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Feb 16, 2003, 11:40 PM
Registered User

Elmers Rubber Cement V.S. Dap Weldwood Contact Cement


I built an IFO type plane. I went out and got Elmers Rubber cement to attach the ripstop nylon to the frame. It did not work out that well and did not hold as well as I thought it should. I took the covering off and removed all the dry rubber cement by rubbing it. I now have a fresh frame and fabric to try again.

Is elmers rubber cement not the same type of glue as Dap Welwood contact cement? If it is not then I know what the problem is. If it is then what is the correct way to use it?

Thanks,
Kenny
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Feb 17, 2003, 06:38 AM
aka: A.Roger Wilfong
gnofliwr's Avatar
Yes, it is not the same thing.

About the only use rubber cement has in modeling is to temporarily attach paper templates to wood. It doesn't work for permanent attachment. Elmers does make a contact cement similar to Weldwood, but it doesn't have "rubber" in the name. Contact cement is good for permanent bonds. You coat both surfaces and let it dry - then press the two surfaces together. If done right, they bond instantly. You have to have everything lined up because you don't get a second chance - as soon as they touch, they bond (I once saw a carpenter trash a counter top and start over when the piece of Formica he was installing accidentally touched the surface at the wrong point - it required lots of solivent and the Formica came off in little chunks - sometimes taking pieces of plywood with it).
Feb 17, 2003, 06:32 PM
Registered User
I've had very good luck releasing the Welwood contact cement using acetone. Was on coroplast however
Feb 18, 2003, 07:20 AM
aka: A.Roger Wilfong
gnofliwr's Avatar
uncled,

I'm interested in how well the Weldwood bonded the Coroplast. Were you bonding Coroplast to Coroplast? How well did it hold?

- Roger
Feb 18, 2003, 08:32 AM
Registered User
Hello Roger, The Dap Weldwood , DevCon or TRue Value's TruBond contact cement was the recommended adhesives for building the now out of date U. S. AirCore line of models. It works very well , as does some of the silicone sealant types of products. The U. S. AirCore models had some areas where it was easy to make a mistake in joining parts so the ability of acetone to release the parts was a welcome find The contact cement MUST be allowed to dry before the parts are pressed together however. If you don't allow the cement to dry to the proper stage - - - sometimes twenty minutes or more - - - - It will not work. I Bonded Coroplast to Coroplast and many other materials to Coroplast as well. Hope this helps, Don
Feb 18, 2003, 09:22 AM
Registered User
birdbrain's Avatar
are any of the above mentioned contacy cements compatible with foam?
Feb 18, 2003, 09:28 AM
Registered User
I am guessing No, but there are water based contact cements that might be. I have used reinforced tape on foam after dusting the foam with 3M 77 - - - then applying the contact cement on the taped area - - - then to whatever I wanted to secure and this works pretty well for some odd things
Feb 18, 2003, 09:37 AM
Team 30 Micro EDF
Mike Taylor's Avatar
I'm become an RC-56 fan for bonding foam to anything. Flexible, strong, clear when it cures, but does take a long time to cure...
Feb 18, 2003, 09:53 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally posted by Mike Taylor
I'm become an RC-56 fan for bonding foam to anything. Flexible, strong, clear when it cures, but does take a long time to cure...
I've seen that mentioned before. Who's product is it and where can it be found ? Thanks, Don
Feb 18, 2003, 09:57 AM
What Canary?
KeithK's Avatar
Kenny,

The "airproofing" the manufacturers applied to the ripstop is hard to adhere to. THe Weldwood I use works well, but I do have to add a bit here and there due to the strain on the fabric from use. Are you applying it in a warm area? Also, make sure the product you use is as thin as possible. Older cans of cement lose their ability to stick well to this type of material. Plus, using a new can of Weldwood cement, in a warm enclosed environment, you get to see colors you never new existed
Feb 18, 2003, 10:52 AM
Team 30 Micro EDF
Mike Taylor's Avatar
Don,

I'll look at the bottle when I get home and give the mfr's name, but I got it from the LHS for building the FanTastic GeeBee, and have been using it more and more ever since. It is a moisture curing, clear drying, elastic glue with a lot of good qualities...
Feb 18, 2003, 11:08 PM
Registered User
Yup,

I used welwood and it worked about 100 times better. This is my first IFO covering so I am not that satified with it but it flies so someday I will build another.

thanks,
Kenny