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May 10, 2009, 01:11 PM
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if you know and confident of what you are doing, why not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chewytm
What I have are Futaba 10C, 9CHP and an EVO12. Now, would you really want to cut into those?

chewy
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May 10, 2009, 04:35 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by chewytm
There is no problem when both ground wires are connected. There may be a problem when there is a signal voltage to the input of the ic, and no reference "0" volts. Bad things can happen then

chewy
Ok that seems to make sense, i'll have to check that out...i forgot about the signal being 0.73volts
May 10, 2009, 04:39 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by chewytm
What I have are Futaba 10C, 9CHP and an EVO12. Now, would you really want to cut into those?

chewy
Why not? if all goes wrong at least you'll have an excuse to spend some more money
May 10, 2009, 08:11 PM
I enjoy the voices
Lead Wings's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by jfpdavis
This is true, but as far as i can tell this has only an effect when you throw the switch when the transmitter is on, so if you switch between 2.4 and 35 whilst on. I only switch between the two when the transmitter is off. This can happen due to a bounce in the switch where boths grounds on the switch are momentarily connected.

I'll keep a look out for any glitches though and let people know when and if anything happens.
I had it connected the old way in mine for a few months, and actually switched between them when the system was live and had no problems.

The reason I originally didn't want to switch the signal as because I was concerned about "noise" throught he switch contacts - but again that doesn't seem to be an issue.

Ive changed it now so that it's the signal and +ive switching as it makes sense to have the ground permanently connected. Really I guess you only need a switch on the +ive to save power?
May 10, 2009, 08:13 PM
allthingsthatfly.com
GFBurke's Avatar
The dx6i takes the AAs, and I know I can use a 2s lipo in the DX6i. Is the 2s lipo going to supply enough juice to the assan x8d?
Just a thought I had...
May 10, 2009, 08:39 PM
Registered User
My wife would kill me if I buy another tx! She already had a knife in her hand at one point.

As for the 10C, maybe after the warantee expires. And the Evo12, maybe after I have sent it back for the upgrade. Anyway, with that number of tx, I just leave my Evo with the original ASSAN beta module and the 10C with the Faast. I sometimes switch modules between Faast and Spektrum on the 10C. But I leave the 9C on 72MHz. Now, why would I need to make holes in my perfectly nice tx's?

chewy
May 11, 2009, 01:44 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lead Wings
I had it connected the old way in mine for a few months, and actually switched between them when the system was live and had no problems.

The reason I originally didn't want to switch the signal as because I was concerned about "noise" throught he switch contacts - but again that doesn't seem to be an issue.

Ive changed it now so that it's the signal and +ive switching as it makes sense to have the ground permanently connected. Really I guess you only need a switch on the +ive to save power?
The reason for switching +ve is both to save power and prevent that the 35/72MHz part occupies a channel when in 2.4 mode (it might transmit even if PPM signal is not present).
The reason for switching the PPM line is that the two circuits might disturb each other dependent on how the input parts handles the PPM signal.

Fred
May 11, 2009, 03:27 AM
I enjoy the voices
Lead Wings's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by flarssen
The reason for switching +ve is both to save power and prevent that the 35/72MHz part occupies a channel when in 2.4 mode (it might transmit even if PPM signal is not present).
The reason for switching the PPM line is that the two circuits might disturb each other dependent on how the input parts handles the PPM signal.

Fred
Thanks Fred, good thought. So sounds like the best bet is still a double throw switch on +ive and signal.
May 12, 2009, 09:21 AM
Registered User
codezilla's Avatar
Is there a way to detect if I'm getting the PPM signal to the module? I wanna know if I can somehow measure PPM signal. The reason I'm asking is that I'm installing the module on my Multiplex Cockpit MM, but I just can't get it to work. The module works on my EVO 9, but not on the Cockpit which is strange because it's supposed to be exactly the same when connected via trainer port. When I power on the Tx, the LED on the module just stays solid red, and I'm suspecting it's not getting the PPM signal whereas on EVO there's one long beep then turns green.

