ends up on a couple deciding factors: Does the airplane weigh less than 3.5 ounces? And do you have 200 practice flights on it?

The link that Free provided shows an example of how unbelievably anal all these F3P guys are. This is why I stick to 3D depron sub 200 gram planes. Just slap it together and go hucking around the yard. The end.

Chris G.

Originally Posted by RCvehicleGuy

The link that Free provided shows an example of how unbelievably anal all these F3P guys are. This is why I stick to 3D depron sub 200 gram planes. Just slap it together and go hucking around the yard. The end.

Chris G.

You Remind me of Me When i made my 3DDF Genesis... (whacked it together)

+ i also Sand my CF Rods Surface's To save some Wieght.

Originally Posted by 3DDFHobbies

You Remind me of Me When i made my 3DDF Genesis... (whacked it together)

Haha! I say I whack my stuff together... Tell me what you think of this model I made up...
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1618054 Not a SINGLE reply on this one.
Put a lot of work into this one too... https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1582557

Anyways, ya, F3P is kinda complicated. Selling kits is kinda complicated. That is why I just make stuff for myself and post the plans for free on RCGroups. Good luck with your business venture though!

Chris G.

If you are building a F3p model that you are going to use in a gym with a bit limited space (from floor to celing) you have to think weight, and milling is a must its not just fancy works, you have to use good light servoes and a light motor and esc, you cant comprimize with anything.
If it is to heavy it will build up speed at downlines to fast , in the gym where I fly at the most its 8 meter under the roof and if you are going to have time for some rolls in the downline it cant weigh to much..if its to heavy its useless.
Thats at least what I found out I had one model that ended up at 125 gr with batteri I found it to heavy.....next was 106gr ..perfect

I have to ask why is the canopy a separate piece? Its another glue joint you just dont need

Andy

Originally Posted by Andycap

I have to ask why is the canopy a separate piece? Its another glue joint you just dont need

Andy

Mailing space...

Originally Posted by rgj

If you are building a F3p model that you are going to use in a gym with a bit limited space (from floor to celing) you have to think weight, and milling is a must its not just fancy works, you have to use good light servoes and a light motor and esc, you cant comprimize with anything.
If it is to heavy it will build up speed at downlines to fast , in the gym where I fly at the most its 8 meter under the roof and if you are going to have time for some rolls in the downline it cant weigh to much..if its to heavy its useless.
Thats at least what I found out I had one model that ended up at 125 gr with batteri I found it to heavy.....next was 106gr ..perfect

Im aiming for 100-106g but I'll have to build it as light as possible (without crazy milling ) and Use Aero-brakes to Slow things down ....

K

You guys Should I Add Some Aero-Brakes?