Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123

I am debating on a mega for my stryker or one for my hotliner. I can only afford one. hmm......

Johnny,
Correct me if I am wrong here, but dont you already run 3 and 4 cells ?

80 amp ESC, no ?

Would you run 5 or more cells in the future ?

Do you need help in deciding which MEGA to get ???

I can help if you want.

Originally Posted by moparmyway

UUUuuuuuuummmmmmmmmmmmm....................
Those are 5mm shafts also

Oops...well...still true.

Originally Posted by Pudknocker71

Oops...well...still true.

ROFL Dude !!!!

Originally Posted by moparmyway

Johnny,
Correct me if I am wrong here, but dont you already run 3 and 4 cells ?

80 amp ESC, no ?

Would you run 5 or more cells in the future ?

Do you need help in deciding which MEGA to get ???

I can help if you want.

I have a 100 amp Castle Ice, and about 3 or 4 Turnigy 80 amp esc's. I have been running 4S in my stryker but not too much in my funjet. I want to build this new airframe to fly on 5S eventually. And I want to do this without glassing

johnnyrocco123,

I signed on earlier to give you a reply earlier but got sidetracked with answering PMs.


At the simplest level, position of a prop during landing with motor off can bend a shaft....but I found running soft delayed brake on a 6 pole motor goes VERY far to help with regular built Strykers.

_________________________________________________

My Story:

The only time that I bent a shaft during flight:
I built a new Stryker roughly 40 o.z. I think (it was the heaviest one up to that date). Right after the launch, I was so in "AWE" of the power and noise that I paused before getting my hand back on the transmitter...I think I just starred at the plane for a bit too long. I then gave it full up elevator, it leveled out as it hit the ground hard. It bent a shaft at full throttle with APC 7X4 Sport.
Actually, I think the front of the Stryker had just came up a little, so the full force of impact was transferred through the prop to the motor.
The guts including my first co-pilot install in a Stryker were all ejected. I shoved everything back in place and bent the shaft straight the best I could and did the maiden 10 minutes later with a slightly wobbly shaft.

All totally my fault.
While visiting family in another state, I had built an ULTRA Stryker and I went to a field I had never been before and was both excited and nervous and alone.....Regardless of what we know, we can all screw up at times. I goofed up.

__________________________________________________


johnnyrocco123,

It "Might" be possible to select a dual purpose MEGA motor...all depends on your specific needs and plans, and parts on hand etc...
Maybe you want two different motors and do not want to swap, in that case forget dual purpose motor.

Give Mopar all the details....I doubt you can give him too much detail, at least try. Not giving enough detail will only work against you.

Recently someone told me they are going to run a motor in a particular plane for 6 months out of a year, then swap it into another plane for another 6 months.

Everyone has different needs.


p.s. Partial quotes sometimes work better.



Gryphon

Hi all,


Any of you interested in building a twin?
(Both motors in rear side by side)

You can buy (2) inexpensive motors, for big power buy (2) 480 size motors.

You can plan it well and even account for size of prop in advance so you can have the two motors turn in different directions in order to cancel the torque.

VERY few props are available in both forward and reverse pitch (tractor and pusher).

Couple of prop sizes: APC E 6X4 for insane climbing in a twin. Also APC E 5.5X4.5 for possibly higher top speed pending setup.

You can tailor motor KV and battery voltage, size , weight, and capability.

Vertical fins can be modified and/or relocated.



***Above all, the sound of a twin in sync(close RPM) is just heavenly and music to anyone's ears.

I've seen dual stock motor and ESC F-27C before and pics are posted by owner.


Gryphon

Can you all help/comment on different prop sizes that are available in both forward and reverse pitch?

Any brand from near 5" diameter to 6.5" diameter props.


