Originally Posted by Sixter

I 've used Krylon H2O Spray Paint successful on EPP for years. I have depleted my supply of Krylon H2O paint. Now, I found that it is no longer available! Which Spray Can Paints are you guys using on EPP? The thing I liked about the Krylon H2O was all I did was mask off an area and spray it! Suggestions will be appreciated

Bobby

Krylon Short Cuts work very well on EPP.

I've been painting doculam and have finally bought a airbrush which I'm enjoying, I paint the inside of the covering so there's no final coat, my newest is a ghost flame job on my stinger 120, the airbrush is the way to go, paint is cheap and goes a long way, stencils are easy to make and use

I have decided on coffee filters and 60/40 Titebond II - water with a Polycrylic covering to go over balsa and FFF. It provides a reasonably hard shell and sands smooth.

I did some trial and error with ideas in Hoppy's newspaper glue covering thread:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ng-improvement

I'm looking for a recommendation for painting over this. I'm not equipped with a spray gun / compressor, so looking more for a rattle can solution. I believe the covering can take paints that would eat foam. I don't think brushing on something would look good. I figure several light coats would work the best.

Color scheme will be primarily white and silver with some navy and gold trim.

Clear coat is something I'll consider but not an absolute requirement.

Thanks.

a harbor freight airbrush is like 10 dollars, and easy to use, the paints are a dollar and the go a long way, not to mention all the colors you could want. If you have to go spray can, I would prime it sand the primer mostly off, and then buy one brand of paint for the colors, and hope for the best, krylon would be the easiest to use, my problems never occurred with the base coat, it was when I did the trim color, it never came out right, the airbrush solved all of my problems, well enough to try a flame job.

Been a while since I've been back in this thread. But I did learn a lot way back when that I'm still using. Don't remember if I saw anyone post about straining paints before use. After not using some colors (16oz bottles of Createx) I noticed that some of the pigments clumped and no amount of shaking broke them up fully. I went to the local discount store and picked up some small drain strainers (similar to these) and poured the paint through them. Initially I was straining into a jar and then back into the bottles but today I simply strained as I filled the 4oz gravity feed on my spray gun. I have to say the painting went MUCH smoother with no blips in the paint flow. So if you are having brush/gun clogging issues, this is a cheap fix (I think I paid $1.99 for 2) and worth a try.

Coreman, you need to use actual paint strainers. Available in different mesh sizes for only 5 bucks per hundred at Harbor Freight and all big box DIY stores for a bit more. Those sink strainers do not have a fine enough mesh to block all the debris.

I have been spraying paint for decades, from HVLP, detail guns, airbrushes, etc. And I can tell you straight up that straining every drop put through the guns has saved me a LOT of problems.

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...aint+Strainers

Tom

Originally Posted by T_om

Coreman, you need to use actual paint strainers. Available in different mesh sizes for only 5 bucks per hundred at Harbor Freight and all big box DIY stores for a bit more. Those sink strainers do not have a fine enough mesh to block all the debris.

I have been spraying paint for decades, from HVLP, detail guns, airbrushes, etc. And I can tell you straight up that straining every drop put through the guns has saved me a LOT of problems.

https://www.harborfreight.com/catalo...aint+Strainers

Tom

Yeah, I'm using a fan tip 4oz detail gun (from harbor freight) with plexiglass stencils. The strainers I pointed to seemed to help with the initial problem today. What mesh size would you recommend for unthinned createx? Going to be a couple of days until I get to my local HF

I use the 60/70 mesh most often. 110/120 for really thin materials.

Tom

Originally Posted by T_om

I use the 60/70 mesh most often. 110/120 for really thin materials.

Tom

Thanks Tom. I'll be out by my local Harbor Freight on monday and grab some