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I would have thought it would be faster with 2300w going into it, my F16 is doing similar speeds with 900w on 4s. Maybe the airframe is really draggy?
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Latest blog entry: Extreme RC AUSTRALIA
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ya Rodger we are using Tams eflight v32 shaft adapter with a minor modification to it and I dynamically balanced the rotor. Tam is going to make specific adapters for this, amps are still ok with this motor and the performance gain was there but it did not transfer to the aircraft in flight so we have hit the wall with this airframe and or ducting. I still think the 2150kv bl32 motor is better because amps are lower, flight time is better and really no inflight performance loss was noticed, the mega motor seemed to be smoother and more quiet than the bl32 however. I think if one could get a high quality motor like these in a 2000 or 2100kv that could be really good because you should be able to get amp draw down in the 50-60 range and use smaller liter batteries and still get 40k from the rotor this would be the efficient sweet spot
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ya this is a 4lb Jet with retracts I would bet our watts per pound are pretty close, not equal but close. the F16 is a very low drag airframe
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This is a life long hobby to me so the upfront investments are WELL worth it... |
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thats a good record ERH and you obviously enjoy playing around with the technology of edf. I'm not saying your doing it wrong, just saying if your end result is a high performance, long lasting and reliable edf jet that you want then you will eventually figure out that cheap plastic fans and motors wont get you there. it does depend a lot on how you fly and how much you fly, I need a setup that is going to do 100's of trouble free flight not tens of flights. my first two edf fans were high quality plastic fans with good motors and good to excellent assembly and balance by me. my first was 3000watt setup and second was 3700 watt setup neither of which made it to 50 flights before housing failure was imminent I caught these problems before failure and quickly learned that they could not cut it. 50 flights for me is about 1 to 2 months of flying. so you can see for me a new plastic housing every two months is more expensive than one good fan that will give me hundreds of flights and thats assuming you catch all the would be failures before they happen, if you miss one and it takes out a model well then your really behind the ball
I realize its different for everyone and this is just how it works for me |
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If I'm going to pay 5 times the cost I at least want 2.5 times the performance and reliability |
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Also posted on F9 RC Lander thread, but figured it applied here as well:
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Yes, forgot the heat specs...
It survived around 3-5 10 - 20 second burst on bench with bell and shaft temps around 180f IIRC tops with a quick fall off with no cool down (it wasn't holding the heat) which seems like the best way to try and burn up a motor during bench testing...I usually go 3/4 thorttle after I spin the motor back up then burst.....kinda like I'm flying. I've been running this motor and an 8 blade 80mm F16 fan (I forget who made them, they are light and cheap though) for almost 20 flights at in my GWS A-4 plane. I've yet to put the 10 blade fan on 6s in the plane but it gives has similar watt requirements. 6s\78 amps\? thrust (have not idea but the sound is sooooo sick)\ around 22 volts on a 3300mah 45c NANO pack. Did I mention the sound is sick? Note: I slow spin that CP 480-2500kv motor up with one of those HK 70-80 amp esc (really a 100amp esc) and the heat shrink taken off to get better cooling and it's held up great. I think the slow spooling might help keep the motor cool and my packs cool too. I ran one of the 3300mah 45c nano packs down past 3300mah during flight (3450-ish charge reading) and on final I still had a good punch!!! When I felt the pack it wasn't steaming hot either, it was warmed up like a pack that I had run without slow spool up but stressed a little....no puffing etc. One cell didn't like that ish and read a high IR on the charger but once charged it was back below 0 and I don't think I've heard from it sense. Slow spooling also helps transient power issues in esc's, "burst" power is reduce and so are ripples in the esc FET "rails" (audio guys should know what I'm talking about).... You will also get a slight turbine like delay in response but not so slow your timings is way off, take offs are nice sounding too... I wish the other SUPPO esc's had a slow start like this and again I think it helps the motors not having to deal with "burst" heat also. an observation |
Last edited by erh7771; Apr 16, 2012 at 03:29 PM.
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