|
|
|
My stock ESC would not even start the motor! HK replaced it with a different one. I now use an 18A Turnigy Plush ESC with mine, but I have it in the nose of the plane right behind one of the nose air inlet holes, both for balance (I use 1300 mAH 3S lipos) and good cooling.
|
|
|
|
|
||
|
Quote:
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
Saufett, glad to here your enjoying the CF. Flies great doesn't it!
I got some really nice footage by mounting a keychain cam on the nose (used a round velcro and a rubber band) and moved the battery aft a tad. BUT ... when I landed it I noticed that I had a magnet displaced ... long story short and a video of this stuff later ... however a few questions I need some help with: Explanation: Being a really clever modeller I used some thread lock on the grub screws for the motor ... well, seemed to be the right thing to do ... I have now broken 3 1.5mm hex keys trying to get at the motor I eventually had to muscle the 4 mounting plate screws off. I popped off the C-clip and removed the magnet housing and glued all that up (no mean feat when you are old and can't see anymore!) Trying to re-attach the mounting plate** I couldn't get the bolts to thread into the nuts - they ran away into the foam. So I removed the plastic mounting plate and dug the screws out of the foam, epoxyed them onto the plate - all good now. **Questions: What glue should I use for putting the plate back on the foam? (Would a gorilla glue [vise in OZ] work OK as I may want to remove it later for upgrades and think epoxy may be a bit too much) In line with that thought and addressing the C-clip - I am thinking that the clip doesn't need to go back on as it is a pusher and will not dislodge the motor - thus making later upgrades and motor removal easier as I will not have to address the F@#!#$! grub screws until I am ready to drill them out at the motors end of life. Also the reason I don't want to use epoxy with the plastic mount plate is to allow me to get it back off easier when and if I upgrade the motor. Thoughts on my thinking??? All and any help appreciated. |
|
|
|
|
|
I used low temp hot glue.. worked quite well so far.. and put it only in the outer border so when i need to remove it i can use a razor to cut throught
|
|
|
|
||
|
Quote:
I fly WOT a lot. Probably half the time. I would say my plane is faster than the other 3 Clouds Flys at our field. It will go straight up and keep going (albeit slowly) during the first minute of the flight. Motor base plate stays cool even with long WOT which is what I shoot for. faster/power/amps depends a lot on the brand and style of prop. Same RPM means same amps. Higher RPM means less amps. If a 5x5 and a 6x3.5 tach and amp the same on the ground, then the 6x3.5 will probably unload more in the air for higher RPM and less amps and less heat. A 6x4 is what the EasyStar guys use on 2200KV motors (about what the CF has) and pull 20+ amps. I probably would not want to run 5 minutes at WOT with a 6x4 like I do with my 6x3.5. Cliff |
|
|
||
|
||
|
Quote:
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
The motor on mine fried itself so I replaced it with a 2165 Kv Hyperion P1919-04.
I had to mod the motor mount to fit it. I cut a 3 ply plate and screwed it to the black back mount with 2 mm countersunk machine screws into the exisiting screw holes. (There are nuts behind the plate) The motor is mounted to this plate. C of G moved back approx 7 mm. The results look impressive. With the stock 5 x 5 prop it's drawing 190 Watts and 22 Amps. Flight performance should be a lot more lively with this motor. I plan to try a 6 x 4 prop after flight testing with the 5 x 5. |
|
|
|
|
|
Just wanted to pop in here and say that I had my maiden with the Clouds Fly...it was great. Did some big circles and figure eights, brought her down. Very nice and easy flying plane, I'm lovin it! This is my first plane and I have been reading all the way through this thread for build options and tips. Keep it up, good stuff!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aint been on this thread for a while.Looks like finally a direct replacement motor for the CF.
http://www.lowpricerc.com/product_in...oducts_id=1052 |
|
|
|
||
|
Quote:
I doubt it will swing a 8x4 prop very well or very long on 3s. Probably a 6x4 on 3s. It has no prop saver studs on it. The price is right. It would be nice to have some indication of max current capacity. |
|
|
||
|
||
|
Quote:
|
|
|
||
|
||
|
Quote:
Experts say a higher C LiPo will not make a difference but they are wrong. It will make it go faster but they say you must be overloading something to make it go faster but it is going faster. In my ElleBee setup I draw 38amps with a 30C LiPo and 62amps with a 40C LiPo. So if I want to run the 40C at fast I need all the equipment to take over 62amps. So I think the 62amp draw is making it go faster than a 38amp draw. Just be careful you can blow things up with 40C LiPos but that is all I have now except the one I have been using in the Floater. Guess the AXN Floater ESC and motor will not be good enough for the 40C LiPo but I'll check the amps it draws tonight. |
|
|
||
|
||
|
Quote:
Sorry, but if your power system is properly sized (motor/prop/battery) going from a 30C pack to a 40C pack will never produced the kind of results you are stating! |
|
|
||
|
||
|
Quote:
I must try as you say soon and try a motor and ESC that will take the amps of the 40C LiPo and then see what the amps are of a lower C LiPo. But thanks for your comments. It looks like I am drawing over the amp limit (C rating) for the LiPo. But to date I have not had the 40C LiPos blow up in size but I was a lot with the 30C. |
|
|
||