DW Foamies 48" Juka, The Stock Build-SetUp - RC Groups
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Nov 22, 2008, 11:03 PM
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DW Foamies 48" Juka, The Stock Build-SetUp

Joe said "Just get your own from Mike at DW"
Somebody Said "It better fly exactly like yours, Joe!"

Joe is one of www.DWFoamies.com team pilots and the painter of some amazing airbrushed foam. AKA "joethefloorman" and "SNAP"

I have owned several www.DWFoamies.com and have built even more for others. I had gotten the chance to fly the Prototype 48" JUKA BAF and it was great! Last week I flew Joe's current release 48" JUKA kit. It was amazing!!!!! Several others also got to fly it and all offered $$CASH$$ to walk away w/it complete. No Money was getting it out of his hand's.

As I talked with Mike of DWFoamies about getting my own 48" JUKA. This again came up, getting it to fly "Like Joe's!" Mike mentioned he wished there was a stock build/set-up thread. I offered to do it and here we Go.......
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Nov 22, 2008, 11:25 PM
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I should first mention a current running build-thread on the 48" JUKA BAF here.

And a video/comments log.

Joe's 48" BAF JUKA blog.

This log will be directed at a complete stock build and the techniques and gear used to get a AMAZING flying DW foamie 48" JUKA BAF. Not that I'm a expert at it, but I get to hang out w/some folk's what are pretty good at it. I will also include some key trim steps once flying to get it to really fly Amazing.... So I hope every body gets the point of starting a new thread to cover this. If this goes right we should be able to get Mike of DW and Joe his team pilot to comment (correct me) along the way...
Last edited by rpmrpm; Nov 30, 2008 at 09:14 AM.
Nov 23, 2008, 12:06 AM
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The details....

Read the "48" BigA$$ Foamie Family" on www.dwfoamies.com main page about 3/4 down for info on the 48" series and the idea behind it.

I made arrangements w/Mike to get the kit and whatever else I needed. I love one stop shopping. Everything used in the build is from DW, 48" kit, Hitec servos, Scorpion motor, Castle ESC, Neuenergy LiPo, Glue/tape kit, APC prop. He even had Berge RX's in stock. The only items I did not get from DW foamies was a Rx, 2 12" ext. a set of Deans and some poly glue. Only because I already had them.

IMHO, this is where some of the biggest mistakes are made in a project. You see or get to fly a model and it looks and feels great. Then you go buy different or lower cost gear to get into the air. Yes, some low cost gear works good, but we are shooting for AMAZING on this one, not good or great.

EDIT#1: Known optional motors.
*Scorpion 3014-22 w/ APC 13x4.7SF, This is still my favorite combo, moves lots of air but still has ok speed.
*Scorpion 3014-18 w/APC 12x3.8SF, This is Joe's "combo of the week" It has a good drag race vertical but still moves enough air. This is probable the most efficient.
*Hacker 30-16M w/APC 12x3.8SF This is Joe's "last week combo" and is very close to the -18 Scorpion w/that rocket out acceleration.
*All above choices have easy 10min run time and are doable w/a 36amp ESC. I've been averaging 1700mah for a 10min mixed flight.

EDIT #1.1: Scorpion now has their new 30mm SII motors available the -22 motor is now the -830 and looks like it will work great. The -18 motor is now the -1040 and from the testing on the 48" BAF's is a Monster. CAUTION, this new version 3014-1040 motor makes serious power. I would recommend stepping up your ESC to something in the 45/55amp range and make sure your batteries can handle this amp draw.

EDIT #1.2 7/8/09 DW now is selling the DYNAMO line of motors and controllers. The DP-2820-1000KV w/APC 12x6e prop and Dynamo 35amp ESC are working great at this price point. Ask Mike, I'm sure he will put a great $$$ combo together for you.

EDIT #2: Go w/ HS-65MG on all controls. see pic notes.

EDIT #3 I've now switched over to a APC 12x3.8SF on the 3014-22 Scorpion motor, It lowered my amp draw and lengthened run time slightly.

