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Mar 11, 2003, 05:13 PM
BEC
BEC
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Tom Hunt has always been an advocate of large control surfaces with moderate deflections to achieve desired turn rates...... lower drag that way.

It sounds like the Wasp is on the right track in that regard. I put myself in the queue.
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Mar 12, 2003, 11:29 PM
Crash Master
Gene Bond's Avatar
Hi guys! I've been out of the country for a week, so I missed out on some of the latest testing, but I'll be back to it. Tres and I are seeing some minor difeerences in the motor/prop department, that might be attributed to flying style. Most of the flying characteristics shone through similarly, though. I have not changed anything except trying different power systems yet, but Tres has convinced me to try a couple control changes as well.

David is releasing the kit, and I intend to continue testing some variations, to see if I come up with any different results.

A rudder could easily be added to the current design, by adding the surface in the back, and the servo right above the elevator servo. It may cause a balance problem, or a stability problem, but I think it would be fairly easily worked out. I doubt the additional surface would hurt stability.

It's a nice little plane the way it is. Tres and I are both looking to see if we can help improve it. We may be trying to take it too far, but who knows....
Mar 21, 2003, 01:33 AM
BEC
BEC
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Quote:
Originally posted by genovia
BEC,

You don't need to ask that question, because no matter what. It's the " I have to have one" kicks in .... And it's making me itch towards getting one, but I still have to get a tiny first

genovia.
You were right, Geno. I am now in delivery position number 1 for the production kit .

Genebond, I will want to know about your removable gear mod (if it is a mod).
Mar 21, 2003, 06:47 AM
Crash Master
Gene Bond's Avatar
Hi BEC, It's really more like less of a build than a mod

David has some little ply locking pieces that you rotate 90 degree to lock the gear wire in the slot, and glue down. I just didn't rotate them when I glued them, and used rubber bands to pull the wire up into the slot, tied to the wing hold down dowel. It has proven very durable in lot's of less than perfect landings. I'm sure the wire will eventually waller out the slot, since it can wiggle a little in there, but it can be shimmed later, if needed. I used some ply to reinforce the bottom slot as well. It isn't shown in these pictures.

Here's some pictures.
Last edited by Gene Bond; Mar 21, 2003 at 06:51 AM.
Mar 21, 2003, 10:14 AM
Live to ride... and fly!
Tres Wright's Avatar
I figured since I was glueing the wing on that there wasn't any point in a removable LG on mine I installed it with the little circular pieces rotated to lock the gear, but I didn't see a need for the bottom catch so left it off. I figured this way if I just had to remove the gear, it wouldn't be that hard.

The landing gear design is very sturdy! You can plop this plane down really hard without damaging anything. Plus the gear is well placed, I've been flying exclusively on grass and haven't had a nose-over yet even though my gear is cut down.
Mar 21, 2003, 08:40 PM
Live to ride... and fly!
Tres Wright's Avatar

Updated flight report


I've flown the Wasp several more times since my last flight report. Still doing great! This plane slows down quite nicely, after spending 10 minutes or so this evening flying up high doing some loops and rolls I brought it down to "strafing" level. Tried shooting a touch and go, but I touched and didn't go Need to cut the grass before trying again But I had a lot of fun just flying 3 or 4 feet above the ground carving sharp turns and zipping around the yard and between trees and fences. This is perfect for late evening when it's too dark to fly planes that need more room. In fact, after flying it down low like this a few times, I'm convinced it might make a decent indoor flyer. You wouldn't want to try any aerobatics down low or indoors as it loses some altitude coming out of maneuvers, but it sails around quite nicely down low.

However, all of that is about to change. I'll be strapping an 010 on, probably tonight Don't know yet whether it will be temporary or permanent.
Mar 21, 2003, 09:16 PM
Tee Sqaured
Thomas Manson's Avatar
Hey Tres! Looks GREAT!



I have been hunting around for a long time for a good alieron trainer, since you discribe this plane as a nice flyer, do you think it'll do the job? Im also thinking of building a sport wing for my dandy.



Good work!



Thomas
Mar 21, 2003, 09:27 PM
Crash Master
Gene Bond's Avatar
Quote:
However, all of that is about to change. I'll be strapping an 010 on, probably tonight Don't know yet whether it will be temporary or permanent.
Yea, It's sure a confusing decision! I love the plane with the 180/4:1/K1020, but it flies so well with the IPS-2S/K560, that I find myself switching back and forth. I gave the IPS-A another shot, with the 1047, 0970, and 1080... Liked the speed of the -2S too much, though. The slow was fun, but it's just been too windy to enjoy it outdoors, here.

