Another new 2.4GHz system! - Page 342 - RC Groups
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May 11, 2012, 08:43 PM
Curiouser and curiouser
Kokopeli's Avatar
I guess you didn't read message #5106 (the one I was responding to).
It said:
Audio taper is logarithmic, aka exponential... The resistance changes very little at one end and ramps up at the other. I can't think of any practical reason to use audio taper on stick gimbal potentiometers, so this is, in all likelyhood, a non-issue.
That may complete the picture for you, Dave.
Whoops - I forgot to say: Sorry Dave LOL

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May 12, 2012, 08:40 AM
RC beginner
yes, i was aware of who said what and my comment was a result of your response to me not #5106:

Originally Posted by wjbite

Originally Posted by dave1993
.... works for the other sticks too........

[When you read about this, think about HAL's (the computer) voice]
Sorry Dave, that will only work if you can find a tapered pot that is tapered from the middle to both ends.
[Maybe Dave is too young to remember the movie 2001?] LOL
i guess we all agree now replacing pots with logrithmic ones is not an option. not just because they dont make "log from center" type but also the range issue. adding resistors is the practical way for hardware hardware expo anyway.

i recall a couple years ago i was given a very expensive $1000+ radio with a bad pot. quote was over $100 to have it fixed ($30 for just the pot). so thats when i decided to come up with a mod to allow use of a regular off the shelf type. it ended up costing less than a buck including pot to fix. coincidently somebody came to me last week to fix his radio with a pot he damaged while trying to clean. unfortunately i coudnt find the exact values i used to convert a full range to limited range pot. and his tx was not a really expensive unit so i suggested just buy a new one.

kinda like friends and relatives who think i can actually fix their tvs or players. right!
May 12, 2012, 10:33 AM
Registered User

"Another" Programmer

My version of ESU's programmer.
It works fine without external power, powered by the two 18650 cells in the Tx.

Name: programmer4&5.jpg
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Description: Programmer V5(onboard version) and V4 before etching after transfer (on Conrad catalog paper)Name: Imgp1904E.jpg
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Description: PCB V4Name: IMGP2073.jpg
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Description: Programmer V4 + LCDName: IMGP2078.jpg
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Description: LCD Module and ISP TIN connectorsName: IMGP2081.jpg
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Description: ISP TIN to USBASP adapterName: IMGP2079.jpg
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Description: ISP TIN Adapter plugged inName: IMGP2080.jpg
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Description: USBASP connector plugged in ready for programmingName: IMGP2083.jpg
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Description: Programmer with cableName: IMGP2084.jpg
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Description: Programmer Bottom with resin coat ...needs finishingName: IMGP2096.jpg
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Description: Close up of tin connectors from LCDName: IMGP2085.jpg
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Description: Programmer without backlight onName: IMGP2091.jpg
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Description: Programmer with backlight on

Operating Manual: Programmer V4

Schematic and layout for transfer:programmer V4 atmega8

Last edited by eisenficker; May 20, 2012 at 01:00 PM. Reason: updated manual and firmware for heli-items
May 13, 2012, 07:02 AM
Registered User
MoFl's Avatar
Nice pcb! One of the best I've seen without using special toner transfer paper (in the first photo's description you say you're using conrad catalog paper).
Is it similar to Digikey catalog?
Digikey's is very thin (like Bible or phone guide), and slightly glossy. From what I've read, the glossiest and the thinnest the better for this purpose.
Also: Are you using a laminator, or just an iron?
Thanks for sharing your design!
May 13, 2012, 08:09 AM
Registered User
Hi and Thanks! Yes I imagine the Digikey catalog is alike.
In my experience it is always a matter of patience and trial and error to find the 'perfect' printer/toner and paper combination.
I have to prepare the sheets by sticking them with a stripe of paper sticking tape to a normal printing sheet. Else my ancient HP Laserjet 4+ refuses to transport the paper.
The other item is that the fusing temperature of the HP (Canon engine) is quite high at 175C.
I use a modified laminator, normally it became 110-120C, so I added a relay and a circuit with an 1N4148 glass diode, as a sensor, to have it switch around the 175 degrees.
After 3 or 4 passes (to heat up the entire circuit board) it is ready for its bath of soapy water.
After that before etching, I tend to fill in the big areas with an Edding 400 permanent marker to fill in the gaps, caused by the paper fibers that might have pulled off some of the toner.
Name: IMGP2097.jpg
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Description: A prepared sheet, ready to be printed on..shiny and thin so it needs a 'carrier sheet'

