1/5.5 Seafury fiberglass fuse build - RC Groups
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This thread is privately moderated by fw190, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Jan 12, 2009, 03:32 AM

1/5.5 Seafury fiberglass fuse build

This is a Jerry Bates design of a 1/5.6 scale Seafury. I am building a fuselage plug that will be molded. Here is the specs on the flying model.

Click here for the complete thread https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=982654

Plans and accessories - Available from Jerry Bates http://www.jbplans.com
Wing Span 81.25"
Power ST3250 G45, I will be powering with Zenoah G62
Weight 18-24 lbs.
Retracts are from Sierra Giant http://www.sierragiant.com

Comments and suggestions are welcome!
Last edited by fw190; Feb 02, 2009 at 02:18 AM.
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Jan 12, 2009, 03:38 AM
This is what the full scale looks like and the color scheme I am going to use.
Jan 12, 2009, 03:41 AM
This is what the retracts look like from Sierra Giant, it is pricey at $650 but with good reasons as it looks like the real thing, just awesome.
Jan 12, 2009, 10:48 AM
This is what the fuselage initially looked like before adding a few things to the fuselage. I had to cut the fin off and part of the tail area because it wasn't right. I must have used half a gallon of bondo (evercoat, whatever I could get my hands on) to smooth this fuselage. It must weigh in over 10 lbs but I am glad its not flying.
Last edited by fw190; Jan 14, 2009 at 04:23 AM.
Jan 12, 2009, 11:01 AM
The front area of the fuselage is recessed to have the cowl fit over for a snug fit. I am glad I only need to do this once as it takes a bit of time to have a clean lines and keyed to cowl.
Jan 12, 2009, 11:06 AM
The exhaust area took the most time as it really need to be planned and lot of sanding and filling. There are several plates and compound curves to the exhaust to make it appear like the full scale version. Not to mention there is a left and right and they must mirror each other or its just not worth going forward. I have had to redo some areas twice just to get it right.
Jan 12, 2009, 11:17 AM
Next was the canopy frame... I have made several warbird fuselages and I just love having canopy frames as it really adds the 3D effect of a model and it sure looks great when painted. Here is what the plug looks like after a few days of work. I fiber glassed several layers of cloth over my canopy and removed it, drew on the windows (this took the longest time to do as it needs to be right) I needed a lot of information, 3 views, pics just to get this to look right.

I cut the windows out using a Dremel close enough to the lines and then used several shaped files and sandpaper to smooth out the cuts.
Jan 12, 2009, 11:24 AM
Tail feathers...

I glued in the vertical fin and smooth the transition to the fuselage. I also glued in the horizontal stab and feathered that to the fuselage as well. Eventually the stab will be cut off just near the tail fairing before molding. I need the full, less stab tips, to makes sure all the measurements and incidence are correct. The big advantages of having a fiberglass fuselage is the time saving of not having to add fillets for the wing and the tail feathers, if executed correctly no work has to be done besides mounting the wing and tail feathers, not to mention you don't have to build a fin.
Last edited by fw190; Jan 15, 2009 at 10:28 AM.
Jan 12, 2009, 12:10 PM
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k_sonn's Avatar
This looks awesome.
Jan 13, 2009, 09:59 AM
Thanks Kirk! I am hoping to finish this project this month.

Sorry about the pics not being as clear as it should be, I am using my Iphone to take shots because I hate looking for my camera and I can always find my phone, even in my messy workshop.
Last edited by fw190; Jan 14, 2009 at 04:25 AM.
Jan 13, 2009, 10:05 AM
I am trying an automotive primer surfacer as it goes on thick with one application rather than use half a dozen rattle can primer for the recessed panel lines. The product is called Polyprimer, a hi-fill polyester primer surfacer from PCL.
Jan 13, 2009, 10:08 AM
Here it is the very next day ready for sanding, next will be to remove the 1/64th panel line tape.
Jan 14, 2009, 03:45 AM
After 3 hours of sanding and removing the panel lines she is smoooooooth! The primer sands like a dream and leaves a nice smooth surface. It took a bit of sanding because I went a little heavy near the panel lines, in fact I had to sand a lot on some places to find the panel line tape.
Jan 14, 2009, 03:50 AM
The next step is to simulate the panel overlap on the wing fairing. After drawing out the overlaped edge using a template I place several layers of tape to mask out the Bondo filler. This will give me a clean edge once the tape is removed.
Last edited by fw190; Jan 14, 2009 at 12:23 PM.

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