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Dec 16, 2011, 04:47 PM
RC beginner
the same thought briefly flickered through my mind but on reflection i realized its not so tragic as all that after all. its not true "turning the battery on will feed 12v to the cpu". the trainer pin is not connected to batteries but to 5v as shown in the diagram.

its true some regulators draw excess current when output bipolars are reverse biased but these are rare. 7805 and most 3v ldo draw more than idle in this case but not enough to do damage (regardless of whats on the input). i measured it in other circuits some time ago and more recently on the t6 itself. the 7805 draws very little current in this mode.

thats not what happens when 5v only is supplied and the radio is turned on though. in this case you are simply running two regulators in parallel which, contrary to the old wives tale, is perfectly fine. the pc usb circuitry is designed for this kind of abuse and the 7805 will not be harmed either.

i am currently using the 5v power method suggested by iksbob and angrybirdie to avoid cycling batteries and wearing them out which is a real concern.
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Dec 16, 2011, 05:22 PM
Registered User
willy163's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by KIWINB
From post 4974 by Willy163 "Furthermore, tx doesn't need external power.
Trainer port 5V pin is common to all electronics (RF module included). So, if TX is switched off and 5V is supplied to trainer port, it will power everything."
This is wrong. The battery supply is +12V. There are 2 regulators, a 78L05 SMD which feeds +5v to the MCU and the trainer port, and a L7805CV TO3 case +5v regulator which only the RF board.
The battery sense for the LED on the front comes from the input to the MCU regulator. The MCU does the processing for the voltage alarm.
I have the circuit diagram in front of me as I type this.

WARNINGThese regulators generally do NOT like having volts being fed backwards into them, I know that several people have powered up the computer part of the TX by feeding +5v into pin 2 of the trainer port. and got away with no damage. Worst case is the 78L05 SMD regulator will fail, possibly short circuit, and turning the batteries supply on will feed +12V to the MCU with catastrophic failure. The only good part of the Tx that will be useable will be the RF board.
Ok, I've not been clear but it isn't totally wrong. If you feed 5V throught trainer port with TX switched off, you WILL power electronics.
78L05 has two BJT in darlington configuration between input and output. If you connect +5V to output with input pulled to zero, you will reverse polarize emitter junction of bjt. This should't damage component. But I agree: IT ISN'T ADVISABLE! SO DON'T TRY TO POWER TX VIA TRAINER PORT.

Have nice flights,
Willy.
Dec 16, 2011, 11:26 PM
RC beginner
Quote:
Originally Posted by willy163
Ok, I've not been clear but it isn't totally wrong. If you feed 5V throught trainer port with TX switched off, you WILL power electronics.
yes.. and that is exactly what we are trying to do: power the electronics. i have considerable experience in electrical engineering and am convinced it is safe. ive decided cycling batteries is a real threat compared to the imagined one of supplying 5v to circuits designed for 5v. it is a personal choice and everyone must decide for themselves.

one thing id never consider is using lipos in a radio. even as an experienced tech i cannot trust myself to plug in that connector right every time i charge batteries. thats even if i am lucky enough to do the mod correctly in the first place. hundreds and probably thousands of 9x and other radios were bricked in exactly that way.

that too is a personal choice though (so is jumping in front of a truck ).
Dec 23, 2011, 05:06 PM
Registered User
flashbang's Avatar

HK T6A/FS CT6B Flapperon and Gyro gain mixes?


