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Aug 29, 2009, 10:06 AM
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QUIKSILVER's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by robin4
I use a 14db patch with the recommended pant/tilt setup from the antennatracker manual. No problems what so ever. But keep in mind that you might need a good tripod that can handle the extra weight and movement

My other hobbie is photography and my silk tripod is super chunky, but good advice
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Aug 29, 2009, 11:19 AM
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jdm66's Avatar
Hi, Sanders

what does that mean "AUTOHOME - yes/no" in the EZ antennatracker, please?

jdm66
Aug 29, 2009, 09:53 PM
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chancesAU's Avatar
Hi Sander,

Hey my EzOSD seems to be playing up...
This morning I let the plane get 9 sats, I then went to calibrate the tracker and all of a sudden I have 0 sats?? then it climbs quickly back to 8... then down to 0 all in about 10 seconds...

I had this problem yesterday also. Last night I checked all my cables ect...
Also when I had the problem yesterday I noticed the OSD had weird stuff on the screen, Eg. the sats was blinking "4" with the satellite dish picture but there was a "1" on the screen also so it looked like it had 14 sats... so something was weird there??

What do you think?
I havent molested the EzOSD at all, its still wrapped in its original heatshrink...

Max
Aug 30, 2009, 04:05 AM
Suspended Account
Max,

Not sure what's happening, but I'd upload the latest firmware to it, v1.0.

http://www.immersionrc.com/ezosdFirmware.htm

Cheers,

Sander.
Aug 30, 2009, 04:17 AM
Registered User
chancesAU's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssassen
Max,

Not sure what's happening, but I'd upload the latest firmware to it, v1.0.

http://www.immersionrc.com/ezosdFirmware.htm

Cheers,

Sander.
Sander,
I think im running that already, it seems to happen when I move the plane? ill have a nice lock but when I pick it up or bump the plane it goes straight to zero, then back up to 8 or 9.
I might re-seat the gps cables perhaps, need to do some more testing incase im doing something wrong here.

Max
Aug 30, 2009, 04:21 AM
Suspended Account
Reload the latest firmware, just to prevent a case of firmware corruption.

Cheers,

Sander.
Aug 30, 2009, 04:29 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm66
Hi, Sanders

what does that mean "AUTOHOME - yes/no" in the EZ antennatracker, please?

jdm66
AutoHome means 'automatically remember the home position when the number of sats exceeds a preset threshold at startup'.

The original version of the tracker software had this enabled, but once we flew with it at L'Aigle, we realized that it wasn't ideal.
With it off, you can wait until the plan has a very good sat. fix before pressing home. The Tracker will then remember this home position between power cycles.

If you always fly in the same area, just mark the ground where you place your tripod, that way each time you return, there is no antenna tracker setup to do, just turn it on, and fly.
Aug 31, 2009, 01:09 AM
Registered User
Sander,

Quick question, 1 of my 500mw immersion rc transmitters has dry soldered power connector, if you shake it slightly video turns on then off. I removed the shrink, and with a microscope reviewed the board. It looks like the power connector soldered to the board was done with too much heat. So the connection is fragile and dry. I believe the board connection will not be possible to fix on the board. So I want to bypass the board and power her. My question is, is it possible to bypass the board connection and direct solder to the board to get it fixed?

I have a microscope and I am capable of very fine soldering including SMT work. Would really appreciate any insight to pull this off, what connections to solder too, etc...

I will take all responsibility on this end, unless you come back sayings its not possible.

Thanks...
Aug 31, 2009, 02:49 AM
Suspended Account
There's no such thing as dry soldering, I'd just use some flux based solder to try and see if you can reseat the power connector properly.

However I believe what has happened is that the connector has been bumped, or bent upwards, which will put considerable strain on the solder pads and can fracture the trace leading up to it. In that case I'd simply solder flexible wires directly to the input protection diode (VCC) and the nearest ground connection (GND).

