Blade mCX mods - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Oct 03, 2008, 06:33 PM
Rocket Programmer
jasmine2501's Avatar
I was saying it's a good radio - I might get one for some of my planes... don't really like the bulky feel of it too much though.
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Oct 03, 2008, 07:34 PM
Registered User
rbinc's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasmine2501
I was saying it's a good radio - I might get one for some of my planes... don't really like the bulky feel of it too much though.
Um.... that was my point. It's a fine 5 ch DSM2 plank radio if you need nothing other than DR and delta mix. It's just not a helicopter radio.

Regards
Oct 03, 2008, 07:44 PM
Suspended Account
who needs a radio?

I have a MCX !!! I have fun watching it fly.

Ok sorry it does need some input
Oct 03, 2008, 07:47 PM
I'm just a 2.5D Pilot
rickgode's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butters
Hay all peep this: http://www.micro-flight.com/Walkera%205-6.htm

I bought this canopy for my DayWalker but it appeared to be a tad too big. But for the mcx it would be spot on!

But I sold the canopy some time ago. So it looks like one of us needs to buy and try to mount it to the mcx. Any volunteers?
Butters, that canopy looks AMAZING! I don't like the squared off look of the CX2s and the MCX, I wish the MCX would have looked more like the original CX. I just need to see if a hobby shop nearby carries those canopies.

Ricky
Oct 03, 2008, 07:57 PM
Registered User
Man...I wish someone would hurry up and get a vid of this thing with all of the glow parts!!
I have an unnatural obsession with glow-in-the-dark things...stems from building Aurora monster models in my youth lol.
Oct 03, 2008, 08:16 PM
Registered User
JonJohnston's Avatar
Here is the main frame, STEP. If someone is interested in the legacy data in SolidWorks, let me know and I will send them to you.

Jonny
Oct 03, 2008, 08:24 PM
Closed Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by Butters
Hay all peep this: http://www.micro-flight.com/Walkera%205-6.htm

I bought this canopy for my DayWalker but it appeared to be a tad too big. But for the mcx it would be spot on!

But I sold the canopy some time ago. So it looks like one of us needs to buy and try to mount it to the mcx. Any volunteers?
I have a couple of the Mia carbon canopies Butters and they will fit. The opening at the top needs to be opened up towards the front more to allow for the swash links to clear, but otherwise they are a direct fit. Just need two additional mounting pin holes for the bottom mounts.
They are made from the same material as the stock ones so weight shouldnt be an issue either.
With a little creativity the 4#3B canopy will also work
Last edited by Xrayted; Oct 03, 2008 at 08:36 PM.
Oct 03, 2008, 08:43 PM
I'm just a 2.5D Pilot
rickgode's Avatar
That looks so cool, I like the looks of these canopies better.
Oct 03, 2008, 08:54 PM
Closed Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickgode
That looks so cool, I like the looks of these canopies better.
Yeah there is not much difference between the stock and 4#3 canopy other than the 4#3 having smoother lines to it. If you were to trim the mounting portion shorter, the canopy would sit back on the heli like the stock one and look much better. Its slips right over the electronics perfectly and has plenty of room for the swash links. I just dont want to cut this one up since I have Walkeras to use it on.
I think the carbon look Mia canopy will look really good. Im leaving the country for a few weeks and will mod one up when I return, but who knows what everyone else will have already done by then
Oct 03, 2008, 08:55 PM
Suspended Account
hmm I think it's time to play with thermo forming .....
Oct 04, 2008, 02:23 AM
Registered User
Butters's Avatar
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ght=reflex+cx2


You all can thank me later! LOL

Also, I did it for my Walkera 5G6 it looks AWESOME!
Last edited by Butters; Oct 04, 2008 at 02:33 AM.
Oct 04, 2008, 10:13 AM
Registered User

charger


Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR2
But what about the charge circuit that is still in the charger??? The way you are hooking things up, your charger feeds into that small circuit board. I haven't looked to see how the components there relate to the wires that go up to the battery charge jack but wouldn't they affect the operation of your external charger in some way?
Because I hooked the power jack directly to the wire going to the battery connector, the entire existing circuit is removed from my new circuit. Only the ground is connected. The switch inside the power jack takes care of this.

