Great Planes Escapade™ .40-.56 EP ARF Review - Page 6 - RC Groups
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Jul 27, 2010, 09:28 AM
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byrocat's Avatar
Woh! I'm pulling about 40 amps WOT with an APC 10x6 on the AXI 2826/10 with the HK 60/70AMP esc w/o bec.

Performance is comparable to a .45 trainer and I haven't pushed the envelope. Take-off runs are about 50-75 feet on dry 2-inches of grass with stock wheels. None of the instructors who've given me a hand have commented that it seems underpowered. Take-offs are WOT then back to 3/4 throttle and that's fast enough for me. Next time, I'll back further on the throttle and see what happens. Right now, my main problem is me -- cranking in aileron too hard and then over-compensating or worse, doing it again.....

Too bad I have a must-attend wedding this weekend or I'd be pushing to get this back in the air. Maybe next weekend....
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Jul 27, 2010, 02:19 PM
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Unfortunately my grass is not 2". I like to get off the ground fast because the runway seems to hide some mystery obstacles and isn't always mowed when it should be.

I fly a lot at 1/2 throttle. Full throttle is fun and it will pull unlimited verticle. I still don't consider this to be a fast plane. It is however the most stable plane I've flown.
Aug 08, 2010, 04:13 PM
AKA Sir crash-alot

Battery pack

Just a note to say if you are building this plane as the instructions there is no room for the single aliron servo under the battery pack as shown in the instructions. Other then that it is very streight forward. And a pleasure to build.
Aug 10, 2010, 08:48 AM
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byrocat's Avatar
Does anyone have an unused electric motor mount that they wouldn't mind parting with? Yes, another part that's back-ordered at GP. I'm located in the Toronto, Ontario Canada area and will cover reasonable price and postage.
Aug 10, 2010, 09:18 AM
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I'm not using my motor mount. You're welcome to it if you like. Just PM me.


Aug 10, 2010, 02:30 PM
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byrocat's Avatar
Thanks, LawMan! PM is in your basket.....
Aug 18, 2010, 02:39 PM
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IronKnees's Avatar
I have two Escapades, well, perhaps I should say had two because one is still being searched for way out in a huge cornfield. BOTH of these planes have had the exact same problem, and after 40 years of flying R/C, frankly I'm stumped. When you do a loop, by the way, I have a Super Tigre .51 in mine which is physically the same size as their .40, and once in the air, power reduction is the first thing I do... Not as young as I used to be. Anyway, at the top of a loop, both of these planes do a very sudden and aggressive roll. Recovery is straight forward, but it's pretty wicked until settled down. Control throws both high and low are by the book, and the C/G is exactly right. It's been double double triple triple checked... I'm at a loss and wonder if anybody else has heard of this. Oh, one other thing. I angled that huge muffler that comes on the Super Tigre engines at about a 45 degree down, and then with a Dubro exhaust deflector, channeled the exhaust down and away. I've been wondering if that exhaust is doing something aerodynamically??? At times this plane is like it's on rails, but at times it becomes a handful and is clearly an erodynamic thing... Thanks. Dave
Aug 18, 2010, 04:25 PM
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IronKnees's Avatar
Thanks. Somewhere else in either this same thread, I found out about horizontal stab failures and flexing... I went out and discovered that my tail would move alarmingly in all four directions. Mention was made that this had been causing snaps at the top of loops, so I pulled the tail (attached as per the plans) got out the 30 min. Epoxi and had at it. Even after re-attaching the nuts, it was clear that this slop was fixed. If after the glue dries I am still not quite convinced, I will do what I have done to some other models and add flying wires at least to the bottom of the stab going from near the tip to the fuse. Usually if I add one, I add two so in-flight warp simply can not happen... Thanks again for the fast reply... Dave
Aug 19, 2010, 09:19 AM
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byrocat's Avatar
Sounds like a solution. Hopefully you didn't overuse the epoxy (wet the surfaces not flood them) and didn't add too much tweight to the tail end (reblancing required).

An alternative might be to replace the tail feathers with 1/4-inch sheet (contest grade C cut)
Aug 25, 2010, 11:07 PM
AKA Sir crash-alot



I read al the post's about balancing the plane and this is what worked for me.
I used an OS 55AX engine.
When you go tomount the fuel tank floor there is an opening just big enought to get a 4.8 volt battery in. The batttery pack is right up against the back of the fire wall.
Alos I used some regular DuBro low bounch whell and left off the wheel pants. I hooked every thing up and set the G G machine to 2 1/2" like the instructions and the plane balanced just fine. Will write more after the first flight comiong up this weekend and let you know how it flies.
Hope this helps somebody.

Happy flying
Aug 26, 2010, 08:58 AM
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byrocat's Avatar
Bent-prop, you failed to note a couple of items when you were assembling -- the parts that you left off/substituted were located AHEAD (emphasis only) of the CofG. The battery positioning is a good way of not using static weight (weight that does nothing except sit there) -- batteries are "live" in that they actively contribute to the opertion of the airplane.

Can I assume that you got the plane to balance without adding any lead?
Aug 27, 2010, 08:45 PM
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kingsflyer's Avatar
Originally Posted by IronKnees
....will do what I have done to some other models and add flying wires at least to the bottom of the stab going from near the tip to the fuse. Usually if I add one, I add two so in-flight warp simply can not happen... Thanks again for the fast reply... Dave
I've had good luck using Carbon Fiber rods for tail feather braces. It's lighter than wire and works in compression as well as tension.

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Nov 26, 2011, 12:13 PM
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chandley's Avatar
any one stillone this forom i have a question
can you rotate the engine to the left 90 degres???
Nov 26, 2011, 05:09 PM
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N1EDM's Avatar
A bunch of us are here. I have some thoughts on the matter, but haven't done it myself. I'll let someone else chime in first, if they've actually had the opportunity.

I imagine that if you mount it at 90 degrees, you will have to cut part of one cheek away. If you have the optional cowl, you would have to do that anyway.

You may even want to consider rotating it to abotu 120 degrees so that the muffler is directly beneath the bottom sheeting, but would it extend down enough to miss the bottom of the airplane? Or, would it bump into the sheeting?

Just my $.02

Dec 28, 2011, 11:52 AM
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chandley's Avatar
i did rotate the 55 ax motor an the muffler is missing the right cheeck an had to cut some of the cheeck away this bird runs great in flight an awsome on landing i ballance nose to tail perfect an best of all no mor glow oil all over the right wing with a dubro exstion actully hardly no oil at all called the boys at great planes first an they said go for it it works great guys just so you know happy hollidays to all

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