Filip-E V-tail Has Arrived! Construction Begins! - RC Groups
Thread Tools
Jul 09, 2001, 11:22 PM
Registered User
Far4nugn's Avatar

Filip-E V-tail Has Arrived! Construction Begins!

Well, She arrived today via Fedex (a day ahead of schedule) in perfect condition. Not even a bump on the sturdy box. All pieces look to be present and it is very impressive what $119 will buy you nowadays! A bueatiful airframe to say the least

So far, I've glued the V-tail assy onto the fuse and installed the control horns in the ruddervators.

Next is gluing the 2 wing panels together and mounting the wing to the fuse.

Anyone who's built one, chime in here... there is no opening in the fuse near the wing mounting area... Do I cut one out? If so where? It would be tough to install the wing bolt plate and elev servo (in the rear of cargo bay) if I dont... also, the wing's small amount of dihedral prevents it from seating properly on the flat surface... I've found nothing in the instructions about this.

Also, the wing servo mounting areas are marked in sharpie marker... if I cut this area out, will they uncover bays or just foam? Same question about the little circles near the root of the panels. Is there a tunnel for the servo leads?

Thanks and I'll keep you posted!

PS, I have pics, but no place to post them yet...anyone with some space?

Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Jul 10, 2001, 12:51 AM
Sailplane Nut
NickW's Avatar
Howdy, I often post pictures on my free webpage space from Lycos. There are plenty of free websites out there if you dont mind a small add or two at the top of your page. I often take digital pictures of something I am stuck on, and email friends for advice with a link to the page. It sure beats waiting for the weekend to get advice.

Im working on a new Omega 1.5ME from NSP. Vtail is mounted, and motor is installed.. just have to figure out the vtail control horn mounts...

If you do cut out some of the wing saddle make sure and make the cut an oval as opposed to a square, the oval resists cracks more than a square cutout which will tend to crack in the corners.

Good Luck with yours.

Jul 10, 2001, 02:08 AM
Registered User
With my Filip slope plane I put the mounting bolt (1 only) 16.2cm back from leading edge. The cut-out that I made is 1.5cm in from the mounting bolt hole. So there is still 1.5cm of material. The hole is 7.5cm long and I tried to follow the edge of the fuse leaving about .5cm of top material. Looking at it now, the hole could have been made a little smaller and moved forward a touch.

That's how I did mine. I had the same thought about how the wing would sit on the flat saddle. It just seems to suck down nice and tight with the two pegs in the frot and 1 wing bolt though.

I do have some cracks in this area, but only after a couple crashes. Both broke the wing bolts. One crash even destroyed the battery pack that was in the nose.

The fuse is pretty tough I think. I stuck it straight into the hill with 10ozs of ballast and nothing happened other than the wing bolt shearing off and pushing the servo tray forward.

I agree with the oval idea, but i'm not that good with my dremel tool. I just cut a rectagle in the top of the sadle and sanded the corners round. It didn't crack in the corner, but down the sides of the hole. Hmmm, I just looked again and it cracked exactly at the point the where there is the least amount of material on the top surface of the sadle!

Mine had holes in the wing that had been precut for the servos, but then film was put over the hole. If this is what you have just cut the film out with a razor. It will just need a little cleaning up to get the servo to sit in the hole.

There should be two red sharpie marks near the root of the wing. This shows were to put the hole through the bottom sheet of wing to pull the servo wire through. The tunnels are percut in there. You just have to put the hole in the wing to get to them.

Good luck! It will fly great no matter what you do. Don't be surprised if you have to add more aileron travel latter down the road. Mine rolled real slow with the specs from the manual.

You also might want to put your servo arms in with a little offset towards the leading edge, rather than perfectly square. This will give you more travel up for crow without hitting the bays. I had trouble with that with the first wing I set up.

Jul 10, 2001, 11:48 PM
Registered User
Far4nugn's Avatar
Thanks for the replies!

Today, I installed the firewall, cut the servo bays and wire tunnel opening, glued the wing halves together, installed aileron horns, and cut the hole in the top of the fuse (under wing). I also made a new wing bolt plate thats a bit larger than the supplied one.