Usefull link(german) for modifying a laminator:
Last edited by eisenficker; May 16, 2012 at 02:20 PM. Reason: Laminator info
May 14, 2012, 07:49 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by eisenficker
My version of ESU's programmer.
It works fine without external power, powered by the two 18650 cells in the Tx.
Nice Job
Thank you for the continuation of my previous work. Your project is perfect
May 14, 2012, 09:16 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by esu-ov
Hey guys

Here is a new version of the programmer for mobile phones with Android OS and Bluetooth Wireless Transceiver Module RS232/TTL. Finished version will be ready hopefully within a month.
Many days of work.
Using the programmer can perform:
  • Make changes to all parameters
  • Keep any number of settings (models) of their name
  • Retrieve the current settings from radio
  • ! Import settings from an XML file from the program DigitalRadio!
  • Export all settings to an XML file compliant with DigitalRadio
  • Save the settings selected in the transmitter (not demo)
  • Modify settings offline

Some of screens shot

Good luck in testing.
Full versions is out today!
You can download it here. The program is freeware.

www (
May 22, 2012, 11:15 AM
Registered User
snapper1234's Avatar
Originally Posted by marcio.acro
I have an old 6ch Futaba radio, which is AM 72mhz. Today it is illegal to fly with this frequency, and the radio is dead too. I find it very interesting, and I am considering transforming it into a 2,4ghz radio

because there are better way to modding your old futaba ,
e.g. ready to use 2.4ghz DIY modules from Corona, FrSky etc.!
your Futaba has a modular bay on the back and LCD Display ?
exact name of this radio?
FCC ID exists?
your radio completely dead? or only the transmitting funktion ?
one probably. I can help you there!

all worth it in my eyes, but only at a higher quality radio,
because the turnigy / flysky 9X unbeatable in price and in
the modding possibilities (e.g. new firmware etc.)

kind regards from germany to ....?
Last edited by snapper1234; May 22, 2012 at 11:31 AM.
May 29, 2012, 01:46 PM
Registered User
Everest's Avatar

damaged area on HK-6T printed board

Dear Colleagues!
During the HK-6T modification (4 batteries cells power supply) I've damaged the printed conductor near R30.

There is a connection with C35 in this point and link to R23 - according to the scheme below

I took the non-SMD type of resistor instead of R30 (10k) and trying to link it to R23 ignoring the damaged place.
However I could not find the proper place on printed board for this.
Would you be so kind to recommend.
May 30, 2012, 12:07 AM
RC beginner
Originally Posted by Everest
There is a connection with C35 in this point and link to R23

you probably meant r32 instead of r23? one might have to scrape away some resist to get a place to solder new wire or parts but these are always repairable. just remember that metal conducts and plastic does not.
May 30, 2012, 02:42 PM
Registered User
Everest's Avatar
you probably meant r32 instead of r23?
I think you are right - most probably there is a mistake in the scheme (that I found somewere in this tread)

BTW what is the capacity of C35?
May 30, 2012, 04:16 PM
RC beginner
i can never tell cap values becasue they dont mark them like with resistors. i wonder why they dont. i have to pull the part and check mfd with a meter. it looks like a filter for batt monitor so .1mfd or other non critical value. may even work ok w/o one there.

do you have a link to the full diagram?
May 31, 2012, 01:25 AM
Registered User
Everest's Avatar
Thanks dave1993 for your help! Actually I found the full diagram via thread tools menu of this web-page.
There is the command strip on the top of each page - click on Thread Tools - select show attachments in this thread - and somewhere in the middle of page one you will find few boxes with HK-6T diagram. Everywhere R32 is marked as R23 - hope that this is only one mistake in scheme : )
...but I didn't find the way how to move from the image to the corresponding post... in the preivious version of rcgroups it was some hyperlink...
Jun 01, 2012, 09:18 PM
Team Wack-a-Mole
Melnic's Avatar
somewhere in the thread is a link to the FCC website where flysky published it's schematics.
Jun 02, 2012, 04:42 AM
Registered User
FDR_'s Avatar
Originally Posted by Melnic
somewhere in the thread is a link to the FCC website where flysky published it's schematics.

Where grantee code is VPO or N4Z, or you can use the advanced search and type flysky into the applicant name:

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