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Jul 16, 2012, 01:00 PM
Kit Manufacturer
coreman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack the R
You guys are really making push-pull sound like a winner.

It appears no one is using the wmparkflyer or fancyfoam ply horns, so what are you using?
Oh, and pull-pull is lighter, just saying why you need to take care in setting it up to be slack-free
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Jul 16, 2012, 02:40 PM
Registered User
Jack the R's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by coreman
I have a set of horns very similar to wmparkflyer.
How far out from the center of the elevator did you have to mount your horn?
Jul 16, 2012, 03:27 PM
Kit Manufacturer
coreman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack the R
How far out from the center of the elevator did you have to mount your horn?
Here is the picture of the elevator from our online instructions showing the precut horn slot

Jul 16, 2012, 05:38 PM
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Jack the R's Avatar
I've looked at your page a half dozen times and not noticed the online instructions.

Is this how you're setting up the elevator servo arm -



The instructions mention these long horns on the left -



but I haven't seen anyone use them yet.

I'm about to set mine up with a long horn, which will throw the braces on the carbon rod off a bit . . .
Jul 16, 2012, 05:42 PM
Registered User
Jack the R's Avatar
BTW, how critical is the outline shape? It would only take a small change here and there to make a bubble canopy P-47. I need an American plane, I've got too many Russians and Germans.
Jul 16, 2012, 05:54 PM
Kit Manufacturer
coreman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack the R
I've looked at your page a half dozen times and not noticed the online instructions.

Is this how you're setting up the elevator servo arm -



The instructions mention these long horns on the left -



but I haven't seen anyone use them yet.

I'm about to set mine up with a long horn, which will throw the braces on the carbon rod off a bit . . .
Those aren't horns but pushrods guides/supports. The bellcrank is for the ailerons to remove the differential. I just use the longest servo arm outer hole and I'm using one hole in from the outside on the horns. There should Be pictures of the horns also

Here's a link to the epp instructions
http://www.racores.com/FlatFoamieEPPInstructions.htm
Jul 16, 2012, 08:57 PM
Registered User
Jack the R's Avatar
Switched to pushpull on elevator, got 75 up/down. Should be enough travel but - too soft. Everything's too soft. I had to go to negative expo: rudder is -15, elevator -10, aileron -15. That's getting snappy, but I feel like there is a need for at least more rudder. It's not as sharp on rudder and elevator as the Sukhoi Popflyer yet, but I strongly suspect the Honey Bee Fixed Pitch TX I'm using on the Sukhoi has even more negative expo than I'm currently using on the Yak.

I'm switching the motor to a Blue Wonder and I'll try different prop/battery combinations, and I'm still going to change the 7 gram aileron servo for a 9 gram, brace the fuselage, and at least revisit the pullpull on the rudder if not switch to pushpull. But - I'm tentatively thinking, if I were to build another Yak I'd increase the elevator size and push the rudder back an inch/inch and a half. I reserve the right to change my mind and like it the way it is though.
Jul 17, 2012, 02:38 PM
Registered User
Jack the R's Avatar
Flew with the Blue Wonder and 2s 350 mah batteries - @195 grams w/battery it feels way too heavy in the air. I liked it better as originally set up.
Jul 17, 2012, 02:53 PM
Kit Manufacturer
coreman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack the R
Flew with the Blue Wonder and 2s 350 mah batteries - @195 grams w/battery it feels way too heavy in the air. I liked it better as originally set up.
What prop? 2S should be the 9x5 and 3S an 8x4. pop the 8x4 and 3S on it before changing things so soon
Jul 17, 2012, 04:29 PM
2 seconds from crashing
indoorheli's Avatar
Well I decided I needed a new Yak. I am sure those that have been around will remember my ol paint skeem (if you can call it that) from bits and pieces of Yak 55 art in this thread. Didnt really feel like making a new layout for printing. I know the layout doesnt look like much but I am not a graphic designer so it took me a bit the first time around!
I only did a single pass print but should have done a double since the bright epp really dampened the brightness of the ink, but i just wanted to get it built and rtf. I am going to put an extra servo on it later today for a parachute drop for my kiddo
Jul 17, 2012, 04:54 PM
Registered User
Jack the R's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by coreman
What prop? 2S should be the 9x5 and 3S an 8x4. pop the 8x4 and 3S on it before changing things so soon
I've got this 9X4.7 on it - Link

I could put this 9X5 on it - Link

I've got this 8X4 - Link

but no 3S batteries.

The power is adequate but not phenomenal on 2S 350 mah, but on quick turns the inner wing tip stalls easier and is slower to recover. The plane has to fly faster and it's harder to obstacle fly under trees. I had a little aileron flutter before, it's worse now.

Maybe I could go 3S with this one and pick up a 6mm Yak later for the pancake motor. Decisions decisions . . .

BTW you've been a lot of help lately and I appreciate it

indoorheli - looks good, what motor do you have on it?
Last edited by Jack the R; Jul 17, 2012 at 05:22 PM.
Jul 18, 2012, 02:48 AM
Registered User
tele1974's Avatar
Time to retire my Yak. I haven't been keeping up with the thread so I am wondering who is cutting the most up to date version of the Yak. And is their a list somewhere of companies cutting the yak???
Jul 18, 2012, 05:28 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by tele1974
Time to retire my Yak. I haven't been keeping up with the thread so I am wondering who is cutting the most up to date version of the Yak. And is their a list somewhere of companies cutting the yak???

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2359
Jul 18, 2012, 06:10 AM
Kit Manufacturer
coreman's Avatar
The 2nd and 3rd props are what I use, the GWS HD series. Do you have a 500mah 2S? I wonder if it's just a matter of not getting the amp draw. 350 @ 20C is 7amps (my thought is you might not be getting a full 20C) while a 500mah would be 10amps so it could be a little tired and still keep the amps flowing. And yes, weight (read: wing loading) will make the plane need to maintain a little more speed.

Do you have slop in the linkages? That could cause some flutter

No problem on the help. I'm a firm believer on paying it forward. Someone helped me once upon a time, now it's my turn

Jim

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack the R
I've got this 9X4.7 on it - Link

I could put this 9X5 on it - Link

I've got this 8X4 - Link

but no 3S batteries.

The power is adequate but not phenomenal on 2S 350 mah, but on quick turns the inner wing tip stalls easier and is slower to recover. The plane has to fly faster and it's harder to obstacle fly under trees. I had a little aileron flutter before, it's worse now.

Maybe I could go 3S with this one and pick up a 6mm Yak later for the pancake motor. Decisions decisions . . .

BTW you've been a lot of help lately and I appreciate it

indoorheli - looks good, what motor do you have on it?
Last edited by coreman; Jul 18, 2012 at 06:25 AM.
Jul 18, 2012, 08:37 AM
Registered User
Jack the R's Avatar
I zeroed out the thrust angle and that helped. I installed the BW with the angle it needed on the Sukhoi, which appears to have been too much on the Yak. I'm a lot happier with it now

One of my 350's is dying and I imagine the other isn't too far behind. Khen's got a 330 3S (29.5 g) and 440 3S (42 g), which would you choose?

I'll redo the ailerons with a 9 gram servo and thicker rods. The Breeze Pro parts were o.k. when the plane was lighter and slower but they're overpowered as configured.


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