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Dec 15, 2008, 08:55 AM
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Build Log

Lacey M-10 Build Log


I'Ve started my first Peanut Scale build. I'm working on the Peck Polymers Lacey M-10. My intention is to make this three channel RC. I'd like to use DSM2 electronics or maybe Plantraco. My next indoor fly is January 10th. I'd like to maiden by then.

I thought this would be quick and easy. My opinion so far is, this is much more difficult than a larger airplane. Everything is so small and breakable. Here is what I got so far.
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Dec 15, 2008, 01:24 PM
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I spent many years in Free Flight Rubber Band airplanes. They are very challenging since they are generally stick and tissue and are extremely light. What kind of covering are you going to use. If anything but tissue stengthening considerations should be made. To me, if a rubber band can fly it at contest levels, the little extra weight from extra strength should be no problem. This looks really good. I definitely want to see your progress.

Good job.
Dec 15, 2008, 09:38 PM
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rockom's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kgreen6982
I spent many years in Free Flight Rubber Band airplanes. They are very challenging since they are generally stick and tissue and are extremely light. What kind of covering are you going to use. If anything but tissue stengthening considerations should be made. To me, if a rubber band can fly it at contest levels, the little extra weight from extra strength should be no problem. This looks really good. I definitely want to see your progress.

Good job.
Thanks.

I plan on using the tissue included with the kit. I'd like to keep it as light as possible so I'll have a little more flexibility with electronics.

-Rocko
Dec 17, 2008, 09:14 PM
Just having fun before I die!
BadLemon's Avatar
Hey Rocko

Looks like your off to a good start if you want to use that extra vapor receiver I have your welcome to it. I don't see me using it any time soon. Keep it going!!

Doug
Dec 18, 2008, 12:25 PM
Intermediate Multi
Trisquire's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightz
Thanks.

I plan on using the tissue included with the kit. I'd like to keep it as light as possible so I'll have a little more flexibility with electronics.

-Rocko
You might want to try Esaki, which is lighter and better quality than the domestic tissue in the kit.

Tom
Dec 27, 2008, 11:52 PM
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rockom's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trisquire
You might want to try Esaki, which is lighter and better quality than the domestic tissue in the kit.

Tom
Tom,

Thank for the hint.

-Rocko
Dec 28, 2008, 12:08 AM
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rockom's Avatar

12.27.08 Update


I've spent some more time on the Lacey, below are a fresh bundle of photos. I suppose it looks alright for my first attempt at peanut scale. I definitely need more practice. I'll have plenty as I've collected several more kits recently but I'll save that story for another post.

So, I'm a bit of a perfectionist and I'm not real happy with the way the tail end of the fuse came together. The whole fuse could be a little more square. It's not bad, and certainly should be fine enough. I think all the imperfections I have noted won't make a difference once covered with tissue.

I've learned allot about glue application and control with this project. Hopefully I'll still have more blase than glue on this kit when finished. Thin CA moves fast. Through handling, I've had to re-glue several joints and fix a few snapped pieces.

Here are the photos....
Jan 01, 2009, 05:42 PM
Gravity is a harsh mistress.
Tim Wolff's Avatar
You can save a significant amount of adhesive weight using Superphaltic or Ambroid adhesives. They won't wick all over the place and get lighter as they dry. The Superphaltic debonds with water and Ambroid with Acetone. I usually thin the Ambroid a little with some Acetone so that it penetrates better and is easier to apply.

The fuse looks good so far.

I second the Esaki tissue suggestion.
Jan 01, 2009, 06:13 PM
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rockom's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Wolff
You can save a significant amount of adhesive weight using Superphaltic or Ambroid adhesives. They won't wick all over the place and get lighter as they dry. The Superphaltic debonds with water and Ambroid with Acetone. I usually thin the Ambroid a little with some Acetone so that it penetrates better and is easier to apply.

The fuse looks good so far.

I second the Esaki tissue suggestion.
As I've been building, I kinda wished I'd used an aliphatic glue. Longer dry times but much better for all the reasons you mention. I'm getting ready to build the wing now. I'm kinda playing with different setups trying to figure out how to build it square yet keep it flat.

I haven't heard of Superaliphatic's....what type/brand of glue are you referring too?

Thanks,
-Rocko

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