However, you are so right that I screwed up the schematic. What it should look like is where you see the AA batteries in the circuit, you should see the AA batteries and the existing charge circuit. The output of the internal charge circuit then attaches to the power jack. I'll redraw it and submit it later.
Oct 04, 2008, 10:28 AM
Registered User

Forward speed mod


I love the new Blade mcx in every way except for it slow forward speed. One thing nice about this little guy is it stability in a hover. I did not want to shorten the flybar to increase forward speed, because that would decrease hover stability. The servos on this heli are not angular but linear which means you cannot adjust the servo throw by moving the linkage further out the servo arm like you can on the big brother, the cx. I noticed that the linkages that connect the lower blades to the swashplate angle in at the swash and out at the blades. I did not measure this angle, but it is significant. So if I were to extend the swash plate linkage balls out a bit to make these linkages more parallel, that would give more pitch change to the lower blades. This in turn should cause the heli to fly much faster. Boy was I surprised as to how much. I can now fly it so fast that I can feed in almost full throttle on a fresh battery without climbing in forward flight. Backwards flight is even faster. Now, I just have to be careful when I stop or change direction so as to not cause blade clash. That will soon be cured by stretching the inner shaft a bit, but first, here's how to make the speed mod:

You will need:
1 extra set of upper blades ($2.99).
1 tiny piece (1 inch or so) of .035 inch (Or there about) carbon fiber rod.
CA glue (flexible preferred), or something better (see note below on this)

Cut the linkage balls off of the extra set of blades. File the ball peg length so the leg and ball are about .09 inch long.

Disassemble your heli as follows:

Start by loosening the two screws on the drive gear that is on the bottom of the heli.
This allows you to pull the upper blades along with the inner shaft out the top of the heli.
Pull the inner shaft bushing and holder off the top of the outer drive shaft.
Remove the lower blade linkages from the swashplate.
Remove the lower blades secured by two screws.
Loosen the two screws that secure the lower blade holder to the outer shaft.
Slide the lower blade holder off the top of the outer shaft.
Remove the two servo linkages from the swashplate and remove the swashplate.

Now that he heli is disassembled we can start the mod:

Glue one ball to the tip of the existing linkage ball on either side of the swashplate, extending the effective swashplate ball outwards by .09 inch. You now have a swashplate with two balls on each side. Only the outer ball will be attached to the linkage when we reassemble the heli.

(note) If you look at the picture below, you will see that I added these two balls to the existing balls, in such a way to make sure that the 4 balls lie in a straight line. After I assembled the heli, I noticed that the swashplate is not a bit loose, due to the fact that the linkages are now parallel. They no longer have to be as long to reach the swashplate. Strangely, my heli does not feel loose in flight. It feels just as locked in as it did before. I do suggest a simple fix for this that I have not yet done, and I do not plan to do it until I break one of the balls off the swashplate from some future crash. It flies so well now, I donít want to take the time until I need to. To correct the issue, simply glue the balls on at a slight downward leaning angle. This will place the balls further away from the upper blades, taking up the slop in the linkages.

The next step is to extend the 4 pegs on the lower blade shaft holder so the blade pitch linkage will remain captured by the pegs after they have been moved outwards on the swashplate. This is really quite easy to do. Take the carbon rod and score the outer circumference about .05 inch from one end with a dremel tool and a cutoff wheel or something similar so that the rod piece is just barely hanging on the remainder of the rod. Put a tiny drop of CA on the tip of the .05 inch rod piece and glue it to the end of one of the 4 pegs on the blade holder. Once dry (zapped), finish off the cut with the dremel or simply break it off. Do this for the 3 remaining pegs.

Lastly, remove about 1 mm off the top of the swashplate anti-rotation pegs. Failing to do this could result in your extended swash balls coming into contact with these pegs. This is especially important if you took my advice and glued the balls on at a slight angle. I just touched my cutoff wheel to them to shorten them a bit.

Reassemble your heli in the reverse order described above. Take care when tightening the two screws that affix the lower blade holder to the outer shaft. If you do not get the two screws to go into the center of the holes in the outer shaft, you will booger up the holes. This will also cause more or less slop in the blade linkages depending on weather you are too high or low here.
You should notice the lower blade linkages are near parallel now.
Bench test the linkages with your remote to check for binding before you fly by slowly spooling up and moving the cyclic to all extremes. If there is no binding, itís time to fly.
Pop the heli up into a hover and you'll immediately notice the heli is hard to move slowly. It wants to go everywhere. I found that 30% exponential on the elevator and aileron fixed it right up. Now it still flies exactly like stock around center stick, but flies quite fast at the outer edges.

You might also try mixing the aileron and elevator with the throttle so that when either aileron or elevator inputs are given, the throttle is increased About a 9-10 % mix seems to work. This is not necessary but it helps with or without this mod to keep the heli from descending when you apply cyclic inputs. Thanks to whoever suggested this a while back.

