See pic here

Originally Posted by fltekdiver

yes, I picked the hindge side, since the other was bellved

Im trying to mount the hacket motor, but the shaft is sticking out the rear of the motor, instead of the front , how do I mount the prop etc onto the shaft like this?

You don't as far as I know. There should be a way to slide the shaft forward...Set screws and clips maybe?

10/4, got it, I just used a socket, put it over the shaft, and hit it gentley with a hammer, and the shaft slide right through to the other side, thanks !

Originally Posted by StormJunkie

Ok, so you did not center the rudder but actually put it to the hinge side? Thought about that but really didn't want the offset rudder. If they would just cut this thing out of the thicker foam, it would bake life so much easier


Crawl, do you fly a perfectly neutral CG? No KE coupling, etc? And if so, where is your batter placed in respect to the carbon wing spar? Thanks, appreciate the help!

The rudder is hinged centered, but the bottom part gets pulled over when the welder dries so it looks offset on mine. We're only talking a 1/16" even if it isn't, hardly something you'll notice on a foam plane.

The center of the pack is 3/8" behind the spar on mine with the gear on. I have the CG back a little, it harriers and hovers much better this way. moving the battery 1/8" actually makes a difference with mine and that is where it really shows. If it's a bit forward the plane requires more speed to fly, especially in KE and is hard to lock in the hover so you'll know right away if it needs to be moved back a little. I started with the pack against the gear legs and have been progressively moving it back a little because most of the repairs have been in front of the battery, now it's about 3/8" aft of that. In KE it couples a little bit to the gear but that's probably a trim issue.

Thanks!

I'll put a little extra velcro on there so I can move it around a little. Would love to be able to get it to harrier and hover in a neutral position if I can, but sounds like you haven't had much success with that.

Also just measure my rudder and I've got a hair over a .1" on each side, so sliding it over to the hinge would leave just over .2" on the one side. May try sliding it over if I build another one at some point, but really like to keep everything centered. Agree that coupling is usually a trim issue, but it's possible that the slide over on the hinge is causing it too.

Carbon fiber flat pcs on the bottom, getting their !

On the ALIE control arms I'm going to the hobby store now to buy 3" pcs of thread rods, and doing it that way instead

Flat carbon on the keel seems like a good idea. Gotta be careful not to weigh the bird down too much, though.

Yeh, with all that little power the Hacker A20 has, I may not even get off the ground

Originally Posted by fltekdiver

Yeh, with all that little power the Hacker A20 has, I may not even get off the ground

Yeah, think this bird has plenty of room for a little more weight with the A20 or the motorfly 2215-1150

Threaded rods are not a bad idea...I think I might try a short piece of CF rod though and see if I can run it the same system as the rudder & elev. Have the CF here so won't hurt to try. Also have a few pieces of music wire where I didn't get both bends on the exact same plane so will let you know how that goes.

I also used a larger piece of hollow CF for the rudder and elev and am going to skip the little supports...

Reason I may go with threaded rod, is so you can adjust the servo travel just like you would on the bigger planes

Problem is, weight

Your now adding 2 pcs of 3" thread rod, and clevis

So Im going to see what they weigh on the scale now vs, the carbon fiber with the Z bend music wire

I really don't think weight will bea prkb with this plane. unless of course you add a lead weight

What is the weight coming in at ready-to-fly minus the battery?

Curious how mine compares. Built it 100% stock....

Originally Posted by STLAV8R

What is the weight coming in at ready-to-fly minus the battery?

Curious how mine compares. Built it 100% stock....

Would like to know myself...although I have no way of weighing mine.

Originally Posted by StormJunkie

Thanks!

I'll put a little extra velcro on there so I can move it around a little. Would love to be able to get it to harrier and hover in a neutral position if I can, but sounds like you haven't had much success with that.

Also just measure my rudder and I've got a hair over a .1" on each side, so sliding it over to the hinge would leave just over .2" on the one side. May try sliding it over if I build another one at some point, but really like to keep everything centered. Agree that coupling is usually a trim issue, but it's possible that the slide over on the hinge is causing it too.

If it were the rudder causing it then it would couple the opposite way in KE on the other side and it doesn't. I initially suspected down thrust angle since there is no self alignment when you glue the motor mount on but changing it didn't seem to make much difference. A little more experimentation is in order of I want to eliminate it completely but I don't have a problem flying it the way it is.

Not sure on the weight, I just tried to weigh it, and I have a UPS scale, so in ouncs its not that accurate

I also went with Gen Ace 1000mah, vs the 1,300mah, so it should come in around the stock set up