Use a slightly higher kV motor, say 2000kV and above that can take the amp draw.

chewy

Originally Posted by mintie

been through this thread and decided to build the 34 in model as we have a nice lake at the end of our street.
Have the plans all printed and ready to start,but want to know what motor is being used and prop size...from the plans I seem to be able to only fit a 7 1/2 in prop.IS that to small?not sure what motor to use yet.

Mintie,

A 1700 Kv Blue Wonder would do just fine. Also go with a 3s battery. It is okay on 2s, but just adequate. A 7x6 SF prop is a good choice.

Ken

Thanks Ken....is this what I should be using.http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...trunner_1700kv

Originally Posted by mintie

Thanks Ken....is this what I should be using.http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...trunner_1700kv

Thats the one! You may need to experiment with the prop. I see that they specify a 8 x 3.8 on 2s. I am thinking that you should opt for an APC 7x4E on 3s with a prop adapter. Do not use a prop saver.

Ken

Ken... I started cutting out parts for my 42" Sea BB and I read your build manual. The manual is a great piece of work, highly informative, clear and concise. It is going to make the assembly of my bird a breeze. One great job and I wanted to thank you for it. Bob

Ken.....has anybody put a full wing on your design...why I ask is I dont have the blue foam that is required,only 3mm depron.so was thinking of building a wing with top and bottom sheeting out of depron with a few depron ribs to hold the shape.I dont think weight will be a problem.cheers.

Bob,

Thanks. It was alot of work and am thankful for the the extra set of eyes I had in Bz1mcr who did the proof reading for me. I need to do one of these for the Blu Speedy Bee also.

Mintie,

Just so you know. the 26" version is built from 3mm material. But to answer your question, no one has tried a full wing yet. Your suggestion sounds doable. What about the rest of the airframe?

Ken

Ken..I have the rest cut out of 3 mm depron and have added a few extra formers where I think it is necessary to stop any flexing. The nose section is done out of white foam as I have a stack of that from other work.
Will get a bit assembled and post a pic or two.Looking forward to flying the model as we have a nice big lake two streets from home.
I cant fly my large nitro float planes there as houses are in the area.
Fly my heli in the back yard as it is e- power and no problem with neigbours.
A good looking model .thanks for the plan. Graeme

Here is some video that I finally got processed from a flying session at Springer's Pond on May 05, 2009.

Enjoy,
Ken

Mikes SeaBB Flight (2 min 59 sec)

Ken's SeaBB42 Flight (3 min 8 sec)

I've started assembling my bird. I decided to incorporate the motor pylon into the monobloc rather than attach it to the wings. Mainly I wanted to make it easier to get at the battery without removing the wings and to make it easier to waterproof the electronics. The wings will be attached with nylon bolts.

Could I get a little feedback about how you guys acheived your paint schemes, type of paint, process, etc. Thanks in advance for your help. Bob

Thanks for the great videos. I hope mine flies half as well as your's do. Bob

Interesting, your motor post to fuse idea. I would have to say that I've had a couple of flights where she seemed to fly funny, and I realized at some point I had the wing cocked... more important when the motor is on the wing! I have alignment marks on aft, but need some on front of wing. As far as finish, I first tried using the light weight spackle to fill out the joints of fuse sides to monobloc, then applied tissue/wbpu varnish. The tissue was too thin, didn't add enough skin toughness,(kept poking holes landing in the bean and grass stubble) Then I hit on coffee filter paper! really absorbs the urethane, and adds way more skin strength. It also gave a nice slick smooth finish (relatively speaking). So I used it on most all the fwd fuse from windshield to nose and back to step. I masked off the "nicer parts of fff" and painted with walmart buck a can spray paint. Didn't even have to be careful with too much paint eating the foam in the urethaned portions. The wing was all fff foam (although double skinned), and was a little tougher, had to be careful and do dry spray, several coats.

Nice Progress Bob!

Very interesting idea on the motor pylon to monoblock. Curious to see how effective it is.

Paint, well, I used colored packing tape exclusively on both the 26 and 42 versions.

Ken

That's because he did it right the first time and didn't have to make so many "corrections"! 8^)

and it is a thing of beauty and precision!

I noticed people are now building this plane with a flat bottom - how is that working out on the water by comparison to the V shaped hull?