maybe I will have to see the plane first, then make a decesion.

I like the idea of velcro. That stuff from HK is super strong!!

Originally Posted by Theladon

If hobbyking could name the SkySurfer after Josh Bixler (great guy) they DEFENITLY should rename the AXN Floater "The Bruce" after Bruce Simpson (xjet, rcmodelrewievs)
I have never seen a guy promote something so much without getting a cent in return.
Shame on you Hobbyking.

I hereby propose we unofficialy rename the AXN "The Bruce"

Yes, I second...third......that opinion. Bruce is "Mr AXN" for all intents and purposes. Although I would go with the opinion to call it the "XJet" - sounds better to me.

After all, look at all the posts to this thread, I dare say that most are because of the videos and thoughts/help/advice shared by Bruce in his AXN videos. Once word of the AXN got out there...sales and interest really took off.

Start with a Sim..then buy an AXN..watch the videos and your flying...and for very little $$$.

As of today just look at the number of posts and views on this thread, it's crazy! A testimony to the AXN and Bruce getting the word out...

-mike-

Originally Posted by hendrnk

4) just need needle pliers or small snifter to tighten up the nut. Use blue lock tight and don't tighten the nut to much as it needs move with the moving servo arm.

Hmm, I may have overtightened mine. Do I understand correctly that the grub screw gets fully tightened, so the push rod can't move, but the actual linkage connection (the whole brass thingy) should be allowed to rotate a bit as the servo arm travels?

Also, I followed Bruce's guide to the letter, including getting his recommended 6x5e prop and a nice collet adapter. It all went together beautifully, but I did make sure to triple check everything and take my time during the build. Committing to gluing the wings in place made me a bit nervous, but it sure is strong!

I had a servo crap out on me before the maiden, so as soon as the new one arrives I'll finally be able to take this thing out. I've gone from a stock NmH Super Cub, to Lipo, to a 480 motor and ailerons, to a T-28 Trojan (still stock), so I'm really looking forward to this plane and it's wide performance envelope between gliding and surprisingly fast.

Cheers!

Originally Posted by Oakstone

Hmm, I may have overtightened mine. Do I understand correctly that the grub screw gets fully tightened, so the push rod can't move, but the actual linkage connection (the whole brass thingy) should be allowed to rotate a bit as the servo arm travels?

Yes the "Brass Thingy" goes in one of the control horn holes (usually one of the outer ones for a beginner so your throws aren't too big). Or if the "Brass Thingy" is on the servo arm it is much the same but the CF usually has it in the second to outer hole (often needs a drill through to get it in).

When it is in there (either horn or servo arm) it needs to be able to fully rotate without coming loose. (some put a tiny drop of CA on the nut but don't get it on the rotating part!!)

Then the push rod goes in and is held solid by the grub screw at the correct length to have the surface in the neutral position when the servo is centered. (don't get your surfaces adjusted by the radio trims ... this is for trimming not setting up.)

I planning to get my axn to fpv saw this post on the other thread seem nice clean build

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...9&postcount=20

but my concern is will it effect the stiffness of the whole structure after it being cut like that? as a belly lander you will need the belly to be tought unless i have a landing skid

I have a spare Hawk Sky motor (Dynam Speed 400 Brushless), would it be a good or terrible idea to replace my CF motor with this in order to get more power? It's a straight fit.

Here are the specs:
---
Size: 28.80mm (Dia.) x 27.00mm (L) (excluding shaft)
Weight: 42.8g
Shaft: 2.90mm (Dia.)
K/V: 1750
Working Current: 1.8 - 13A
Battery: 2 to 3 cells Lipo batteries (or equivalent Ni-xx batteries)

Motor Test Results:
1. Direct Drive fitted with a 9 x 4 prop and operating of a 7.4V 2 cell Li-po drawing 10.9A current delivered 416 grams/ 14.7 oz thrust

2. Direct Drive fitted with a 8 x 4 prop and operating off a 11.1V 3 cell Li-po drawing 10.5A current draw delivered 515 grams/ 18.2 oz of thrust.
---

Originally Posted by irodrigo

I have a spare Hawk Sky motor (Dynam Speed 400 Brushless), would it be a good or terrible idea to replace my CF motor with this in order to get more power? It's a straight fit.

