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Discussion: Blade 450
...and we're back!
So a couple of days ago I came in really low with my blade 450 and a tall weed caught the left skid and flipped it onto its side. Luckily, I had the CF blades so no harm done. But my feathering shaft was bent way out of proportion. So after watching the videos from MikelG, I was able to replace it with out any worries. But I soon realized my flybar was bent in almost an S curve. (this was after I had to replace the feathering shaft.) Now this is where the trouble begins. I went to my LHS and got a new flybar, but little did I realize how hard it was to replace. As stated in the previous section, it is a to replace. The flybar weights were literally glued to the flybar itself, and the flybar was so bent it wouldn't fit through the main head. After removing all the Allen screws, I had to make the flybar somewhat straight, and use a hammer to pound off the weights. Oh, and the thread lock was "fun" to deal with also. The best advice I can give to all you "newbies" (no offense) is... TRY NO TO CRASH! Either that, or go flybarless, my other helis are going to be converted to FBL as well. Just listen to me, you won't want to be replacing those parts soon. So if you are a beginner, I fully recommend the blade mCP X as your first CP heli. Get to a level where you aren't crashing. So I have been looking for a different canopy for my Blade 450, and I think I found a really cool one. http://fusuno.com/product_info.php?c...3597f9f9cbbc91 I realize this is a little off topic, again, but does anybody have any good experience with Fusuno? Or better yet, does anybody have this canopy? As for the scale fuselages, I think I will pass. I know a few guys that fly scale, but it is too boring for me. But hey, that is my opinion. It's kind of the reason I bought a blade 450 3D. I would be interested for an airwolf fuselage though, make that into some of my "trash" helis. Happy flying, and have a great day...or night.... theexpertrcpilot |
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Try using a soldering iron of decent wattage (i.e. HOT) to loosen up stuck metal parts. It will soften lock-tite or whatever it is they use. As for the flybar, sometimes you just have to cut it off close to the hub/cage and dress up the end with some sanding or a Dremel wheel. Makes it much easier to pull through.
As for those carbon fiber blades, I'd be wary of flying with them after a crash that was hard enough to bend the feathering spindle. That was a hard hit. Maybe it's just me, but I don't trust ANY blades (main or tail) if they kiss the ground. |
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Any comments or ideas on canopy option like in my previous post? theexpertrcpilot |
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If you want a really easy option, Blade sells 3 other, slightly differently colored stock canopies.
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Yes, but after having one, I find they are really cheap feeling, and that goes without saying, it is a middle class heli... not like a t-rex sadly. I get what I paid for.
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No clue on that canopy. Never even seen one in person. |
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theexpertrcpilot |
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Last edited by theexpertrcpilot; Oct 15, 2011 at 12:20 PM.
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Then I straighten the flybar as much as possible next to the inner part where it goes into the plastic paddle control arm. Then I cut off the flybar about a half inch from where it goes in, on the straightest side of the flybar. Then sand any burs with emery cloth that were caused by cutting the bar with side cutters. When I sand I cover the chopper and especially the motor to avoid metal filings getting into the magnets. Now simply push the old flybar out with the new flybar, and you dont lose the brass washers or anything. It works swell. Dont ever try to push or pull the bent flybar out without cutting it. I tried that at first and I was fixin to break something I could tell. It was a bugger untill I figured it out. The only thing I have never found any info on is what angle to set the flybar paddles to? I just set them level to maybe 1 degree up and they seem to fly fine. BD |
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Flybar? Ewww....
Nah I kid. The Blade 450 is a great helicopter. |
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Is flybarless quite a bit harder to fly? BD |
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I actually find most FBL systems to handle better and be more stable, but for the most part it's very similar.
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I've been lucky enough not to crash any of my FBLs yet, but yes I would assume they're easier to repair seeing as there's fewer parts.
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The head sure has to be with only two pushrods on the entire thing with each running up from the rotating star of the swashplate to each blade grip pitch change arm. Don't know about the setup, though...that looks like it could be a PITA to get right. But, my only experience with FBL is an mCP X and that thing is squirrely as hell. I'm sure that's because of it's size, though, and probably really can't make a good call on FBL. But, based on the mCP X, I don't like it.
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