Is this possible with only 3 mixes availible to have Flapperons and a Gyro gain mix for the GY48V?
Thanks
Dec 23, 2011, 10:20 PM
R.I.P, Aardvark.
F-111 John's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by flashbang
Is this possible with only 3 mixes availible to have Flapperons and a Gyro gain mix for the GY48V?
Thanks
Nope, unfortunately flapperons take up all three mixes, which leave no mixes left to send one of the VRs to a channel for gyro gain.
Dec 24, 2011, 07:05 AM
Registered User
flashbang's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-111 John
Nope, unfortunately flapperons take up all three mixes, which leave no mixes left to send one of the VRs to a channel for gyro gain.
OK, Would setting the gain to 30% with no VR adjustment be possible for the Gyro on channel 5 without using a mix? I really do not need to have an adjustible gain via the VR, I can set it in T6config to a percentage and change it as needed leaving the mixes for the flapperon setup. Any way possible for this?
Thanks
Dec 24, 2011, 01:56 PM
R.I.P, Aardvark.
F-111 John's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by flashbang
OK, Would setting the gain to 30% with no VR adjustment be possible for the Gyro on channel 5 without using a mix? I really do not need to have an adjustible gain via the VR, I can set it in T6config to a percentage and change it as needed leaving the mixes for the flapperon setup. Any way possible for this?
Thanks
Never did it, never tried it, but you might be able to take channel 6 (assuming you use channel 5 for your second aileron channel) and use the elecronic trim setting in T6Config (or your favorite programming software, mine is DigitalRadio) to cheat it towards one side or the other and leave it there. Whether you can get 30% deflection, I don't know.

However, if your goal is fixed operation of the gyro, don't most gyros have a fixed mode of operation already?
Dec 24, 2011, 04:27 PM
Registered User
flashbang's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-111 John
Never did it, never tried it, but you might be able to take channel 6 (assuming you use channel 5 for your second aileron channel) and use the elecronic trim setting in T6Config (or your favorite programming software, mine is DigitalRadio) to cheat it towards one side or the other and leave it there. Whether you can get 30% deflection, I don't know.

However, if your goal is fixed operation of the gyro, don't most gyros have a fixed mode of operation already?
I need just the gain on the gyro no need for heading hold but I do need to use the gain wire on the GY48V to set the gain.
Dec 24, 2011, 05:49 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-111 John
Never did it, never tried it, but you might be able to take channel 6 (assuming you use channel 5 for your second aileron channel) and use the elecronic trim setting in T6Config (or your favorite programming software, mine is DigitalRadio) to cheat it towards one side or the other and leave it there. Whether you can get 30% deflection, I don't know.
However, if your goal is fixed operation of the gyro, don't most gyros have a fixed mode of operation already?
Quote:
Originally Posted by flashbang
I need just the gain on the gyro no need for heading hold but I do need to use the gain wire on the GY48V to set the gain.
I havent played with the 9X specifically but your gyro doesnt care which channel it is plugged into.You dont need any mix to have gain.Find an open channel that you can force to one side of the output or the other from center.Values on the - side of center will be Rate gain.Values on the + side will be HH gain.Adjust with EPA(endpoint).If your going to use it in Rate mode you need to power it up in HH and then switch to Rate.So set the channel up on a switch to toggle from HH to Rate.
Jan 07, 2012, 04:21 PM
Registered User

Thanks


Completely new to this and I have just bought one of these Hobby King radios which arrived, of course, with no cable and no manual. Many thanks to all those who have contributed to this thread as I have found everything I need right here! I didn't even know which way round to put the Rx battery connector!
I made a RS232 to TTL converter with a couple of transistors as I didn't have a MAX232 or similar lying around and the signal polarities need inverting - RS232 TxD and RxD idle in the "marking" or low state whereas the radio signals idle in the high state. Fortunately my serial-usb converter works OK with 0 - 5V signals.
Jan 07, 2012, 05:42 PM
R.I.P, Aardvark.
F-111 John's Avatar
Nice work, harlequin2! I'm sure way, way upstream in this thread somewhere a couple of guys posted an RS-232 to TTL interface somewhere, but sounds like you did it independently.

It amazes me to no end that Hobby King stocks the CT6 radio in the US warehouse, but doesn't stock the cable in the US warehouse.

It amazes me even more that they bother to separate the radio from the USB cable in the first place, since the USB cable is mandatory to access any of the settings, including channel reversing.

I've posted several times on the Hobby King forums about this, but of course there's been no reply from the staff.

Next step is to get a decent program for the radio. I recommend HappyMan2009's software, but it is shareware. I haven't tried it, but charlesconklin has free software that others seem to really like.
Jan 07, 2012, 08:03 PM
Registered User
V1 radios came with the cable. I agree tho... Separating the two is idiocy.
Jan 07, 2012, 08:33 PM
Registered User

Automatic Controller Configurator using arduino


Hi everyone,
I am writing here to share my experiences building a configurator using arduino which I call RAToSO(Ricardito's Anti-massacre Total System cOnfigurarion-- just a joke thing ). For this "project" (It was more like a 'just do it quick' thing) I used the arduino nano, which is the cheapest, but any arduino can be used, just taking care about the pin numbers that can change.

