Originally Posted by garymcc

I received my MT-1 and it appears to be as good as advertised. The RPM function appears to work. I will have more time to test it this weekend. I have already found 1 bad 3.7g Mystery servo in a lot of 6 I purchased. It is very useful to be able to exercise these small servos before putting them in the Fire Fox 200 heli I am building.

Gary, can you describe how you got the tach to function, repeatedly?

The instructions are awful, but I really think mine is defective.

hyyankle, I enter mode 7 first by pressing "MOD" then the "^" until the display says ""F7". Then I press "MOD" again. THe display now reads "F7-2" . Press "MID" and the display reads "0000". This is what I use to read the speed of my GWS Slow Stick 2410-09 motor on a 3S lipo. Half throttle with a 1047 prop is, as I recall, about 3700 RPM according to the MT-1. The MT-1 display reading follows the throttle down to about 300 RPM which is about as slow as the ESC will run the motor. While reading the RPM the right most digit, the least significant digit, will "drift" a couple of numbers but that may be because all testing has been indoors under artificial light.

My power source is a 4.8v NiMh battery pack. The MT-1 also works with the 12vdc adapter that came with my Esky battery charger. The plug is a perfect fit. I am going to connect a digital 8 g. rudder servo later and test it.

Hope this helps. I need to spend more time with the RPM feature.

Thanks! That is how I use it, so mine must be defective. It is neither uniform or predicatable in ANY lighting condition.

How is the "cover" (light or tan plastic) on your tach sensor oriented? (notice the little slits in it.)

Thanks again.

The "cover" looks like the picture. There appears to be a bulb or sensor deep inside the RPM port. As far as I can tell, the gray cover just spins on the port axis. I have no idea what it's for.

BTW: I connected the MT-1 to the rudder channel of a AR6100e DSM receiver and read 1100-1900 across the stick travel. I assume the units are micro seconds.

Hm, my cover is light tan, but it, too, spins-good info on the rx.

hymyankel: Have you checked inside the RPM port to see if the sensor is blocked or dirty? You might try a blast of compressed air and/or alchohol.

I'll check, but when I last looked, it was clean.
I'm almost certain it's defective-GWS appears to hate warranty claims and makes it difficult-for example, postage to California plus the $10 I already (overpaid) makes it irrational.

Originally Posted by hymyankel

Thanks! That is how I use it, so mine must be defective. It is neither uniform or predicatable in ANY lighting condition.

How is the "cover" (light or tan plastic) on your tach sensor oriented? (notice the little slits in it.)

Thanks again.

Did you try under day light?

Many indoor space the light will be 60Hz make reading like 3600RPM!

Did I try daylight?

Well, I pointed it directly at the sun, and almost every angle in between.

I have also tried every rational or reasonable combination of natural or artificial light.

Mine simply does not work properly, reliably or predictably.

After having paid Caliber $10 for postage, when $5 would do it, I'm not paying more postage: the device simply isn't worth it.

Originally Posted by hymyankel

Did I try daylight?

Well, I pointed it directly at the sun, and almost every angle in between.

I have also tried every rational or reasonable combination of natural or artificial light.

Mine simply does not work properly, reliably or predictably.

After having paid Caliber $10 for postage, when $5 would do it, I'm not paying more postage: the device simply isn't worth it.

hymyankel,
try the fluorescent lamps or a daylight lamp .....for the rpm test

I've tried all types of artificial light.

My conclusion: as a matter of certainty, it is defective.

Originally Posted by hymyankel

I'll check, but when I last looked, it was clean.
I'm almost certain it's defective-GWS appears to hate warranty claims and makes it difficult-for example, postage to California plus the $10 I already (overpaid) makes it irrational.

I'm afraid that your MT-1 needs to be further inspected by GWS. I've so told you since days ago. Would you contact service@gwsus.com seeking RMA. GWS did not hate warranty claims, but it seems to be a must to send the suspected defective product back for the RMA.

Chen

Originally Posted by GWS CHEN

I'm afraid that your MT-1 needs to be further inspected by GWS. I've so told you since days ago. Would you contact service@gwsus.com seeking RMA. GWS did not hate warranty claims, but it seems to be a must to send the suspected defective product back for the RMA.

Chen

THEN YOU PAY THE STINKING POSTAGE TO CALIFORNIA, OR SEND ME A NEW ONE AND I'LL SEND THE OLD ONE BACK-AGAIN, IT IS NOT RATIONAL FOR ME TO POUR MORE MONEY INTO THIS THING WHEN CALIBER, YOUR APPARENT ALTER EGO, CHARGED ME $10 FOR SHIPPING WHEN $5 WOULD DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WHY WOULD ANY RATIONAL PERSON POUR MORE MONEY INTO THIS POS SO THAT THEIR SHIPPING COSTS ARE 50% OF THE PURCHASE PRICE?

I'll say it, again: it's just a way to stop warranty claims cold.

I told you this days ago, too.

Hymyankel,

I could not say any words on the shipping costs applied by Caliber Hobby, but I'm afraid that you have to apply RMA with GWS USA if your MT-1 was a defective one.

Chen

That Is Neither Fair Nor Rational: You Need Have No Fear, I'm Not Going To Make A Warranty Claim Which Runs Up My Costs To 50% Or More Of The Product.

I WILL NOT "THROW GOOD MONEY AFTER BAD."

Why would any rational person pay another $5 or so in postage, on top of $10 already paid, to get a $30 item replaced or repaired?

You wouldn't and I will not.

Let others make their own decisions, but how you deal with something like this tells one a great deal about how you manage this company.

In the insurance industry, how a company handles claims is how one judges a company's policies and I reckon it is about the same.