how can I get this colour "wash"? - RC Groups
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Dec 10, 2008, 02:15 PM
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pmdevlin's Avatar

how can I get this colour "wash"?

sorry if in wrong section, but here goes. I am restoring a Huntsman 28, just finished the planking, but struggling getting the bleached or washed effect, as in the pics of 3 real Huntsman. (its the outside deck I am doing)

I have never done this before, thinned grey just looks dirty, and thinned white does not look anything !!

Any ideas would be appreciated!

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Dec 10, 2008, 02:24 PM
Mmm, tugs...
patmat2350's Avatar
So it's not just me that's baffled! I too long for a solution for obtaining faded teak: and

It's a mysterious mix of brown and gray, darn if I can replicate what Mother Nature does so well...
Dec 10, 2008, 02:25 PM
Registered User
paint the planks white first or teak with a few thin coats.Let dry. then you will have a base to lay your grey wash over. You might even just dry brush over the base color. or powder the deck with earth powders or baby powder or whatever powders you think might work. then matte seal. Practice on scraps first. If you decide to directly powder your deck, clear coat the deck first then apply the powder. This gives you better control applying the powder and if you dont like the result you can blow/ brush it off and try again. don`t use excessive amounts of powder. be gentle. use a blush brush. the idea is you dust/feather it on. try doing yourself up as a woman to get the hang of the blush brush or maybe not.
Last edited by Willj; Dec 10, 2008 at 02:48 PM.
Dec 10, 2008, 02:52 PM
Registered User
This article on the subject, is good!
Dec 11, 2008, 07:21 PM
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pmdevlin's Avatar
Hi Pat, that pic of ""Exact", Fort Lauderdale" is exactly it! Did you ever resolve how to do it? I have recently finished an Orca, this Huntsman project is quite different from doing that scruffy old boat from Jaws! And it really needs to be right.
Strange that all those 3 different boats pictured have all weathered the same, wasnt the huntsman regarded as a bit of a floating gym palace?, yet all the decks have been left to deteriorate?
Nice link aero, the cabin sides, and the deck where the crab basket sits is the colour I want, but the author didnt say which paints etc he used.
Thanks for response will, but i cant see the reason for the powder, will this not just create a "lumpy" finish? Its just the weathered colour I need.
Thanks to all
Dec 11, 2008, 07:27 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by pmdevlin
...wasnt the huntsman regarded as a bit of a floating gym palace?, yet all the decks have been left to deteriorate?
Teak is actually happy, left unfinished like that as long as it is not left to turn black... those pictures of the huntsman you've posted show good care by the owners.
Dec 11, 2008, 07:28 PM
Cheif Bottlewasher
more coffee's Avatar
the grayish outter planks may do well with a little baking soda and diluted in water

thats my best guess ,and what i used to help draw attention from new planks i put in my fence on the advice of the guy at the hardware store ...
Dec 11, 2008, 07:40 PM
3 Blades to the Wind
Shaun Hendricks's Avatar
Would hydrogen peroxide prematurely oxidize teak?
Dec 11, 2008, 08:02 PM
Mmm, tugs...
patmat2350's Avatar
PMDevlin- nope, I remain baffled.
And most of us don't want to rapidly age teak, as we're not using it in the first place- the grain is way too big for most scales. I'd like to make light colored fine grain whitish/yellowish woods (basswood = lime) look like that.
"WeatherIt" does give the gray, but I haven't come back and tried to add the right brown to it.
Dec 11, 2008, 08:38 PM
Registered User
Seems that the author of that article used a combination of browns to come up with the right base... It is probably all trial and error no exact recipe...

I have to admit, I am in exactly the same spot you guys are on with a sailboat project- it has teak benches and a teak floor in the cockpit that I want to make look oxidized too...
Dec 11, 2008, 08:46 PM
Registered User
On the real boat the teak is not treated/varnished on all the deck. Where you will walk on the outer edges it is left unfinished so you do not slip when wet. It is just scrubed clean.

I am not an expert on finishing. But this is what I would do.
Maybe the solution it to get a blade and srape back the varnish to leave bare wood. If you are using teak then this will take on the grey colour quickly. Teak is fairly robust and not effected by water that much.

Alternatively, if not teak. In those areas that need to be grey. Mix a water based grey acrylic paint (mix black and white) with water to create an acrylic wash of even colour in the shade that works when dry. You will need to test on scrap wood to get the colouration right.
Then seal in with a matt acrylic varnish.
Dec 11, 2008, 08:53 PM
Registered User
but there is that elusive brown/green color in there somewhere too!
Dec 12, 2008, 03:57 AM
Spreckels Lake, GGP, SF, CA
craig_c's Avatar

No, No, NO.... Paint bad!! ;P

I have not done this (grayed teak) (had no call to... yet), but the theory is based on other woodworking jobs I have done...

OK, first for something like this we need to get away from thinking paints, and start thinking stains and dyes. Instead of thinning paints, trying to getting a semi-transparent surface 'wash' coating; I recommend using dyes, probably at full strength. (I really like W. D. Lockwoods water or alcohol soluble dye powders).

1) Dyes are a transparent medium capable of very deep penetration of the wood substrate.
2) The colors are infinite as they can be mixed to exactly the shade wanted or by application of one color over another (transparent, remember).
3) The 'depth' (saturation) of the color is deepened by multiple applications without changing the base or building up a thick, detail destroying surface coat.
4) Since the Lockwoods’ dyes are supplied as either water or alcohol soluble dyes (1 oz packet makes a quart.) as much or as little as needed can be mixed at a time.
5) These dyes KEEP! Just add more of the appropriate solvent. (I have some deep ‘red mahogany’ stain that was mixed over 20 years ago… used some a couple of months ago, just as fresh as when I mixed it.)
6) Making a wash just means diluting the stock solution.
7) At least to my ol' eyes, these dyes appear to be sunlight fast.

Anyway, a much better set of instructions is here….

Here’s the entire line of colors and

Here is their Silver Gray (#92) which would probably be a good place to start this project after bleaching out with Oxalic acid and maybe lightly wire-brushing the wood to scuff it up (simulated wear & tear).

If you use Mahogany for the decking, you will NOT be able to bleach it using the Oxalic acid bleaches, you will need to use a Hydrogen Peroxide bleach and a neutralizer, the instructions for which may be found here.

Then finish as you usually would finish the deck; though a dull finish would probably be best, maybe a rubbed out (000 or 0000 steel wool) finish.

Oh, one other thing; use gloves… this stuff stains fingers exceptionally well.

By the way... the Mahog alcohol stains can really make some of that cheap hobby store lauan look beautiful and even out the color.
Last edited by craig_c; Sep 02, 2010 at 01:46 AM.
Dec 12, 2008, 04:36 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by Aerominded
but there is that elusive brown/green color in there somewhere too!
So fetch one up and spit in the colour wash
Dec 12, 2008, 04:48 AM
Spreckels Lake, GGP, SF, CA
craig_c's Avatar
Originally Posted by tigerbay
So fetch one up and .............
eewwwwwwwwwww urp

'Sides, you'll find plenty of greens here.
Last edited by craig_c; Dec 12, 2008 at 04:18 PM.

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