I did fly it indoors, on about the 3rd pack, until a hit sent it to the floor. It would have been fine in the Golf Dome, here, with plenty of height for loops. I doubt there would have been enough room for rolls, but maybe at the extreme throws I have, or with bigger surfaces, like the kit.

Next time out, I may try a 280DD with a 3 cell Li pack, just for kicks. Doubt it'll ROG with no more thrust than that, but aught to be a blast at that speed. This is fairly low drag, so the speed envelope should be very wide.

Moving the rx to the bottom of the fuse has helped, BTW, seems to have reduced the turbulence under the wing. Also mounting the battery on the side of the fuse helps a lot in the roll department, reducing the pendelum...
Mar 21, 2003, 11:23 PM
BEC
BEC
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Hmmmmm.......

Well, I may split the difference - I think I still have that mis-labeled S1 around.

Gene, thanks for the removable gear pics. I'm always wanting my planes to be as packable as possible, so will follow your example. I'm kind of frustrated with the Tiny-X (and even the Gym-E) on those grounds - no easy way to make it more packable.

By the way, both of you - what does the motor stick look like, and if it is relatively breakable (like Gym-E's) is it replaceable without tearing the nose apart?
Mar 22, 2003, 01:00 AM
Live to ride... and fly!
Tres Wright's Avatar
Thomas-
Thanks for the good words! Dave characterizes the Wasp as an intermediate aileron plane and I would agree with that. It doesn't have the self-correcting tendencies of a dihedral plane and therefore isn't a beginner's ailo plane. But based on how long you've been flying and what you've been flying, I think you could fly it with no trouble though. It depends on what you're looking for, this isn't what I would call a "highly aerobatic" plane like the Tiny, Triangle, Tiny X, etc. It's a more laid back plane for cruising around that does have some aerobatic capabilities when the mood strikes.

Gene-
What prop did you say you're flying on the 2s? I think I had a 7x6 on the s2, I didn't like the way it flew on that. I may need to try whatever you are since it sounds like you're enjoying that setup.

Bernard- the motor mount is actually part of the "fuselage". The fuselage is an upside down "T" in section. The vertical part is balsa, the horizontal is light ply. So the motor mount is an extension of the ply part of the "T". Then it is reinforced with another piece of ply that notches into the vertical balsa. It's VERY strong. If you hit hard enough to break this, you're going to be buying a new kit anyway
Mar 22, 2003, 07:38 AM
Crash Master
Gene Bond's Avatar
> It's a more laid back plane for cruising around that does have some aerobatic capabilities when the mood strikes.
<
With the IPS-A/9x7, this is more like a TigerMoth. With a IPS-2S/7x6, it wakes up a little for more action and speed.

< What prop did you say you're flying on the 2s?
Yes, 7x6 with the 560's. I like an 8x4.3 for slow/indoor with the 560's, and an 8x6 with the 1020's for more speed/power. The 560's struggle with the 8x6...

> If you hit hard enough to break this, you're going to be buying a new kit anyway <
I did crack the ply after a bad nose-in, but it CA'd right back together. It would have broken a foamie in half or more It would have been no biggie to trim out a little of the fuse to scab a piece of spruce in for a new stick, anyway.

Tres: I've noticed a big change since I reduced the incidence to the 1* of the final design. With your glued in wing, it'll be tough to duplicate. Maybe some higher aileron reflex would help counteract? The lower drag makes more things possible, and hasn't seemed to increase the stall speed to me.
Mar 22, 2003, 01:14 PM
BEC
BEC
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I just skimmed the instructions that David's posted on his new web site..... I see about the motor stick now. You're right - it would take one heck of a smack to break that off.

Gene, if the Wasp works with an S2/7X6 setup, I could put the PJS outrunner I have in one Wing-E on this....... hmmmmmmm......
Mar 22, 2003, 01:17 PM
Crash Master
Gene Bond's Avatar
Quote:
Originally posted by BEC
Gene, if the Wasp works with an S2/7X6 setup, I could put the PJS outrunner I have in one Wing-E on this....... hmmmmmmm......
Hmmm... I'm going to have to find that one, assuming there's some data posted in one of the threads... But, yes, S2 is fun, more is better
Mar 22, 2003, 01:27 PM
Husband, Dad, Skydiver, RC'r
Bill K.'s Avatar
Quote:
Originally posted by BEC
David's posted on his new web site.....
Care to share, where this site is???

Thx
Mar 22, 2003, 01:52 PM
BEC
BEC
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Wow, his announcement's already well down on the second page: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...hreadid=101567


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