Richard,

Thats normal in this Kit, my first idea was to invert the flaps, when I saw the height difference I quit the idea.
The result was the need os adjust the flap travel working it up and down.
Its working preaty good specially when using a Crow landing.

Crow works well on this model with the flaps hinged at the top and in my opinion it is not worth the effort to reverse them. I did replace the monokote hinge with a normal tape hinge.

Here is a link to a video of me landing my condor with the limited travel crow braking.

Condor Glider (1 min 17 sec)

I have had over thirty flights with my condor, all off the slope.I have standard HS 422 servos fitted for the flaps,HS 82 MG for ailerons,and two standard servos in the cockpit for rudder and elevator.I have had no problems with any of the servos,and l run them on 6 volt/2000 mah eneloop nical metal hydride pack.I have flown it in both light and strong winds.The flaps at 90 degrees down with down elevator,virtually stop the condor in the air,and its easy to land.The condor is still one of my favourites,for sloping.

Originally Posted by olivergottlieb

Richard,

Thats normal in this Kit, my first idea was to invert the flaps, when I saw the height difference I quit the idea.
The result was the need os adjust the flap travel working it up and down.
Its working preaty good specially when using a Crow landing.

Hello,
I'm not sure I'm understanding properly: you DIDN'T invert the flaps but you adjusted the flap travel? How?
Thanks!

Originally Posted by snarf007

Here is a link to a video of me landing my condor with the limited travel crow braking.

Thanks a lot for the video.
It seems that the Condor can loose height quite well in a short space even without inverting the flap. Perhaps it's just my impression but... this is what I see in the video...

Originally Posted by snarf007

I did replace the monokote hinge with a normal tape hinge.

Sorry for my ignorance about, but... does this mean that you pull off the monokote and stick the flap/ailerons with a particular tape? For the whole length of flap/ailerons?

Thanks in advance!

Hi Richard

The way I received my kit, the flaps and ailerons were hinged with the monokote they used to cover the wing. I found it very stiff and restrictive. I used a small blade to cut through the monokote hinge as if you were removing the ailerons and flaps and then just rehinged them with hinge tape for the whole length of the wing. One layer of hinge tape on top and one on the bottom.

http://www.icare-rc.com/tape.htm

Ok!
Tape has been ordered. :-)
I have just to understand if, after cutting the monokote to separate flaps/ailerons, I have to hinge on the monokote or on the wood... Cuold the monokote be pulled away from forces that "new" tape-hinges apply on it?

On the Monocote / Profilm whatever. Tape won't really stick to wood..

If you aren't going to flip the flaps, it makes no sense to remove the factory hinges - they usually consist of tape + profilm (unless they are obviously poor)...

I understood.
Sorry for asking so many questions (please, feel free to kick me away ) but I'm proceeding very slowly in order to do things properly and... it's really helpful asking to people already built the condor.

I'm fighting against the wing's pins (they don't want to be inserted into the wing more than 2mm) but... I can win. :-)

I sure got no problems with questions!

Originally Posted by _Richard

Hello,
I'm not sure I'm understanding properly: you DIDN'T invert the flaps but you adjusted the flap travel? How?
Thanks!

Richard,

I just loose up the flap using heat and bending down the flap. The cover got a little bit more stretched but the down travel got better.

My idea is to remove the “step” by sanding the flap and aileron without removing from the wing. I will use a thin aluminum plate to protect the wing and sand the flap and aileron., them cover it back.

This is another good idea...

I'm trying to find a good way to fix the flaps/ailerons servo too... the cover included in the package are bad-plastic ones... I saw good solution on this topic: are they made of wood? do I need a special wood/thickness?
I'm very close to start building the "bird"... :-)

What I did got me some work that if I had a better drill could be easier.

O fix the ailerons and flaps servos I made this way:
First fix the servo sideways on place using 3M double side strong tape.
Then using medium CA glued 2 peaces of balsa at the sides of the servo.
Drill holes on the balsa peaces (or the will broke) and screwed a peace on the top securing the servo.

This way the servo will hold by the balsa peaces and won’t leave place because the double side tape.
If you need to change the servo unscrew the plastic cover and replace the tape.

Also I cover the hole on the wings with white oracover, leaving a slot where the servo arm gets out.

Hello everybody.
Thanks for the answers.
Yesterday I tried to fit some pieces into the fusealage and... some questions more comes up. :-)

- it seems that the rods of the rudder (both) end very far from the rudder (you can see the pictures). It means that the rod that's opposite to the bend of the rudder is very very far from the rudder applying a strong force. Furthermore, even when the rudder is straight, if I stick the rod to the rudder, it is pushed toward the fusealage increasing friction of the rod... :-( Anybody else faced this problem?

- where do I have to glue the pins that keep the wings into the right position (indicated by the red arrow in the picture)? Into the wings or into the fusealage?

Thanks in advance,
Richard

I changed the rod to a metal cable, I had a peace from a Dubro pull-pull kit, but you can use any other cable. I gives a much smoother operation and is lighter. I already saw people using a fishing cable on it might be metal or even a strong nylon one.

Glue the pins into the wing, you will have to put a hook there too, but be careful to have the pins align.