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Jan 23, 2009, 06:50 PM
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Thanks for those tips, guys. I'll try the bass wood/balsa blend.

--Doug
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Jan 23, 2009, 07:55 PM
Neophyte hacker
portablevcb's Avatar
Thanks about the bass, Kermit. I have used ply on most of mine just to make them stiff. Never thought about bass for the outside. And, I use 1/32 balsa too. It bends a lot easier without breaking.

So, now my laminations will be inside, 1/32 balsa, two layers of 1/64 ply. layers of balsa to build up and two layers of 1/32 bass on outside.

FWIW, the only reason for the balsa on the inside is that most glues tend to bond to balsa better than ply.

charlie
Jan 25, 2009, 12:36 AM
Planecrazy in Lodi
Charlie - I would agree with you about the glues, except my most usual glue for framing is (original) Titebond, which bonds to hardwoods about as well as it does to balsa. For laminating, I do thin it just a bit (less than 50/50) so as to allow the layers to "slip" across each other easier. For very light models (indoor "stick models" and outdoor small free flight models such as Pat's original rubber-powered free flight Inspirer Bipe), I usually use Ambroid for the least weight, but for just about everything else, I use Titebond I for framing.

BTW, I just today received my Inspirer Biplane short kit from Pat in the mail and I've been studying the plans some. Looks pretty good and the only things I think I may change are to substitute 1/8" sq. spruce for the balsa ones on the plans for the longerons, and maybe to add a few more diagonals to the fuselage and tail surfaces. I've had problems with very light structures not being very resistant to warps when covered with light plastic films - hence the diagonals. And the longerons are just a personal choice as I seem to be awfully clumsy and always manage to break balsa stick longerons - a LOT! The dummy engine and wheel pants are going to be a fair amount of work for such a simple model, but they add so much "character" to the model that I wouldn't think of leaving them off!

Now to just get "other stuff" cleared out of the way so that I can start on my own Inspirer!

Kermit
Jan 29, 2009, 02:48 PM
I eat glue
I've got a few of Pat's kits sitting here waiting to be built, and I'll probably use 1/8 bass for the longerons, and bass for the bows. I use a lot of bass, it isn't that much heavier than the balsa, and works nicer for bending when soaked in water. I'll probaby be using dyed 00 silkspan for covering my birds, just love working with the stuff. I pre-shrink all of it first. Lately I've been not shrinking it on a frame, I just soak it, spread it out, and let it dry. That way it takes most of the shrink out of it, so it doesn't warp anything. I leave all the surfaces pinned down for at least 24 hours when I dope, or spray with Krylon clear.
Last edited by baldguy; Jan 29, 2009 at 02:55 PM.
Apr 06, 2009, 10:57 PM
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LtDan's Avatar
Has anyone finished their Inspirer Bipe yet? I have got the tail surfaces, the top wing and the bottom wing done. BTW this is a question for Mr. Tritle how did you go about hinging the ailerons. It is obviously a top hinge. What is the technique that works well?
Apr 07, 2009, 12:09 AM
Flying Models Plans
I would hinge them with strips of covering film.

Thayer
Apr 07, 2009, 08:52 AM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by LtDan
Has anyone finished their Inspirer Bipe yet? I have got the tail surfaces, the top wing and the bottom wing done. BTW this is a question for Mr. Tritle how did you go about hinging the ailerons. It is obviously a top hinge. What is the technique that works well?
I use 5/32" wide strips of thin Cya hinge at the locations shown on the plans for all the controls. For the aileron hinges, check out the detail drawing, it shows the position of the hinge in a profile view.

Make the slots with your X-Acto knife, and glue the hinges in place with Canopy glue (after the frames are covered). Don't use thin Cya to glue the hinges, it makes them too stiff.

PAT
Apr 07, 2009, 11:29 PM
Registered User
LtDan's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Tritle
For the aileron hinges, check out the detail drawing, it shows the position of the hinge in a profile view. PAT
I see the Rudder and Stab locations which is not a problem. There is a detail of the aileron deflection is that what you mean? Sorry to bother you.
Apr 08, 2009, 08:25 AM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by LtDan
I see the Rudder and Stab locations which is not a problem. There is a detail of the aileron deflection is that what you mean? Sorry to bother you.
Dan, That's the one, the drawing is titled Aileron Deflection Detail. The drawing shows the pivot point near the top surface of the rib.

PAT
Apr 10, 2009, 12:52 PM
Registered User
LtDan's Avatar
Spring Break for the teacher and it been raining almost the whole week oh well I put some time in on my Inspirer Bipe in the last couple of days and here is where I'm at. The Fuse is done, the vertical and horizontals are done, the wings are done except for hinging the ailerons. Haven't mounted the motor mount yet. Landing gear and cabanes are finished. I planked the top center surfaces of both wings with 1/32 blasa. Keeps people from sticking their fingers through the covering when picking up the plane. Motor will be 2212-13 one of my favorites. I have 2 cell and 3 cell 1320's. After years of building slab sided stick planes the Inspirer brought me back to the days of building Comet kits when I was a youngin.
Jan 10, 2010, 06:32 PM
I eat glue
Didn't feel like covering the Super Cub right now, so I started the Tritle Inspirer. Got the fuse just about done.
Feb 24, 2010, 11:34 AM
Registered User
Dan Parson's Avatar
This looks like another one I have to add to my "gotta build someday" list!
Apr 03, 2011, 07:55 AM
Registered User
OK, I'm rarin' to go on mine... but first the package needs to arrive. I expect it'll be arriving this week. Since I don't have plans in front of me, I wonder if I could inquire -- what size sticks, etc. should I pick up at the hobby store? If I had to guess from the photos, I'd guess the sticks for the fuse are around 1/8 or 3/32" cross section? How about sticks for the wing spars and the wing tip bows? I'm assuming balsa of course.

Next question won't need to be solved for a while but it's really nagging at me... how are the cabanes and other wing-support wires actually attached to the wing structure? It seems to me that there would have to be protrusions through the wing covering for these bits to attach to, but such protrusions would have to be added after the covering.

Along these lines... concerning the final "rigging" (cross-wires) on the wing -- is that for show, or is it actually required for proper flying of the model?

As you can tell from the questions I'm not just a newb to Pat's kits but to biplane construction in general. I've dealt with a couple of foamie bipes but not balsa.
Apr 03, 2011, 09:19 AM
Neophyte hacker
portablevcb's Avatar
I would not worry about balsa sticks. Get a sheet of hardish balsa in 1/16, 3/32 and 1/8 thicknesses. Maybe 3/16 and 1/4. When you need some sticks use a knife and straightedge or get a 'stripper' (Master Airscrew has one fairly cheap). I use the stripper for up to 1/8", a knife and straightedge for thicker.

charlie
Apr 04, 2011, 11:12 PM
Registered User
Alrighty, let's get crackin'. Pat's kit arrived today, so I stopped by the crafts store on the way home and got some balsa sheeting in various thicknesses (as per Charlie's suggestion) and did some cutting and slicing.

For a short evening's work I've got one fuselage side done, and two wingtip bows drying on their respective forms on top of a radiator. Putting it in the microwave was not a good idea.. fortunately I was there to hit the STOP button and stop the lightning storm.

As to final assembly, if I understand correctly, the "interplane struts" and cabane wiring will be plugged into their respective slots and holes, carefully positioned, and then glued with epoxy or CA. In other words, you get to do it once and there's no going back. Gulp.


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