For the hole in the fuse, I cut it out centered fore-aft and left-right leaving about 3/8" of material on each side and at least 1.5" in back and 1" in front (behind the molded lip). The 'corners' are rounded with at least a 1/2" radius.

Firewall was installed with a heavy coat of medium CA and sprinkled with baking soda to absorb the 'excess'. This produced a strong fillet.

The wing servo bays were not precut, just marked. I got out the router with a 1/2" fluted bit and in about 90 seconds of careful work, I had both done. Wing panels were joined with 30 min epoxy.

Tomorrow, install wing bolt(s), wing servos (HS-55's) & pushrods, elev servo (using one HS-81), motor, & ESC. Need to order a prop!

I'm working slowly, and I've really only put in about 3-4 hours work thus far.

Jul 11, 2001, 01:36 AM
Registered User
Sounds like you are doing a great job.

I didn't think that HS-55 were strong enough for the wing servos. I used used HS 81s in my wing, though they didn't fit quit flush. Is this the servo that everyone is using in this plane?
Jul 11, 2001, 07:02 AM
The Great and Powerful Oz
Woody's Avatar
I used HS-81 servos for elevator, rudder, and ailerons on my T-tail Filip, and will use them on the V-tail Filip I'm finishing up.
The 81 servos fit completely into the wings, and have more ooomph than 55s.
Jul 11, 2001, 05:48 PM
The Great and Powerful Oz
Woody's Avatar
I have had no problems with tip stalls. It's like any other aircraft, if you get the wing going too slow, it's going to stall.
I have rudder on my T-tail Filip, I know some have built it with a fixed rudder, but with rudder, you CAN pick up the low wing during a stall. Give opposite aileron in a stall, and you can end up doing a very nice spin. The cg on my T-tail is at 68mm back from the leading edge, and it flies wonderfully there. With a rear cg, it has enabled me to do some cute slow snap rolls.

I just have to install the servos in the wing on my V-tail, and it will be ready to go. What motor are you using in yours? Mine will have the Promaxx cobalt 400 without the gearbox. My T-tail has the cobalt 400 with the gearbox, so it will be interesting to see the flight differences.
Jul 12, 2001, 01:19 AM
Registered User
Far4nugn's Avatar
Woody, I'll probably use the 81's in the wing. I have a few laying around anyhow... wouldnt want to lose an aileron in a vertical dive.... :O

I've decided to use ball links for both ends of the aileron control rods. I think it'll give more positive control than the Z-bends.

Woody, have you had any tip-stalling? A fellow at the LHS said he has a friend with what he thinks is a Philip-E hotliner (slope), and he says it was tip-stalling all over the place.... even with CG ahead of suggested...BTW, what is the CG for the slope wing?

Cant wait to get home and proceed with building.


Jul 12, 2001, 02:05 PM
Registered User
I don't have any problems with the single wing bolt. I was flying my first filip above the ocean and lost sight of it when I got below the lift zone. According to people on the beach it hit the rock face at full speed. Then it fell into the surf and got really mess up.

Even though the wing ends got just detroyed by the surf the center section area is fine. The bolt hole didn't crack or split.

I think the trick is to prep the suface and epoxy the thing together real well. I also added a little thin CA around the hole. You might want to pre-dril the hole a little prior to putting the wings together. It will be hard to drill down the epoxy joint when done.
Jul 12, 2001, 05:04 PM
Stupid gravity!
docphi's Avatar
Well gang, I just got mine today. I ordered it online on Saturday and it shows up Thursday. What a great surprise! This is a beautifully crafted plane. The workmanship is excellent! The ezone special is still available from Northeast Sailplanes if anyone is interested. The only concern I have is that the website says the servo wells are cut out, however, that is not the case. No problem. A little Dremel work and we're ready to go...

[This message has been edited by docphi (edited 07-13-2001).]
Jul 12, 2001, 08:14 PM
Registered User

I was able to mount my ailerons without any problems with clearance . Try dremmeling back the aileron cover to get the extra added clearance, if there is not enough clearance at the end. After dremmeling out the cover made the servo arm moved more freely. Oh! by the way, I used a pair of Volz Micro Maxx servos.

