The CopterX Black Angel Unboxed
Box is small. 1.5x a shoe box
Parts set are neatly bagged with pressed plastic corners for small parts. Hex keys included.
I just adore this frame. It is well-finished. And design is good. I am not sure if it is a clone of any heli out there. But I've seen this single piece sides before.
Sweet reinforcement ring. Gives a nice CopterX signature.
Boom block has seen some weight savings. A single bolt above and two screws below means no more free turning tubes inside.
Here's a frontal view to show its slim profile. Looks like some components need to be mounted outside.
Fit and finish of black cf against polished aluminum is just pure eye candy.
Here's the gyro mounting plate. Frame is upside down. Your gyro will be safe from now on. No more make-do mounting methods.
A view of the motor mount. First impression tells me I need to mount the motor and set the gear mesh before I mount the servos. I certainly hope I am wrong. That would be a b_tch.
The fabulous head with its short flybar cage and cantelever upper mixing arm. Measurements suggest a more aggressive response is possible.
The whole head with the gold swash. Perhaps for good luck!
Enjoy these for now. Build notes to follow.
There are 3 retailers of the CopterX SE in the US. I'm sure if response is good they might just bring some kits over. But unlike the SE which shares parts with the Trex, this one doesn't. They might have to carry some parts. If you really like this heli, you can order parts stock in advance. Given our experience, we already know which parts we regularly consume. I am still keeping my SE for backup. That I will fly if and when I need to order parts for the Black Angel. I'll call it BA. Bad A_S LOL.
This is a well built kit. The screws were very tight and most had threadlock. I suggest testing each screw with a suitable allen driver. If it takes effort to crack it loose, leave it alone. If you can turn it then remove and reinstall with threadlock. Some screws are not 1.5mm. These strip easily. The heads have beveled sides compared to the rounded profile of most screws. If you see these, proceed with caution. Otherwise, if stripped, cut a slot and remove with a screwdriver. I found 1/16" hex for the lower mixing arms.
Personal Tools Used:
CopterX hex driver (highly recommended. Get the whole set.)
Dremel with cutting wheel
Long nose vise grip
Loctite 242 (blue compound)
Small flat screwdriver (width of dremel cutoff wheel)
Extra 1.5 head hex screws (various lengths to replace bad ones)
Homemade tap for ball screwing on servo horns. I just cut two notches with Dremel on a spare 1.5 hex bolt. Then I tapered the tip. Without this, it was impossible to drive the balls into the servo horns.
Not threadlocked screws found on:
• folded anti rotation bracket (two missing screws in frame bag along with canopy mounts)
• a screw on the head
• screws for adjustable battery plate
• screws for esc plate
• screws used for attaching other component sets
Additional parts used (sold separately)
• screw bags ( bolts and nuts for replacement of stripped screws and for servo mounting) .
- Screws that strip have a different head profile. Cover with masking tape. Expose head. Cut with dremel. Remove with screw driver
- Install two bolts on each side of the anti rotation bracket. Extra screws are in the frame bag corner pouch.
- Loose screws on battery tray and esc tray
- lower mixer arms are 1/16 hex.
- You must use a tap to lay threads into the servos horns. This makes installation of balls easier. I made one from a spare 1.5mm hex bolt.
*Final Build in the following days.
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Last edited by Gino CP; Nov 18, 2008 at 09:34 PM.
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