I have all the electronics here ready to go, now I'm just waiting for the Matrix 2 folding frame to come in the mail. I saw the one IW was putting together and had to have it. Can't wait to get it all together and in the air.

My setup will be:
-Arduino Nano
-Wii+
-AVerticalView's Matrix 2 folding frame (http://www.averticalview.com/matrix_...g_version.html)
-Alpha 480 outrunner
(http://www.hobbypartz.com/alpha-480-...ess-motor.html)
-HobbyWing 30A ESCs
(http://www.hobbypartz.com/30a-electr...o-series-.html)

And I hope to be able to add the nunchuk once Alex gets it squared away. Thank you so much Alex, you are the best.

Originally Posted by Alexinparis

Front and back side of a bad Wii Motion Plus copy
Gyros are ok and ADC seems ok

The problem is related to I2C only : the communication is not reliable and can stop working at every time

Alex! this is bad fake WM+ for using gyro of triwii?
I got it to use for triwii.
You recommend original WM+?

Yun

Originally Posted by Sid3ways

My setup will be:
-Arduino Nano
-Wii+
-AVerticalView's Matrix 2 folding frame (http://www.averticalview.com/matrix_...g_version.html)
-Alpha 480 outrunner
(http://www.hobbypartz.com/alpha-480-...ess-motor.html)
-HobbyWing 30A ESCs
(http://www.hobbypartz.com/30a-electr...o-series-.html)

Hi,
That sounds cool
I think your ESCs will be ok (same type of low cost ESC). You will maybe have to tune the minimum running value which must be edited before compiling.

Originally Posted by wland

Alex! this is bad fake WM+ for using gyro of triwii?
I got it to use for triwii.
You recommend original WM+?

Yun

Hi,
This is one of the bad fake WM+ (there maybe others).
It seems to work fine at the beginning, but suddenly I2C stops working and it freezes everything, and the motors continues to spin.
A genuine WM+ with old yaw gyro (metallic case) will work in normal I2C mode, that's all I know. I maybe a good idea if you want to be sure, as suggested by Sid3ways.
Here is one ebay shop with good fake:
http://cgi.ebay.fr/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...#ht_2044wt_695
I will try to collect pictures of all good/wrong fakes I saw.

Originally Posted by Alexinparis

Hi,
That sounds cool
I think your ESCs will be ok (same type of low cost ESC). You will maybe have to tune the minimum running value which must be edited before compiling.

Thanks for your tips. Which value do you recommend? The higher or lower value to start?

I also made a mistake and noticed I bought the 450 series motors and not the 480s. I hope they will be enough to lift this heavy beast. I'm going to order some RCTimer 3536-9s I think it is. Much larger.

Going to start the build maybe Monday or Tuesday as I just got the folding matrix2 frame in the mail.

She's beautiful.

Originally Posted by Sid3ways

Thanks for your tips. Which value do you recommend? The higher or lower value to start?

Going to start the build maybe Monday or Tuesday as I just got the folding matrix2 frame in the mail.

She's beautiful.

Your going to love it, I do mine. I have some RC Timer motors on order for another build I'm doing to see how they compair to the Turnigy ones.

Mike.

Originally Posted by signguy

Got everything mounted and plugged in, but No Go

I'll try to re-upload the sketch. I'm using my old tricopter, and eurgle 2.4 radio, and Super Simple 10 amp speed controls. If I hit the reset on the arduino, I get a 1 second motor run from all motors. No other controls are working, not even yaw. I did see a change in your wiring. You went from the last connector away from the ground on the M+ to 5v on one picture, and to pin 12 on another. I'm at pin 12. I measured 5 v at the M+. I'll also try reversing channels.

Do I have to hold the rudder over during radio startup, or just when I'm ready to fly?

Hope I can get this working. I have another board with header pins and a breadboard, maybe I'll make that one up too.

Thanks
Bob D

I am having the same problem as Bob lists above - nothing seems to work from the TX - no yaw or motor spin up - I have tried 2 different WMP a clone and original both doing the same thing - ESC seem to arm because once I hit reset the motors spin up - I am using a DX7 TX and 6200rx wiring seems to be okay as well - All help appreciated Thanks
Mike

Originally Posted by cdi3d

I am having the same problem as Bob lists above - nothing seems to work from the TX - no yaw or motor spin up - I have tried 2 different WMP a clone and original both doing the same thing - ESC seem to arm because once I hit reset the motors spin up - I am using a DX7 TX and 6200rx wiring seems to be okay as well - All help appreciated Thanks
Mike

Can you load the blink sketch?