Cheers,

Sander.
Aug 31, 2009, 10:32 AM
Registered User
Hello Sander,
I have a problem with ezosd, I'm equip a Funjet and I have reception problems due to current sensor.
Indeed when I install the current sensor between the battery and ESC the range decreases, the servos jitting . To isolate the problem I have done several tests.
All tests are carried out without video transmitter and under the same conditions.
First I remove the BEC of the ESC and powered receiver with a separate battery:
- With the sensor and the OSD connected I have bad reception
- Without sensor and the OSD have a good reception
Then I installed a ferrite to ESC wire with maximum towers and the result is much better but not as good as when the sensor and the OSD is not connected.
Finally I removed the current sensor and the OSD powered by the receiver, the reception is good.
My equipment:
-30amp turnigy speed controller
-corona double-conversion synthetic receiver (72MHz)
- 3 servos htx900
-camera rc922
-battery-3s
-futaba T9CAP
The worry is that the current sensor would be very useful in the Funjet and for now I prefer focus on range ...
The OSD was installed in an easy glider before and I had no problem with range but I was in pcm ...



Last edited by regkite; Aug 31, 2009 at 11:27 AM.
Aug 31, 2009, 11:41 AM
Suspended Account
Well, it is not the current sensor causing issues, it can't as it doesn't generate any RF. What happens is that you have long wires running down the fuse that carry large currents, these affect the Rx as they generated strong electromagnetic fields. In a cramped interior such as the FunJet routing power wires can be a bit problematic.

I'd put the Rx in the nose and route the antenna wire on the leading edge (or right behind the leading edge) of the wing.

You then need to shorten the wires from the motor/ESC/sensor to the minimum required length and solder these all directly to the motor/ESC/sensor, you lose a lot of power in heat due to all the connectors and those connectors are a main cause for issues such as excessive power draw on one or two phases due to a flaky connection, which causes massive voltage spikes on the power rail and strong EM fields, which again affect the Rx.

Having said that I never liked the Corona's, they are very sensitive to EM fields and power rail bound noise. Futaba's PCM receivers or Graupner/JR sPCM are your best bet for long range.

Cheers,

Sander.
Aug 31, 2009, 12:53 PM
Registered User
Hi ssassen

I'm going to use the ezosd using his gps with an autopilot. I would like to know the baud-rate of the new 10hz gps...

thanks
Aug 31, 2009, 12:55 PM
Registered User
jdm66's Avatar
Hi, Sanders

I just downloaded the update for EZantennatracker 1.03, the update was no problem.

The problem I encounter now is that in the menu: Pan us/360 I can not configure the HS-785HB servo because I am limited to 2000 us while for it works properly I need 3900 to 4000 us for a good rotation of 180 °.

At 2000 us when I asked him to move 20 °, it is already over 90 °!!!

On the new menu Telemetry, can you explain a little longer. My Tx is on 2.4 ghz

Regarding the calibration of the antenna before flight, it is the most reliable method, program menu Bear. cal or choose Calibrate with GPS EzOSD ?

Thank you for your support

jdm66
Aug 31, 2009, 02:25 PM
Registered User
Sander, thank you for your support too
As you can see I'm right in assembling the Funjet and it is not finished. The wire between the motor and ESC are already shorter but it's true that the wire of the ESC to the sensor is a bit long. As you may have noticed I removed the original connectors to replace by wire. Connectors between the sensor and ESC are provisional because I prefer soldering. This reassures me that you say that the current sensor does not make noise. However that during my tests there was no strong current in the wire because I did not put throttle.
It is strange that a ferrite improves reception when the sensor is connected and that the ferrite does not give better results when the sensor is not connected, the wire and their position remains the same in both cases. He also seems strange that the reception is so different between the test with the sensor without the sensor. Knowing that the only difference between each test is the length of the wire that I soldered onto the sensor to replace the original plug, since taken the sensor itself does not emit noise.
The receiver corona is not ideal for FPV but thanks to his sensibility he allows to realize an clean setup...
regards
Aug 31, 2009, 09:06 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssassen
There's no such thing as dry soldering, I'd just use some flux based solder to try and see if you can reseat the power connector properly.

However I believe what has happened is that the connector has been bumped, or bent upwards, which will put considerable strain on the solder pads and can fracture the trace leading up to it. In that case I'd simply solder flexible wires directly to the input protection diode (VCC) and the nearest ground connection (GND).

Cheers,

Sander.
Tried the flux sander, didn't reseat. Its possible it could have been bent, but the transmitter has not been in any crash of violent landings to date. Either way, I just want to try and get her working again. So the input protection diode is right in front of the VCC input on the board itself correct C1-C2-C3 on the PCB or am I wrong? and the ground is next to it. If you have a simple schematic it would help me a lot, I do not want to get this resolder wrong...thanks again for the help....


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