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Mar 14, 2009, 04:38 PM
Registered User
vintage1's Avatar
Looks like we are singing from the same hymn sheet on this one.

Carving wood is not half as hard as people think it is. I've got even a big prop down to 2-3 hours. As long as its accurately cut and laminated..
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Mar 19, 2009, 01:55 PM
Registered User
cmcilwee's Avatar
Hi Seamus,
Took me a little while to get here....very impressed with your progress, keep it up!, watching from the side-lines, not much I can advise with, but will try!

Cliff
Mar 22, 2009, 12:35 PM
Bleriot's R Us
xairflyer's Avatar
Glad you found it Cliff, keep an eye out for some pram/bicycle wheels for me 14" ideally 36 spokes.
I can get the 9" tail wheel from herbie wheels but the biggest he does is 11", I have asked him about 14" but he would have to make them specially which would be very expensive.
Mar 22, 2009, 03:10 PM
Registered User
cmcilwee's Avatar
Hi Seamus,
Have you tried Halfords?......I could nip down to the one in Coleraine for you??

Or....could keep a eye on the papers for secondhand prams, the "oldish, trditional type pram".

I"ll keep an eye for you.

Cliff
Mar 23, 2009, 08:34 AM
Zor
Zor
Suspended Account
xairflyer

Glad I found this. You may be interested.

Posting deleted due to lack of interest.

Zor
Last edited by Zor; Mar 24, 2009 at 07:51 AM.
Mar 24, 2009, 07:16 AM
Bleriot's R Us
xairflyer's Avatar
Got a nice block of pine to start carving up my tailpost, going to be one of those jobs where 3/4's of it will be on the floor

I have been 'Training' the longerons to bend at the rear by holding them together with clamps for the past week or so.
Mar 27, 2009, 07:12 AM
Bleriot's R Us
xairflyer's Avatar
Have my tailpost done eventually just needs a bit of final sanding and then staining. Took me two evenings of cutting and carving, but worth it in the end, would'nt do it again though

Had to start of with the large block so I could get the grain directions right for max strength especially for the side pieces that hold the longerons together under tension.

I first sawed out the basic shape, then drilled my hole for the rudder hinge support, then it was a matter of carving away till done. Love the grain and will look great when stained up.
Amazing amount of shavings & saw dust on the bench and floor when finished.

I still have to cut a matching curve in the end of the longerons and then glue in a piece of tube to make the half bearing shell for the rudder hinge.
Mar 30, 2009, 08:17 AM
Bleriot's R Us
xairflyer's Avatar
I have the 2 shell bearings made to fit onto the tailpost, wondering what would be the best glue to use aluminium to the wood, some epoxy's are better than others.
Mar 30, 2009, 08:50 AM
Registered User
Cherokee Flyer's Avatar
I think what ever glue you use would be helped by a pin in the bearing like a car has.
Nice work by the way!!
L.
Mar 30, 2009, 05:22 PM
Registered User
vintage1's Avatar
thoroughly de grease and use polyester or JB weld, or if you must use epoxy, stove for an hour in an oven at 100C or so (200F)
Mar 30, 2009, 06:16 PM
Bleriot's R Us
xairflyer's Avatar
I had thought about polyester resin, also have some JB weld types like stick metal for good etc. I suposed the best bet is to try a few on some off cuts.
Mar 31, 2009, 03:25 PM
Zor
Zor
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by xairflyer
I had thought about polyester resin, also have some JB weld types like stick metal for good etc. I suposed the best bet is to try a few on some off cuts.
Just a thought . . .

As well as the gluing media (whatever you decide on) a small flat headed brass screw in the center with its head recessed in a flare so it does not touch the rudder axis.

I am sure you had your reason to use aluminum as a rudder hinge bushing.
Not the usual material for bushings.

Are you providing for an alemite?

Zor
Mar 31, 2009, 03:56 PM
Bleriot's R Us
xairflyer's Avatar
Yes like the idea of a small screw countersunk into the shell.

Aluminium was used because I had some tube the exact size required, the rudder dos'nt move very far and the dowl (hinge pin) on the rudder will also be wrapped in thin brass or copper shim.
Also many of the types did'nt have anything, the rudder was just held on by the straps around the tailpost.

I want it to look right, you can't tell from the pictures of the fullsize what material the shells are made from.
Apr 03, 2009, 06:16 AM
Bleriot's R Us
xairflyer's Avatar
Needed some eyebolts for the bracing on the top rear steering cross member, so I turned some up out of brass. They are threaded 3mm, easy to make once you make the first.
Apr 16, 2009, 08:22 PM
Bleriot's R Us
xairflyer's Avatar
Tail section now about complete, just have to trim down the excess thread from the 'U' bolts and touch them up with some black paint.

Aluminium half shell bearings were glued on with hysol and held in place with a CS head brass screws as suggested by Zor.

After I sanded the end of the longerons to match the curve of the aluminium I glued them in place with Aliphatic Resin along with a gusset of wood as the fullsize.

When the varnish was dry I added in the remainder of the rigging wires which has made the structure now very solid.

Note
Picture of the fullsize tail section is very yellow due to the light


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