Thank you all in advance,

Gryphon

Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123

I want to build this new airframe to fly on 5S eventually. And I want to do this without glassing

OK, you will hit 140, but I am not so sure about anything faster.
IMHO, glassing is a necessary deed when looking for speeds over 140-145 on a Stryker. If done correctly you MIGHT be able to hit 150, but it is doubtfull. There is only 1 Stryker on the planet that I know of that went over 150 without glassing, and that was TheKid3814 Stryker. He tapped the entire thing (if I remember right), and I am not too sure about his CF layout (if any).

Originally Posted by moparmyway

OK, you will hit 140, but I am not so sure about anything faster.
IMHO, glassing is a necessary deed when looking for speeds over 140-145 on a Stryker. If done correctly you MIGHT be able to hit 150, but it is doubtfull. There is only 1 Stryker on the planet that I know of that went over 150 without glassing, and that was TheKid3814 Stryker. He tapped the entire thing (if I remember right), and I am not too sure about his CF layout (if any).

Tapped the whole thing? I am down for whatever CF needed, I have plenty, I also noticed that the two coats of polycrylic really helped stiffen it up even more. I don't know how fast I was going on 4S but I never had a problem and the air frame looked like it could take a lot more speed, this one will be tougher.

Yes, it is doable to make a Stryker go fast with a tape job. I am VERY confident that mine will manage speeds of 175mph if I ever get there (not that this does me much good since the record is 176), but it takes a good amount preparation to do this though.

My carbon/balsa build-up is very well documented in this thread around july/august. I used a lot of carbon shafts 1/8" in diameter laid out in a multiple step A-pattern. Then for main support (the one under the motor), I used a 5/16" hardwood dowel (I believe thats the size, but I never really measured it. I grabbed it and said "This looks like it should fit"). The trailing edge is also hardwood, and the elevons are 1.5" heavy-balsa sanded to shape. The verticals are 1/8" balsa, with more strategic taping. These bend when I run up the 6.5" prop on 5s or higher, but they will not flutter. On the next one, they will be made up of 1.5-2mm carbon flat-stock, or thats the plan

I then did some strategic placement of unidirectional strapping tape (high fiber count) across the top and bottom. The whole thing was then taped laterally with packing tape, after a layer of 3M-77 was sprayed on for adhesion. After this was on, the whole thing was ironed with a mono-kote iron to get any wrinkles out. The elevons were then installed using strapping tape, and a "wiper" (gap-seal) was made out of heavy packing tape. The ailerons are rock solid when using HS-85MGs. I have absolute faith they will never flutter thanks to the wipers.

Mine is pretty light, compared to the rest of the heavies. I don't doubt theirs might be stiffer, but I think mine is stiff enough. I don't encourage everyone to try it, as I have years of taping and over 100 planes worth of experience with it, but it is doable. If someone does choose to tape it, I strongly encourage them to ramp up the speed very slowly, and not ANY change in flight characteristics.

Kid

Build Photos

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/atta...mentid=2639224

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/atta...mentid=2639817

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/atta...mentid=2640475

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/atta...mentid=2651261

I have just finished an FPV Stryker, it weighs about 36oz and I was wondering if anyone knows what I can expect from this airframe at that weight. I have the stock motor and a 3s 2200 pack on her.
Thanks

The stock motor can take a 6.5 x 4 aeronaut or 6.5 x 5 APC pylon prop no problem and will give you much more thrust.

Originally Posted by gotboostedvr6

The stock motor can take a 6.5 x 4 aeronaut or 6.5 x 5 APC pylon prop no problem and will give you much more thrust.

What is the Amp draw with a 6.5x5 prop?

Tarro,


Do you have a wattmeter?

I suggest you read the first few pages of the thread linked below....maybe read the first 5-6 pages out of the 10 page total.
The Amps will apply to 3S as well as 4S.


https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=880705


The difference between the two props which gotboosted mentioned will about 10% A, W (obtained from other testing in similar Watt range).

You did not mention your ESC specs....if stock there has been 2 different ones...(older)2S/3S 25A, and 3S/4S 30A (newer)



Gryphon