Dirty Birdy 60 with 10S A123 for SPA - RC Groups
Thread Tools
Jan 01, 2009, 06:16 PM
Registered User
MorrisM's Avatar
Build Log

Dirty Birdy 60 with 10S A123 for SPA


For the New Year I have started my Dirty Birdy build. This is my first build log, so please be patient with me.

This is the Bluejay kit, but I am going to use foam wing and stab.

The power will be a Scorpion 4025-12 and 10S A123 battery. The Dewalt battery looks like it will fit just right in the tank compartment.

Starting with the fuse.

Links:
Senior pattern Association
http://www.seniorpattern.com/
Bluejay Airplane Kits. They have most of the classic Bridi kits.
http://www.bridiairplanes.com/
Last edited by MorrisM; Jan 02, 2009 at 08:29 AM.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Jan 02, 2009, 05:45 AM
Registered User
MorrisM's Avatar
The fuse is coming along. I need to get the wing and stab done before I can do much more on the fuse.
Jan 02, 2009, 05:50 AM
Registered User
MorrisM's Avatar
The motor and battery. I decided to make a bottom hatch. I didnt think a top hatch would work because of the long canopy.
Jan 02, 2009, 01:21 PM
jrb
jrb
Member
jrb's Avatar
Looking good Morris!
Jan 02, 2009, 04:26 PM
Registered User
MorrisM's Avatar
Thanks JRB. You may have noticed this is the same battery/motor I recommended in the Intruder thread. The 10S A123 is about 4oz heavier than the 6S 3700 lipo I used in the intruder.

I went to a friends house today and cut the stab cores. I haven't done any hot wire foam cutting in 15+ years. They turned out fine. The same friend gave me the wing cores. They were purchased in 1983 from Wing Manufacturing. They are still in good shape after 25 years in the attic.

The next step is sheeting the wing and stab cores.
Jan 02, 2009, 07:45 PM
jrb
jrb
Member
jrb's Avatar
I too have a 25year old Wing Mfg wing kit -- generic, not for anything specific!
Jan 02, 2009, 08:57 PM
Registered User
pda4you's Avatar
Subscribe - looks good.......

Mike
Jan 02, 2009, 09:35 PM
Recruiter - 60 Amp Club
Ed Lyerly's Avatar
Hi Morris,
Thanks for doing this build thread . The one concern I have is that you will be nose heavy. I think you need to get those batteries further back. A top hatch or a pocket in the center of the wing would allow that.
I'll be following with great interest .
Ed
Jan 03, 2009, 01:03 PM
Registered User
MorrisM's Avatar
Hi Ed.
I really don't want to move the batteries back past the leading edge of the wing. It would be alot more work. How about I put a pair of elevator servos in the tail? I will also have a receiver battery I can put aft of the CG.
Morris
Jan 03, 2009, 04:57 PM
Recruiter - 60 Amp Club
Ed Lyerly's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MorrisM
Hi Ed.
I really don't want to move the batteries back past the leading edge of the wing. It would be alot more work. How about I put a pair of elevator servos in the tail? I will also have a receiver battery I can put aft of the CG.
Morris
Morris,
It may not be a problem, but I'm pretty sure you will end up adding lead to the tail. If I were you, I would put rudder and elevator servos under the stab, then maybe add a hatch to the fuselage bottom (as far back as you can) and put the receiver pack there too. You might also consider a 4020 motor .... they are good for a 1.75 oz weight savings in the nose and are good to 1500 watts.
Hope that helps.
Ed
Jan 03, 2009, 07:39 PM
Registered User
MorrisM's Avatar
Ed, I wasn't too worried about balance, but now I am a bit concerned. I will certainly keep all your suggestions in mind. Thanks for the input.

I tried something new. I sheeted the stab with polyurethane glue instead of epoxy like we used to do. I think it came out OK, but I'm not sure I like the method. I probably just need more practice.

Here's some pics..... More to come, hopefully tomorrow.
Morris
Jan 04, 2009, 05:32 PM
Registered User
MorrisM's Avatar
Bad news. One of the stabs had a slight bend. Deciding if I want to use it anyway, cut new cores and try it again, or build up the rib stab from the kit.

I have been rounding off and hollowing out the nose. I have the motor mounted, but I am really having to hollow out the bottom block to make it fit.

Morris
Jan 04, 2009, 05:42 PM
Recruiter - 60 Amp Club
Ed Lyerly's Avatar
Looking good Morris ! There is a LOT of sanding and carving with the older kits.
I would get a new set of foam stab cores. You can get them here:
http://www.eurekaaircraft.com/
Ed
Jan 10, 2009, 09:48 AM
Registered User
MorrisM's Avatar
Ed, I almost ordered new cores from Eureka Aircraft. After much thinking, I decided to go with the stabs I have. There is a slight bend, but no twist and I don't think it will have much adverse effect. I hope not anyway...

So here is what I have done with the stabs.

Morris
Jan 17, 2009, 08:25 AM
Registered User
MorrisM's Avatar
I have started the wing sheeting. I used up the last of my Hobbypoxy formula 2 epoxy. Hobbypoxy glue and paint was good stuff, I wish they were still in business. I used a syringe to apply the epoxy to the foam. It's applied in a crosshatch pattern, then around the edges, and onto the carbon fiber. I used a squeegee to force the epoxy into the carbon.

I haven't sheeted a wing in a long time. I forgot how soft the 1/16 AAA 4-6lb balsa is. The carbon is necessary as the balsa does not have enough strength.

I will have more pics when the wing sheeting is finished.

Morris


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion needed. plans for a dirty birdy 40, i am looking for plans to fix my wounded bird tr miller Competition Aerobatics 1 Nov 10, 2008 09:28 AM
Wanted Dirty Birdy plans, 40-60 size scififlyer Aircraft - General - Miscellaneous (FS/W) 1 May 21, 2006 07:29 AM
Sporty Ep for sale JStory Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W) 3 Oct 29, 2001 09:49 PM