For the human interface I used a TM 1638 module. Both Arduino nano board and the module can be found here: http://s.dealextreme.com/search/arduino

Here is the deal: I had various planes and only one controler and no cables to configure it. The first thing I did was use this cable alternative http://aeroquad.com/showthread.php?2...le-alternative. So when I was flying the planes I needed not only to make the connections but bring the computer to reverse and trim channels which is slow and takes a while. The idea was to put the configs inside the chip memory and do it via arduino. That way we can just plug a board and the whole configurations will be sent in less than 5 seconds without the need of a computer or extra batteries or anything. Just an arduino and a module. So here we start:

To use the TM Module we need the TM 1638 library http://code.google.com/p/tm1638-library/ by Ricardo Batista. I don't recomend you adventure yourself with this chip since it has poor documentation.

First thing we need the configuration itself. I had a hard time trying to sniff the serial port but finally found a solution using the Virtual Ports by Eltima: http://www.eltima.com/products/vspdxp/

Install it and open it and just create the pair. Everything you send in one port will be received by the other port:




Now you can open you configurator, like T6 Configuration. Connect to one of the ports:






Now open any terminal program, as Termite. Set your terminal to 115000, 8 bits no parity, and hexadecimal view as seen in the picture bellow and connect to the other port. Now switch to the configurator and click Send Config. At the terminal program you will be able to see the hex code which should have 69 bytes.



Now remove those creepy dd.. Gy...dddd that appear on the right column.
To put these configuration bytes inside the arduino code we need that each byte have a 0x in front of it to indicate that its a hexadecimal code and split each byte with a coma. You can do it any way you want but I advise to just put some spaces before the ones on the left column and use a replace SPACE with ", 0x" at your prefered editor.

Now that you have your configurarion codes you can download the program and do 4 quick steps to adapt the code:
Code:http://code.google.com/p/ratoso/downloads/list


  1. Enter the number of configurations you have
  2. Enter the name of your configurations. Each name should have 8 caracters.
  3. Declare and add the the configuration with a unique name like in the example. Add a 0xff before the 0x55. That avoids some reading failures by the controller.
  4. Add a case for each configuration you have in the order and number they appear in step 2.

Now it's done. You just need to upload the code to your board and connect it to the controller as in the picture:


Also connect the module pins according to what's written in the back of the board. Connect VCC to the +5V pin, GND to GND pin, DIO to D3, CLK to D2 and STB0 at D4. Leave the rest not connected.


Finally I added some pictures and a video of it working. Note in the video that it also has some servo testing functionality. When doing this you should use external power and remove the red cable from the controller. If not the controller will probably not deliver the needed power and the board will reset.

video:
Automatic Controller Configurator using arduino and TM 1638 module (1 min 28 sec)






That's it. Hope you enjoy. Feel free to ask.
For the coding experts: Sorry for not doing anything dynamic. I did it in one night and wanted to do it quick to fly the next day and I don't have the time for now to go any further. I encourage anyone who has the skills to do it and post it back. Just to be sure I added a GPL license.
Last edited by rickehrle; Jan 07, 2012 at 09:34 PM.
Jan 08, 2012, 03:02 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-111 John
Next step is to get a decent program for the radio. I recommend HappyMan2009's software, but it is shareware. I haven't tried it, but charlesconklin has free software that others seem to really like.
Thanks, I'll have a look at both of those. I'm building a multicopter and I really don't know anything about the various configurations as yet. Lots of reading still to do!
Jan 08, 2012, 03:39 PM
R.I.P, Aardvark.
F-111 John's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by iksbob
V1 radios came with the cable. I agree tho... Separating the two is idiocy.
Early V1 radios came with the cable, but Hobby King separated the radio and the cable even in V1 radios when they claimed to have a "Vista" ready cable and an "XP" ready cable, that turned out to be the same cable!

The Vista problem, of course, was in obtaining the proper drivers for the USB chipset in the cord.


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