Sorry, my question was not worded well.

Can it be flown without the use of rudder. I would prefer just tailerons but does it fly well without installing the rudder servo.

And are the hinge tapes on the tailerons sufficiently strong or do people mod them?

thanks for any guidance

Originally Posted by drumbum

Sorry, my question was not worded well.

Can it be flown without the use of rudder. I would prefer just tailerons but does it fly well without installing the rudder servo.

And are the hinge tapes on the tailerons sufficiently strong or do people mod them?

thanks for any guidance

I have the rudder servo installed but don't use it for what I'm using the Squall for. It will fly without the servo installed, but you will have to move your gear back to achieve the cofg(no servo weight in the tail). The added decals will improve the strength of the hinge line which works for me.

i barelly used rudder too but with thrust vector makes big difference

Had about 10 flights on my Squall these past two weeks. Thought I share some experiences:
1. Compared to the EF-16, it is less twitchy. But makes a wider turn than the EF-16.
2. Had more close calls with self launches, probably due to its weight? Not sure.
3. It is slower than the EF-16 at wide open throttle. I am running HET 6904 2w-20 on both and difference is noticeable.
4. Like the others have said, the intake lip is the weak point of this plane. I could bring the plane in nice and smooth, but as soon as it touches the grass, thump! The lip would catch. And it did crumbled the intake in my last flight. I have the belly pan kit coming from Morgan, and I am hoping it will solve this problem for me.
5. If you aren't going to install thrust vectoring, don't bother installing the rudder servo. I wish I can remove mine, it made the plane barely balanceable.

It is a fun plane for sure. But I am not about to retire my EF-16 yet.

Originally Posted by Steph280

Had about 10 flights on my Squall these past two weeks. Thought I share some experiences:
1. Compared to the EF-16, it is less twitchy. But makes a wider turn than the EF-16.
2. Had more close calls with self launches, probably due to its weight? Not sure.
3. It is slower than the EF-16 at wide open throttle. I am running HET 6904 2w-20 on both and difference is noticeable.
4. Like the others have said, the intake lip is the weak point of this plane. I could bring the plane in nice and smooth, but as soon as it touches the grass, thump! The lip would catch. And it did crumbled the intake in my last flight. I have the belly pan kit coming from Morgan, and I am hoping it will solve this problem for me.
5. If you aren't going to install thrust vectoring, don't bother installing the rudder servo. I wish I can remove mine, it made the plane barely balanceable.

It is a fun plane for sure. But I am not about to retire my EF-16 yet.

Great summary and I really like the high visibility paint scheme.

steph.....

Nice looking planes.....I love both my squall and Ef16....running 4s in both and they both scream....I'm a little more cautious with the squall....since it seems things happen a lot faster.

I found a 3m rock gaurd product they use on cars....stuck it on the bottom and land both planes on asphalt runway...no more catching the lip....I also took a coat hangar and made a "U" shape and mounted up front...it keeps the nose from digging in....

Originally Posted by mjdee14

steph.....

Nice looking planes.....I love both my squall and Ef16....running 4s in both and they both scream....I'm a little more cautious with the squall....since it seems things happen a lot faster.

I found a 3m rock gaurd product they use on cars....stuck it on the bottom and land both planes on asphalt runway...no more catching the lip....I also took a coat hangar and made a "U" shape and mounted up front...it keeps the nose from digging in....

can you tell me any more re. the 3m rock guard? i posted awhile back looking for just such a product , but got no response. i land on asphalt also and sure need something. i ended up using a piece of clear plastic from a booze bottle that had the correct curve. dont know how long it will last yet as i just got it installed, seemed fairly tough when i rubbed it on the black top.

thanks, chuck.

R/C cars have a film that resists scuffing that adheres to the bottom, a few guys here have used it on the bellys and wing tips with great success. Drivers Seat has rock guard.
Toyota has it also.

Originally Posted by chas650r

can you tell me any more re. the 3m rock guard? i posted awhile back looking for just such a product , but got no response. i land on asphalt also and sure need something. i ended up using a piece of clear plastic from a booze bottle that had the correct curve. dont know how long it will last yet as i just got it installed, seemed fairly tough when i rubbed it on the black top.

thanks, chuck.

I used to call it helicopter tape when I raced full size cars alluding to it being placed on the blade leading edge. I'd apply a layer of "helicopter tape" to rocker areas where tires would kick up hot rubber and rocks.

3M make the protective film. Below is a link:
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...rotection/Film

Originally Posted by chas650r

can you tell me any more re. the 3m rock guard? i posted awhile back looking for just such a product , but got no response. i land on asphalt also and sure need something. i ended up using a piece of clear plastic from a booze bottle that had the correct curve. dont know how long it will last yet as i just got it installed, seemed fairly tough when i rubbed it on the black top.

thanks, chuck.

http://www.amazon.com/Trimbrite-T902.../dp/B000HNFCHQ

This the stuff I use....found it at Amazon pretty cheap....google T9020 clear trim and you will get several places to buy it.....it's great stuff and after amny landings it shows almost no wear....just scuffmarks....

thanks guys for all the info on the rock guard ect.

after posting a new thread in the foamy edf forum and getting no response, this is a pleasant change .

one other question, how thick is this stuff? like a few layers of packing tape?

anyway ,thanks again,

chuck.

how thick is this stuff?

About like laminating film for cards etc.

I have a delima, choosing between two motor types I have, do I go with a 4s that can run on 5s for short periods or go with a 5s dedicated as 4s on the one isn't stellar but is the shiz on 5s with power and efficiency.

I wouldn't go with the one that can run on 5s for short periods risk of burning the motor out and it probably wouldn't last as long. For a Squall I would stick to 4s as 5s is just extra weight.

Originally Posted by chas650r

thanks guys for all the info on the rock guard ect.

after posting a new thread in the foamy edf forum and getting no response, this is a pleasant change .

one other question, how thick is this stuff? like a few layers of packing tape?

anyway ,thanks again,

chuck.

yes maybe a little thicker than 2, but it it not real thick....and it takes a real beating....doesn't like to go around compound curves so cut severla smaller pieces...

Originally Posted by chas650r

thanks guys for all the info on the rock guard ect.

after posting a new thread in the foamy edf forum and getting no response, this is a pleasant change .

one other question, how thick is this stuff? like a few layers of packing tape?

anyway ,thanks again,

chuck.

Chuck,

Here are some product specs for 3M Trimguard for the $20 roll:

Product Features

• Used to protect the door edges of vehicles from potential nicks and abrasion
• 6 mil, clear coated urethane film that helps preserve the vehicle finish
• The application is meant to be permanent; however, it can be removed if desired.
• PN84901, .4 in x 10 yards.
• with pressure sensitive adhesive.

Here is the link to Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Pai...=pd_sbs_auto_3