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This thread is privately moderated by superdave42, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Dec 24, 2008, 08:12 PM
Frame Design Engineer
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4#3 Hybrid Bell/Hiller :-0

When I first got my 4#3A I instantly liked it. it flew very well for being so small. Then the never ending urge to MODIFY suddenly took over.

I wanted faster response.

I wanted more agility

I wanted it to look fast standing still.

I just wanted to be different..

So I extended the tail by .5" and installed the 4G3 tail assembly.

Installed some Tuff struts (which looked very funny until I modified them, gave it the rake angle).

Swash support.

Blue -Q grips

Bell/Hiller Mod:

This mod worked out very nicely, gave me exactly the level of response that I had imagined it would.

My first goal was to make it all work with off-the-shelf parts.

it basically consists of:

1. Mixer arm (from 4G3)
2. Mixer arm shoulder screw (from 4G3)
3. Linkages (made from 2nd set of 4#3 dog bones cut 30% off, 4G#3 plastic ball link, the connecting tube is a cut stock ball link shank)
4. Flybar linkage ( stock 4#3)

it's very simple and instantly gratifying.

Pretty much has the cyclic response of the 4G3 now. only tested so far in my living room because it's storming outside.

I'm sure the geometry is not perfect, but it does have a totally different feel now.
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Dec 26, 2008, 05:49 PM
Frame Design Engineer
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Thread OP
Some short videos

4#3B bell-hiller mod 1 (0 min 44 sec)

4#3B bell-hiller control (0 min 16 sec)

4#3B bell-hiller mod 2 (0 min 12 sec)
Jan 07, 2009, 05:53 PM
Frame Design Engineer
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Thread OP


I just realized that all of us that are using the 4G3 mixer arm to perform this mod have the bell/hiller ratio BACKWARDS lol I think it was because the parts just fit better this way. but in reallity what we really want is to have the the Flybar give more input than the swashplate.. like all the other normal B/H mechanics..

hehe yeah it works, but we may just find the flight more enjoyable with the correct ratio allocation.

anyways, not sure if anyone thought about this, I sure did not.

with the correct ratio the flybar will work better and then still allow the direct swash input to help get things going.



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