I think I am going to use to wing bolts, rather than the only one I just got. I had to go down to OSH to get matching bolts.

I have got the T-Tail version, and I am still trying to decide whether or not to mount the servos in the tail. I have extra servos, so I can use either CS 21 BB for the rudder and CS 21 or HS 81 MG for the elevator. It will all depend on the whether I get it to balance at the CG. I plan to use either 8 cell 1500 AU or 10 cell 600 mah.

My Honey and Filip T-Tail are almost done and I am looking for to flying them.

By the way how did you mount your engine mount? Mine was a little too large, I dremmeled it down to fit it in the fuselage. It fit real snug, and then I epoxyed it.


Jul 12, 2001, 09:11 PM
The Great and Powerful Oz
Woody's Avatar

Make sure you make an air intake up front, as the geared motor gets very toasty, and also make a way for the air to get out again.
Jul 12, 2001, 10:49 PM
Registered User
Far4nugn's Avatar
Sprocket, I mounted the wing tonight. Started with a 1/16" hole and stepped up to about 3/16". Into the hole I inserted a short length of the red 'Goldenrod' outer plastic tubing. This was a snug fit for the hole and a good fit for the wing bolt going through it. I think it will help maintain the hole after the repeated mounting/unmounting it will see. Also, when the bolt is tight, its not bearing down on the surface of the wing, but rather the end of the tube, which is flush cut on top and bottom. For the dowels, I used two 1/8 X 2" carbon fiber rods I had around (thanks gofli). This worked very well with the thin wing.

Also made the aileron control rods. Using the ball-links there is still a bit of play, but after I lube them (heavy grease) I think this will be eliminated. For differential, I'm simply leaning both servo horns forward when the ailerons are neutral so I get about twice the throw up as I do down. For starters, I'm not going to have spoileron capability, but I'll upgrade that later (after I decide I need them).

I'm having a bit of trouble with the canopy hold-down system... the rear 'tab' doesnt seem to want to slip under the lip in the cockpit opening. Have to work on that.

I agree with Woody about the ventilation. Just bench running the motor for a few seconds is enough to get it warm, it will be very warm after a minute or so up in the air. The open rear end of the fuse makes an excellent exit and should create quite a vacuum (and drag) at speed. ideally, I would open a couple vents equal in size the the rear opening. This will decrease drag (believe it or not).

Left to do: install elev servo and pushrodSs), finish up aileron setup, install velcro

Wont be long now... maybe this w/e..... of course, I AM MOVING THIS W/E aaargghh!

Jul 13, 2001, 01:26 AM
Registered User
Far4nugn's Avatar
Last night, I installed the Promaxx Cobalt 13T w/ a MA 5.5X4.5 prop. What a sweet sound on 12 cells! A little torque on the fuselage when you gun it too

I'm going to try a 6X3 cox softy first, but will move up to the MA after a couple flights... eventually, I'll put folder on there, but I need to do some testing first.
Either 10 or 12 cells seems to make this motor happy.

Also installed aileron control horns, ball links, wiring harness, and servos. I'm having clearance issues with the ball links on the servo horns and the covers, so I may change to Z-bends at the servo end, or leave the servo covers off.

Glad to hear it doesnt have bad habits. I can handle a tip-stally plane, but would prefer not to, especially in high speed pulls from vertical dive!

Sprocket, does your single wing bolt 'split' the wing halves? Is this a problem?


Jul 13, 2001, 11:20 AM
Registered User

I considered do the exact same thing you mentioned, thanks a lot for the info about making a ventilation hole. Now all I have to do is consider where to put it.

I injured my right hand and it swelled up to three sizes, but now it is back to normal (almost) that is why my building has been on hold. I hope to catch up all of you soon.

I hope to have my Honey and Filip done at the same time, all will be preflighted and checked for CG so they will fly right. I checked my servos and they move freely without any type of binding.