now i just have to wait outside till the brown truck arrives

Does anyone know if the hacker motor pulls air from the front or the back? If it is the front then it would seem the motor is getting very little air as the spinner is large enough to direct air past the front of the motor.

A club member did a nice presentations this evening on building air scoops in the cowl to direct air to the motor. He is flying an Extreme Flight 78" Extra. He also built an air dam inside the fuselage to direct air to the hole in the bottom of the plane rather than allowing air to flow clear to the tail inside the fuse.

I ran a 15x6 APC prop on my 51" slick all last year and I don't remember the motor getting overly hot but maybe I was not watching closely.

I looked in the previous posts of this thread and it looks like one guy make scoops that would push air to the back of the motor. Any opinions on whether this is necessary for the slick?

Not necessary IMO. I fly out here in Arizona all year long. Have never had a problem. I do let the motor/esc cool between flights though.

-Buzzed

P.S. All my gasser buddies do the air dam thing. Looks cool, works great.

A few AZ sunset flying shots...

Enjoy my friends!

-Buzzed

Originally Posted by roadhogtri

I have the 51" AJ Fliton extra and need to rebuild the motor mount area.

Is it the yellow/black/white one?? My buddy has one of those. First true 3D aerobat I ever flew.

-Buzzed

Originally Posted by 2-Stroke Freak

Hi guys, new to the wide fuse world. Came home from the Toledo show with a Orange Slick, and a Hacker 30-12XL. I have 4s 3000 TGY Nano packs for batterys.

The kit came with 4 white stand offs. I didn't see anything in the directions, or build vids about them, but when mounting the cowel it seems to be set deep on the fuse as if I should install the stand offs. What gives??

Also, where does the Laser cut RX plate mount ? I'm using FASST.


Thanks!

How deep is the cowl sitting? It shouldn't be more thane 1/2 inch. The standoffs are to move the motor forward so your cowl doesn't sit so far back

Originally Posted by 1FlightWonder

Does anyone know if the hacker motor pulls air from the front or the back? If it is the front then it would seem the motor is getting very little air as the spinner is large enough to direct air past the front of the motor.

A club member did a nice presentations this evening on building air scoops in the cowl to direct air to the motor. He is flying an Extreme Flight 78" Extra. He also built an air dam inside the fuselage to direct air to the hole in the bottom of the plane rather than allowing air to flow clear to the tail inside the fuse.

I ran a 15x6 APC prop on my 51" slick all last year and I don't remember the motor getting overly hot but maybe I was not watching closely.

I looked in the previous posts of this thread and it looks like one guy make scoops that would push air to the back of the motor. Any opinions on whether this is necessary for the slick?

if the motor is not getting to hot to touch, I wouldn't worry about it. When I fly I usually have 2 planes. I fly one then then the other so everything cools down but I usually can fly back to back if I want. Nothing gets to hot to touch. Of course if there are more folks flying at the field, then there is plenty of visiting and talking going on to let things cool down.

Maybe that 15" prop is to much, most stick with the 14x7.

Originally Posted by Buzzed

A few AZ sunset flying shots...

Enjoy my friends!

-Buzzed

Love the photos.....

Originally Posted by 1FlightWonder

I ran a 15x6 APC prop on my 51" slick all last year and I don't remember the motor getting overly hot but maybe I was not watching closely.

batteries and amp/watts? the V2 A30-12XL or 10XL have fan blades built-in to the backside of front plate where the prop. adapter bolts on, on the front of the motor. It pulls air from the front and pushes it through the can to the back.

Originally Posted by Buzzed

A few AZ sunset flying shots...

Enjoy my friends!

-Buzzed

Gorgeous shots man. I gotta get out there and fly with you guys again.

I'm trying to figure out what club I'm going to sign up at... but my house in Surprise is soooo far from Cave Creek.

Originally Posted by roadhogtri

I have the 51" AJ Fliton extra and need to rebuild the motor mount area.

I think 3dhs has rebuild kits for that concern with the right amount of thrust built in it..

http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/51-AJ-Sli...x_p_14995.html

Opps didnt see you have the fliton. That box wont work for that..

I just sold my aj fliton complete kit at the toledo show...

Originally Posted by twilkers

if you're talking to me (I wasn't sure) it's a 14x7.

I really like them, the xoars are lighter and pull strong. Everyone asks me, "is that a wooden prop on an electric?" I really didn't play around with the dia or pitch, just switched to xoar electric.

tim

Yup. was talking to you.

Freakin LHS has every xoar prop size except 14x7. Been wanting to try one for a while. Looks a lot better then that gray hunk of APC sitting on the nose of my slick

Originally Posted by heligrom

Yup. was talking to you.

Freakin LHS has every xoar prop size except 14x7. Been wanting to try one for a while. Looks a lot better then that gray hunk of APC sitting on the nose of my slick

I often spray paint my APC props (14" - 20" dia).

Vien

Originally Posted by FireyFate

Gorgeous shots man. I gotta get out there and fly with you guys again.

I'm trying to figure out what club I'm going to sign up at... but my house in Surprise is soooo far from Cave Creek.

Move to Cave Creek!

We will be out tearing up the skies this weekend, so stop by bud.

-Buzzed

P.S. Sat/Sund evening when the "coast is clear!"

Originally Posted by vienquach

I often spray paint my APC props (14" - 20" dia).

Vien

Rits fabric dye works great and does not add weight and doesn't scratch off