EDIT #3.1 I am now using DW's brand of batteries. The MOJO packs have been working out really good not only on the 48" kits but I have been using them in my higher demand EDF foam jets with good results.

EDIT #4 A copied section from deeper in the thread that should be up front. From Electric-2000
Just to make things clear and from the designer himself...

I suggest three different glues on our BAF 48" & 55" kits.

-Foam Safe MEDIUM CA and Foam Safe Kicker, Bob Smith works great.
This is used around the firewall area, tacking the spar on both sides of the wing, the control horns, servo mounts, hinges on the 55" and the joiner tube for the spar. When needed, you can use it to tack areas along the fuse to keep it aligned while the PVA glue dries (see PVA below).

- Fast Cure Gorilla Glue or 30 minute Epoxy
This is used sparingly only on the areas that has a milled edge to milled edge contact. Such as the tail to fuse, the canopy and the keel.

- PVA Glue such as RC 56 Canopy glue or a crafts glue that has some body/thickness to it.
Use PVA only along the 4 joints of the fuse from nose to tail. Let dry over night, a warm environment is best.

One note on the wing spar, the kicker will mess with the Blenderm tape, make sure that it has evaporated and aired out well before taping the top and bottom of the wing spar.

Last edited by rpmrpm; Jul 08, 2009 at 11:31 PM.
Nov 23, 2008, 01:08 AM
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The Kit...

If I took all that high quality gear and put it into any old foamie I could have fun. BUT I want AMAZING!!!

The kit is VERY complete to say the least. More so than any other DW kit I have built. I'm not sure if this is special to the 48" JUKA BAF or will all other DW series kits get this treatment? When was the last time you got a battery strap w/a foamie kit.

A couple things that stand out.

-- It has some very cool flat white PVC servo holders. And the foam is cut to accept them in the proper location for Ail, Rud and Elev. They even have servo screw holes pilot drilled. "How and where do I mount my servo's?" Not any more.

-- A tail brace system w/supplied carbon rod and small PVC support washers. The foam is pre cut for the brace rods. Just insert rod w/washer and fill cavity w/glue. Done!

-- Elevator surface has a top and bottom flat PVC Anti-Twist support that gets glued to the surface. No more cracked elevator.

--The fuse is now pre cut for Items Like battery strap and servo wires. This was always a guessing game of finding the best place to hack a hole only later finding it is in the way.

--Short 2mm carbon control rod's w/2mm ez-connections for short no slop connection at both end's. No more "building rod's" w/ metal ends glued on or lose sloppy linkage. Solid, no slop for precise flight.
Last edited by rpmrpm; Nov 23, 2008 at 05:45 PM.
Nov 23, 2008, 06:17 PM
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The Foam....

All parts are high quality CNC cut 9mm Depron. The fit of all the pieces is "Tab-Lock" so it goes together quick and straight. I used a sanding bar w/200 grit to knock down the release tabs from the router, very minimal and easy.

The wings have a cool tube mounting system from the bigger 55"BAF series. The wings can be mounted in one of 3 positions to aid in CG setting or flight characteristics.
Nov 23, 2008, 06:30 PM
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rpm, i just finished building mine up, well gotta paint and install radio stuff....but like you say the machining on the kit is superb...the joints are so perfect, i had a hard time finding the joint to glue. randy.
Nov 24, 2008, 10:17 AM
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This is one of those builds that goes so quick you wait for glues to dry.

I started w/wings, I'll explain why later. Get a flat spot to lay them out. They are symmetrical so pick a R+L. Laying them out this way helps me from making 2 lefts.

Complete the final cuts to clear the wing tube channel. Wipe or blow the channel clear of foam dust and lay in your tube. I then pin the wing panel snug against the tube and tape one side. Flip the wing and pin again. Then glue in your wing tube. I use a nice bead of DW foam CA down both sides of the tube. Let it air cure as long as possible for a less brittle joint. The manual suggests epoxy or PU glue. I have had good luck w/CA on one side only, I glue the bottom. After your glue has set also cover w/tape.

