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I have 3 & 5 mil laminating film on hand that I use for ding-proofing my slope foamies, but it's really quite heavy. I've considered adding a strip of it to the leading edge, but a strip of packing tape would work just as well, (at less than half the weight). I think Paul Naton recommended packing tape on his mod site for "smoothiness".
Sonny |
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Monocote stick on trim film works great.
The chrome color reflects sunlight for a good "flash" for visibilty up high. |
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Yea have the thin laminating film and have used it on a home made weasel with polystyrene wing and it diddnt melt the foam so I guess it should be right on the radian foam. Try and see I supose will realy stiffen and strengthen the wing heaps
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Weight versus rate of descnet
I wish someone can correct me with explanations if I am wrong in what follows _ _ _
The manual states the weight is 34.6 oz. My Radian pro weight ready to fly 39.05 oz. That is an increase of 4.45 oz or 12.9 % So the speed for the same lift will be 6.25 % more and consequently the rate of descent will increase just about by that percentage of 6.25%. We might say it will fall like a brick . I fail to understgand why many are so concerned with weight while ohers install a 5 to 7 oz rod in the wings. Any tape on the leading edge is not going to do much to prevent nicks, recesses and broken tid bits. Any extra strength from the tape is not going to prevent or reduce flexing worth talking about. It will not smooth out the air flow because the air separation takes place ahead of the leading edge. I endorse smoothing the surface mainly for appearacnce and some small reduction in drag. A light transparent sticky tape can do that. Another way is to gently sand the surface with 400 grit and apply a coat or two of aircraft dope. Again a negligeable increase in weight. Any correction to the above and showing what you know by experience is the proper way would be appreciated. Zor |
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Naton was covering the whole model for smoothness not mainly for strength. Zor |
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A couple of weeks ago I got a Radian, and it's performance has exceeded my expectations. It is significantly lighter than a RP and it seems to stay up there forever. It climbs almost vertically with the same motor and prop. On the downside the wind blows it around a lot more, and it takes more room to land if there is no wind. What this amounts to (in my experience) is that when you add weight, the plane flies faster, cuts through the wind better, and lands sooner. |
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Thanks for you post Jovanx
The nominal book figure of 34.6 Oz is 980.56 grams. If we now add 404 grams we have a total of 1384.56 grams; an incease of 41 %. The speed becomes 19 % higher and the rate of descent has increased by 19%. The figures give us a much better idea of what is going on. Of course the pilot may be playing with the elevators and at one moment nosing down and the next moment slightly climbing and soon stall. The model will nose down on its own, gain speed and nose up again to repeat the process. That is not due to the airplane but it is induced by the pilot unable to judge the nose atitude of the model. Many will blame the airplane when the reality is their piloting. It appears to me that you and I have the same understanding. I wonder if we will see any posting disagreeing with us. Zor |
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When it all boils down it is High weight = high wing loading wich will stall at a higher arispeed will use more power to get up but will penetreate better but at a cost.
I think it is better to build a plane to fly not to crash my 2c |
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I have set up exactly as Chuckdseeker did in his video and he mentions an error in the original setup notes. His set up is different to your's above. I did the change as you suggested and all it did was change the operation of the Gear and Aux 2 switch and I still had the problem of the aileron not moving the same way as the flaps on Camber and Reflex and still moving in opposite direction in Crow. Got me stuffed but sitting here I think I should do one more thing. That is rebind just in case all the changes are not being read by the Rx. In the words of some actor with lots of muscles...I'll be back.
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I highlighted "but at a cost" above. You did not explain at what cost. The cost is "the speed". You seem to think that weight makes airplanes crash. The weight is not what makes airplanes crash. Some airplanes weighing 700,000 lbs (seven hundred thousands pounds) 350 tons do fly and do not crash. Zor Editing My finger slipped to the 6 instead of clicking the 3 . I had 700,000 lbs as being 650 tons. It is obviously 350 tons. Sorry I had not noticed it. End |
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Last edited by Zor; Jul 21, 2012 at 10:58 AM.
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I got a Radian Pro the other day. What a great easy way to get into gliding.
I must admit that this thread is daunting, and I haven't read it all. But I would like to share a bit of the fun I've had and experience I've gained over the last week. My Radian Pro came with really warped ailerons. At first I thought I'd have to call Parkzone and complain and get a new wing, but I was able to warp it back to being straight using the low setting on my heat gun. I thought it would be fun to have a tail cam on this glider, and an 808#16 (0.6oz or 17.5g) 720p HD keychain video camera seemed to fit the bill. I'll link to the videos I took with it below. In the first flight with the camera on the tail, I completely forgot to check CG. I honestly didn't think 17g would make that big of a difference. Well, it makes a huge difference on the rudder. So, I had to stop and move the battery forward.
Here's my second tailcam video.
The third video was at a parking lot near my house. Because I had lost the micro SD card which contained the first two videos, I thought I had to start over. So, this video has another intro to the camera mount at the start. I also noticed my aileron was weird, so I had to fix it. On this cloudy day, I actually got some updrafts (dunno if you can call them thermals) and got a pretty decent 8 minute glide:
The fourth video, you can see my daughter found the card and we're happy about it... But, the camera ran out of battery before I finished.
At the end of flight 4, I had an accident as I was trying to catch the glider -- I accidentally hit the throttle! Had to get stitches -- nuff sed. So that leads me to my next video, my DX8 configuration with a new safety configuration.
And I'm attaching my DX8 configuration file if anyone wants what I've got going here... ImagesView all Images in thread |
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Last edited by arcarius; Jul 21, 2012 at 03:34 AM.
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Sorry about the prop cut. Been there. |
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Last edited by kaptondave; Jul 21, 2012 at 08:12 AM.
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We have been using laminating film on our light weight slope acrobats. We use it to cover the EPP wings and fuse. It has proven to be very durable. We mostly use the 1.7 mil and 3 mil thicknesses. I weighed four square feet of material and got this result. 28 grams for the 3 mil 18 grams for the 1.7 mil I have put a three inch "D Box" of the 1.7 mil on my Radian. It seems to do a nice job of protecting the LE from minor dings and road rash. Regards, Dawson |
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I may have some time later today to type the programming. Note that we are talking about a DX7 and not a DX7s . C U later. Zor |
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Wait a minute... your camera is mounted to the top of the rudder and the camera image is always facing forward - your rudder is not moving! Do you always fly with no rudder control? I'm trying to figure out a reliable way of mounting my second #16 cam to glasses or the front of a ball cap, so I can film the plane hands-free. |
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