Adrian
May 12, 2009, 04:24 PM
Registered User
codezilla's Avatar
I measured the PPM Output voltage of my cockpit, and it is 5V compared to 6.5V for the Evo. Does this have anything to do with my module not working with the Cockpit?

Any help appreciated.

Adrian
May 13, 2009, 12:50 AM
Registered User
WimH's Avatar
Don't think so, my module works ok in there (no flight testing yet though...)

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...1&postcount=12
May 13, 2009, 01:36 AM
Registered User

convertion of Futaba 7C Assn X8-D


Quote:
Originally Posted by Lead Wings
Thanks Fred, good thought. So sounds like the best bet is still a double throw switch on +ive and signal.
Hello lead,
My name is ashta.

The Assan X8-D module arrived from Hobbycity yday and i made the required modification on my 7CH futaba as info given in the Hack module forum. Evry thing worked as per it should and i kept my pane ready to be tried yday night. Also kept my Xmitter for overnight charging.
Today morning, when i switched on the xmitter, instead of Green LED, it switched on with RED led on and no beep.
I had to bind the Receiver again for it to work. Pl note that i had binded the receiver last night.
This happened twice with the Assan module in one day. Is it normal. I was thinking that if i bind a reciever once, i do not have to bind it again at all.
pl advize
best regards
ashta
May 13, 2009, 03:19 PM
Registered User
make sure there's no jitter in your ch2 stick else it will be mistaken as you want to rebind. check your stick or check the potentiometer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ashtasky
Hello lead,
My name is ashta.

The Assan X8-D module arrived from Hobbycity yday and i made the required modification on my 7CH futaba as info given in the Hack module forum. Evry thing worked as per it should and i kept my pane ready to be tried yday night. Also kept my Xmitter for overnight charging.
Today morning, when i switched on the xmitter, instead of Green LED, it switched on with RED led on and no beep.
I had to bind the Receiver again for it to work. Pl note that i had binded the receiver last night.
This happened twice with the Assan module in one day. Is it normal. I was thinking that if i bind a reciever once, i do not have to bind it again at all.
pl advize
best regards
ashta
May 13, 2009, 09:45 PM
I enjoy the voices
Lead Wings's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by ashtasky
Hello lead,
My name is ashta.

The Assan X8-D module arrived from Hobbycity yday and i made the required modification on my 7CH futaba as info given in the Hack module forum. Evry thing worked as per it should and i kept my pane ready to be tried yday night. Also kept my Xmitter for overnight charging.
Today morning, when i switched on the xmitter, instead of Green LED, it switched on with RED led on and no beep.
I had to bind the Receiver again for it to work. Pl note that i had binded the receiver last night.
This happened twice with the Assan module in one day. Is it normal. I was thinking that if i bind a reciever once, i do not have to bind it again at all.
pl advize
best regards
ashta
Ashta,

You should only have to bind your Rx's once, then they should be fine from then on - and not need to be re-bound.

Normally when you switch your Tx on, with no Rx on, the Tx will start red for 1-2 second then go green. As yours stays read, it sounds like the problem is with your Tx going into bind mode each time you switch it on.

Someone had a biding problem recently and found it was because they had the wrong mode (ie mode 1 throttle on right, mode 2 throttle on left) selected in their Tx. This meant that the bind channel was the throttle channel, so set to zero when they turned their Tx on so went into bind mode. Maybe check that?

This forum has a lot more discussion on problems people have had with binding etc - if you don't solve it, I usggest you post the question there - people are very helpful:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...23343&page=219
May 13, 2009, 09:47 PM
I enjoy the voices
Lead Wings's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by codezilla
I measured the PPM Output voltage of my cockpit, and it is 5V compared to 6.5V for the Evo. Does this have anything to do with my module not working with the Cockpit?

Any help appreciated.

Adrian
Note I measured my PPM with a normal volt meter, then a EE mate said this is pointless - as it's a PWM signal you just get an average, not the peak value which is what counts.

You need a cathode ray oscilloscope or a peak level meter to measure the peak value of the PPM


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