If I have the time I do this before going to bed or work so the CA has time to set-up. Kicker only makes this joint brittle. If in a hurry only very lightly dust them to spead the cure time. So I did this the night before on a separate panel and set them aside. (next to all the other on going projects)
Nov 24, 2008, 10:22 AM
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Randy, I will go over a technique that work's really good for the fuse joint later on. You are "precision" nice job.
Nov 25, 2008, 09:05 AM
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I forgot to mention gluing the fuse top section together. I left the canopy section unglued at this time due to my "trim scheme"

I used SUMO Poly glue on all end joints. Poly glue works good on the end joints because it expands into the foam end pores for a strong joint. Tape over the joint to control the expansion outward.

White GorillaGlue and PL Turbo have been reported to also work well. Any Poly glue that dries white or clear. Epoxy could be used but you do not get that pore expanding "bite"

EDIT 1.0 Fast Cure Gorrilla glue is now the recommended glue for all "end joints"
Last edited by rpmrpm; Aug 02, 2010 at 12:56 AM.
Nov 25, 2008, 09:45 AM
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Getting my wing tube glued/taped in and having the top fuse ready allows me to do all my beveling at once. IMO, This is the only real "Work" you have to do. But it seams to trip some people up.

You need all the surfaces to have a 45deg bevel cut from the same side as the servo+control horn will be on. Ail = bottom. Elev = bottom. Rudder is a little more tricky. My rudder servo is on the left because my Elev is on the right. When assembling the fuse you could flip the horizontal fuse section and whined up w/ elev on left so rudder would need to be on right. Just remember Bevel from same side as servo+control horn

To get a true 45-50deg of throw you also need to make a 10deg bevel on the fuse+wing. Just eyeball the gap. bevel on servo side

The most important part of this is getting a nice "Point" on your cuts. You go to far and you cut into the top of the surface, to little and you will get binding or not the full throw from the surface. Use a new sharp blade If it starts to drag, replace it. I try to make one cut but error on not to much as the foam will shave nicely if using a fresh blade and you need to go back to clean up that "Point"
Last edited by rpmrpm; Nov 25, 2008 at 09:59 AM.
Nov 25, 2008, 06:08 PM
Team DW Foamies (Snap)
Joethefloorman's Avatar
Lookin Good Chris!!
Nov 25, 2008, 06:23 PM
ExtremeFlight - 3DHS - Legacy
blucor basher's Avatar
Great job on the thread, nice work. I **LOVE** my 48" juka. Awesome plane.
Nov 26, 2008, 01:00 AM
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Thanks I'm trying. This is pretty fun, but the build thread thing is a lot more work then I thought.
Last edited by rpmrpm; Nov 26, 2008 at 09:32 AM.
Nov 26, 2008, 09:55 AM
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Tape hinging....

I like 3M Blenderm and that is what comes in the optional glue/tape kit from DW.

If you got a nice clean "POINT" to your beveling you will need no gap in your hinge. Lay out the surface+airframe w/bevels down and run tape the length, Making sure to not stretch the tape. Burnish (press w/finger) tape down for a good "bite" to the foam.

Now fold the surface back over the airframe. We will place 2-3" tape strips over this section. I do 3 even spaced strips on the ail+rud and 4 on the elev. NOTE, on the elevator remember to leave a center section open for the tail support that will get glued on.
Nov 26, 2008, 10:20 AM
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Trim Scheme...

It's not really part of the STOCK build but I thought at least pic's of how I trimmed would be appropriate. This is why I left the canopy section unglued at the beginning.

EDIT 1.0 I've done a "mini How-to" on using the Colored Packing Tape trim schemes. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1103159

I'll also use the high quality supplies stock vinyl graphics. The canopy one cleans out the seam line nicely.
Last edited by rpmrpm; Sep 05, 2009 at 09:45 AM.

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