Here are the specs:
---
Size: 28.80mm (Dia.) x 27.00mm (L) (excluding shaft)
Weight: 42.8g
Shaft: 2.90mm (Dia.)
K/V: 1750
Working Current: 1.8 - 13A
Battery: 2 to 3 cells Lipo batteries (or equivalent Ni-xx batteries)

Motor Test Results:
1. Direct Drive fitted with a 9 x 4 prop and operating of a 7.4V 2 cell Li-po drawing 10.9A current delivered 416 grams/ 14.7 oz thrust

2. Direct Drive fitted with a 8 x 4 prop and operating off a 11.1V 3 cell Li-po drawing 10.5A current draw delivered 515 grams/ 18.2 oz of thrust.
---

not sure with the props selection but I'm using 6x4 already have a little space left to the boom, most probably the you can't use 8" or 9" props on axn unless you did some modification on the motor mount

I'll go for 2200kv from rctimer or the turnigy 2200kv for power need bigger esc (40A) but it will be power hungry

Originally Posted by skellator

I planning to get my axn to fpv saw this post on the other thread seem nice clean build

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...9&postcount=20

but my concern is will it effect the stiffness of the whole structure after it being cut like that? as a belly lander you will need the belly to be tought unless i have a landing skid

You don't need to cut a bloody great hole in the bottom of your AXN for either video or FPV, which seems to be asking for a broken fuse. 1st photo shows an 808 #11 keychain camera with wide angle lens mounted right at the nose of the AXN. It gives HD video without having the nose of the AXN in the picture. Video so far has been a bit rocky but I have just installed an OrangeRX, which seems to be stabilising the plane. More tuning needed before video post. The camera is held on with rubber bands and a cord back to the battery leads, so it can't fall off.

2nd photo shows an FPV "backpack" as devised by Bruce Simpson aka XJet. As you see it is on a flat coroplast base which allows it to be moved from aircraft to aircraft. It is on a foam block cut to shape for the AXN here. It uses the HK 5.8GHz gear and has transmitted to an LCD screen in my workshop, It is waiting for the completion of two cloverleaf antennae before testing in the field. It may be possible to mount it on the flat part of the cockpit, depending on CG.

So many projects, so little time! But the keychain cameras are a really easy and cheap way to record video, which can also be easily used on multiple aircraft.

Whoops!, forgot the photos . No holes cut in the fuse for either keychain or FPV camera, and they can both be moved easily from aircraft to aircraft.

Originally Posted by mutha

Yes the "Brass Thingy" goes in one of the control horn holes (usually one of the outer ones for a beginner so your throws aren't too big). Or if the "Brass Thingy" is on the servo arm it is much the same but the CF usually has it in the second to outer hole (often needs a drill through to get it in).

When it is in there (either horn or servo arm) it needs to be able to fully rotate without coming loose. (some put a tiny drop of CA on the nut but don't get it on the rotating part!!)

Then the push rod goes in and is held solid by the grub screw at the correct length to have the surface in the neutral position when the servo is centered. (don't get your surfaces adjusted by the radio trims ... this is for trimming not setting up.)

Thanks very much for the clarification. I've never used that particular type of push rod connector before. They've always had the bend in the metal at the servo and a threaded clevis on the other end for the surface.

I also did have the rudd/elevator push rods going straight back, not crossing over each other, so I've remedied that too and things are much much smoother.

Again, much appreciated!

I see the latest is two SPWs now and no need for clover leafs. On the base I have a SPW and a Helical. The Helicals are great and do not take long to make.,

How do you go with the camera in that location? I had one there but pointed it down quite a bit so I could get my bearings and got a lot of nose in the screen.

Originally Posted by richard9999

Whoops!, forgot the photos . No holes cut in the fuse for either keychain or FPV camera, and they can both be moved easily from aircraft to aircraft.

How do you go with the camera in that location?

I assume you are talking about the FPV camera on the backpack? - I haven't tried it yet in flight, but have a longer lens as well as the w/a lens. I tried it in my workshop and, yes, you see quite a bit of the AXN nose (as would a real pilot). I don't think the AXN would balance with the FPV gear at the front. As for the keychain camera mounted at the front, it gives a completely unobstructed view.

If you know where you are when flying FPV then the angle but I need a LOT of ground to keep my bearings even though you can tilt your nose down when flying to see where you are.

I only use 2.8mm lenses to get a nice wide view to help see where you are going. https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=21284 Looks like you have a great FPV camera.

I have to put extra weight on the nose of mine as I have the servos outside the body near the rear of the wing like the EasyStar. By doing that there is a massive area in the body.

Originally Posted by richard9999

I assume you are talking about the FPV camera on the backpack? - I haven't tried it yet in flight, but have a longer lens as well as the w/a lens. I tried it in my workshop and, yes, you see quite a bit of the AXN nose (as would a real pilot). I don't think the AXN would balance with the FPV gear at the front. As for the keychain camera mounted at the front, it gives a completely unobstructed view.

With the newer 808 #16 camera you can do away with the second (FPV) camera as it now has video out. So for basic FPV with HD recording on the aircraft, all you need is the #16 and a VTX.

A mate had one of those using it as you said and lost video while flying.

Apparently if the camera looses power for an instant you totally lose video until you push the buttons again.

Not sure if it was caused because he just used a plug in the video out and it lost connection. Maybe worthwhile wiring it into the camera and not use the video out plug.

Originally Posted by Aus

With the newer 808 #16 camera you can do away with the second (FPV) camera as it now has video out. So for basic FPV with HD recording on the aircraft, all you need is the #16 and a VTX.