Close up pictures of your build might help.

Originally Posted by cdi3d

I will try the blink sketch and see - Also will get some pictures - Thanks
Mike

Cool. Especially close ups of how your wires are connected to the motion+.

I will try the blink sketch and see - Also will get some pictures - Thanks
Mike

Originally Posted by Sid3ways

Thanks for your tips. Which value do you recommend? The higher or lower value to start?

Start with the lowest (1120) , and increase it by step of 20 or 30.
When you arm the tricopter, your motor must spin at a minimum value, but not to low to be sure they will always start.

Originally Posted by cdi3d

I am having the same problem as Bob lists above - nothing seems to work from the TX - no yaw or motor spin up - I have tried 2 different WMP a clone and original both doing the same thing - ESC seem to arm because once I hit reset the motors spin up - I am using a DX7 TX and 6200rx wiring seems to be okay as well - All help appreciated Thanks
Mike

Can you see the green led staying constantly UP after few seconds ?

Hello,

Apologies if i derail the thread a bit, has anybody good a good link or explination on how to go about fine tuning PID setting for all flying conditions?

I dont have this specific tri but i beleive PID is the same for all? Mine tend to oscilate when descending or whem there is wind, not sure what to tune to get it 100%?

Thanks!!
Dion

Originally Posted by Alexinparis

Can you see the green led staying constantly UP after few seconds ?

No green light only the red is contant
mike

Originally Posted by rcimports

Hello,

Apologies if i derail the thread a bit, has anybody good a good link or explination on how to go about fine tuning PID setting for all flying conditions?

I dont have this specific tri but i beleive PID is the same for all? Mine tend to oscilate when descending or whem there is wind, not sure what to tune to get it 100%?

Thanks!!
Dion

Straight from Alex's webpage:

PID controller involves three separate parameters: the term Proportional, the term Integral and the term Derivative. The variation of each of these parameters alters the effectiveness of the stabilisation.

Applied to a multirotor, the coefficients of these parameters can be translated by their behaviour:

Proportional coefficient: alone, it may achieve stabilization. This coefficient determines the importance of action on the engines in relation with the values measured by the gyroscopes. The higher the coefficient, the higher the tricopter seems more « rigid » versus angular deviation. If it is too low, the tricopter will appear soft and will be harder to keep steady. One can « feel » this setting by handling the tricopter and trying to change its orientation: the higher the parameter, the higher the opposition is important. In practice, this parameter must be set alone and increased up to be the limit for obtaining small oscillations. If too high, the system becomes unstable by amplifying the oscillations.

Integral coefficient : this coefficient can increase the precision of the angular position. In practice, when the tricopter is disturbed and its angle changes, the term Integral remembers the disruption and apply a correction to the engines to get the right angle. We can see this term as an heading hold factor. Typically if you take handfuls the tricopter and try to force it into a position, the engines will continue for some time to counteract the action. Without this term, the opposition does not last as long. This way, the angular position can be steady and accurate even with irregular wind, or during ground effect. However, the increase of this ratio often involves a reaction speed decrease and a decrease of the Proportional coefficient as a consequence. Compared to the conventional PID algorithm, I decided to cancel this term in the presence of strong angular variations. This strategy allows a safer behaviour in case of looping or hard manoeuvre.

Derivative coefficient: this coefficient allows the tricopter to reach more quickly the requested attitude. In practice it will amplify the reaction speed of the system, and in certain cases an increase of the Proportional term. By cons, this parameters induces more noise.
By default, at the first startup, the tricopter is initialized with coefficient values that should be quite ok:

P: 3.5
I: 0.04
D: -15

I got it off the ground today.
Is there a way to decrease the yaw gyros sensitivity to vibrations?

Originally Posted by Alexinparis

Motor shutdown
Motor shutdown is done by tilting the yaw stick left while having the throttle stick in minimum position.

Mine shuts down with yaw stick right while having the throttle stick at the minimum position.

My opposite rudder commands seam to be due to the way I have my servo mounted.

Originally Posted by Alexinparis

Gyroscopes calibration. To calibrate the neutral of gyroscopes, you must tilt the yaw stick left, tilt the pitch stick down while having the throttle stick in minimal position..

Doing this arms my motors and makes them spin. Is this supposed to happend during calibration?

Yaw stick right, pitch stick down, throttle down, makes the green led flash three times then it goes out. This isn't calibration right? It seams to set the tri into PID value setting mode?