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Dec 03, 2008, 07:54 PM
Registered User
Keep the ideas for stiffening coming. Nice to have many alternatives. Provides ways for us cheapos to build good planes. Also gives more flexibility to anyone looking to revise designs or tinker with a new design.
Sounds more genious than idiot to me!!
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Dec 04, 2008, 01:39 AM
flyin' fool
goldguy's Avatar
This had been repeated here in the forms many, many times, but here it is again........the number one most important aspect of building for success is building light, not strong. There's a very long list of the benfits of light and a very short list of the benifits of heavy. Every extra gram counts, as it only takes 28 to make an ounce, saving an ounce is like adding 1.5 volts to your battery pack in performance, plus, less crash damage.

Concentrate more on what it takes to make it light, than what it takes to make is strong.
Dec 04, 2008, 09:40 AM
BUILDIN-FLYIN-CRASHIN-FUN
goldguy is right . when i do need strength,i use cling wrap with glue,if done correctly,its lighter than packaging tape.
Dec 04, 2008, 10:35 AM
Registered User
lake flyer's Avatar
Using foam all by itself , form it into a tube or a triangular cross section , it does not need any other strengthening .

I also have a Clark Y section wing made of foam it has stood up to many crashes and tree landings , now in it's seccond plane ( hodge podge )
Dec 04, 2008, 11:54 AM
Registered User
For planes with complex shapes, i like silkspan and polycrylic (Minwax). Upside - light and strong; downside - takes a while to dry and if you apply tape(as on ailerons) and the poly is not completely dry, your tape slooowly unsticks.
Wb
Dec 04, 2008, 12:03 PM
flyin' fool
goldguy's Avatar
If you have looked at any of our indoor flying videos over in the NutBall thread, you'll see how well light flies and survives with minimal bracing. Light for indoor (or outdoors) means slow flight capabilities and instant reaction to control input, both important for flying indoors. Bash the hardwood floor motor first, centre the prop back on the wobbly and keep right on going. If flying outdoor, it's just a matter of cleaning the dirt out of the motor and your off again. That's why I remove the 'e' clips on the rear on all my outrunners and pack 'Q'Tips.

Think light, build light and you will be rewarded by the foam gods......
Dec 04, 2008, 12:18 PM
Registered User
flypaper 2's Avatar
Another way to strengthen an EPP fuselage in with angle iron depron, angle depron, depron on an angle, bent depron, one of those. A piece about 2 1/2 in. wide and clamped down the centre between two yardsticks, metersticks, milesticks Using a heatgun and putting pressure on the edge of your workbench, you end up with something like below.I wear a pair of welding gloves to protect my delicate pinkys I trim it so it's wider at the front and tapers narrower at the back. I glue it on, then run a strip of hockey tape down the surface. Makes for a very rigid fuse. Motor mounts I make from kitchen cutting board.

Gord
Dec 04, 2008, 12:42 PM
Registered User
flypaper 2's Avatar
Just to add to what Frank says, This Catsass weighs 10 oz. with batt. 30 in. W.S. 540 sq in. With the wide wing struts and fuse, it will knifedge all the way around the drill hall at walking speed. Weight is everything. Wing wire braces are denral floss. Strong stuff, been on there for two yrs. and havn't broke one yet, even with more than a few midairs. Looking for a rafter to make me climb.
Last edited by flypaper 2; Dec 04, 2008 at 01:02 PM.


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