Extra note: Iíve now flown 4 batteries on this mod will no ill effects. I do have a fear though. I am concerned that the tiny drop of CA glue that is securing the extra balls to the swash plate will someday give way and Iíll be seeing my beautiful heli come crashing to the ground. While a preflight check should help elimate my fears, I suspect one will break off quite easily in a crash. Nothing that canít be fixed, but I wonder if there might be a better glue to use here. Maybe contact cement or epoxy. I think Contact cement might work best as it remains a bit more flexible and holds well once it is very dry. Epoxy kinda scares me as it seems to set up too brittle.

I thought about reinforcing the balls by imbedding a bit of a steel needle through them. But the balls are so tiny that I do not have a drill small enough to core them out. And pushing a heated needle through them will surely destroy these tiny balls. Does anyone have any ideas here?
Oct 04, 2008, 10:39 AM
Closed Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by MMCGinnis
I love the new Blade mcx in every way except for it slow forward speed. One thing nice about this little guy is it stability in a hover. I did not want to shorten the flybar to increase forward speed, because that would decrease hover stability. The servos on this heli are not angular but linear which means you cannot adjust the servo throw by moving the linkage further out the servo arm like you can on the big brother, the cx. I noticed that the linkages that connect the lower blades to the swashplate angle in at the swash and out at the blades. I did not measure this angle, but it is significant. So if I were to extend the swash plate linkage balls out a bit to make these linkages more parallel, that would give more pitch change to the lower blades. This in turn should cause the heli to fly much faster. Boy was I surprised as to how much. I can now fly it so fast that I can feed in almost full throttle on a fresh battery without climbing in forward flight. Backwards flight is even faster. Now, I just have to be careful when I stop or change direction so as to not cause blade clash. That will soon be cured by stretching the inner shaft a bit, but first, here's how to make the speed mod:

You will need:
1 extra set of upper blades ($2.99).
1 tiny piece (1 inch or so) of .035 inch (Or there about) carbon fiber rod.
CA glue (flexible preferred), or something better (see note below on this)

Cut the linkage balls off of the extra set of blades. File the ball peg length so the leg and ball are about .09 inch long.

Disassemble your heli as follows:

Start by loosening the two screws on the drive gear that is on the bottom of the heli.
This allows you to pull the upper blades along with the inner shaft out the top of the heli.
Pull the inner shaft bushing and holder off the top of the outer drive shaft.
Remove the lower blade linkages from the swashplate.
Remove the lower blades secured by two screws.
Loosen the two screws that secure the lower blade holder to the outer shaft.
Slide the lower blade holder off the top of the outer shaft.
Remove the two servo linkages from the swashplate and remove the swashplate.

Now that he heli is disassembled we can start the mod:

Glue one ball to the tip of the existing linkage ball on either side of the swashplate, extending the effective swashplate ball outwards by .09 inch. You now have a swashplate with two balls on each side. Only the outer ball will be attached to the linkage when we reassemble the heli.

(note) If you look at the picture below, you will see that I added these two balls to the existing balls, in such a way to make sure that the 4 balls lie in a straight line. After I assembled the heli, I noticed that the swashplate is not a bit loose, due to the fact that the linkages are now parallel. They no longer have to be as long to reach the swashplate. Strangely, my heli does not feel loose in flight. It feels just as locked in as it did before. I do suggest a simple fix for this that I have not yet done, and I do not plan to do it until I break one of the balls off the swashplate from some future crash. It flies so well now, I donít want to take the time until I need to. To correct the issue, simply glue the balls on at a slight downward leaning angle. This will place the balls further away from the upper blades, taking up the slop in the linkages.

The next step is to extend the 4 pegs on the lower blade shaft holder so the blade pitch linkage will remain captured by the pegs after they have been moved outwards on the swashplate. This is really quite easy to do. Take the carbon rod and score the outer circumference about .05 inch from one end with a dremel tool and a cutoff wheel or something similar so that the rod piece is just barely hanging on the remainder of the rod. Put a tiny drop of CA on the tip of the .05 inch rod piece and glue it to the end of one of the 4 pegs on the blade holder. Once dry (zapped), finish off the cut with the dremel or simply break it off. Do this for the 3 remaining pegs.

Lastly, remove about 1 mm off the top of the swashplate anti-rotation pegs. Failing to do this could result in your extended swash balls coming into contact with these pegs. This is especially important if you took my advice and glued the balls on at a slight angle. I just touched my cutoff wheel to them to shorten them a bit.

Reassemble your heli in the reverse order described above. Take care when tightening the two screws that affix the lower blade holder to the outer shaft. If you do not get the two screws to go into the center of the holes in the outer shaft, you will booger up the holes. This will also cause more or less slop in the blade linkages depending on weather you are too high or low here.
You should notice the lower blade linkages are near parallel now.
Bench test the linkages with your remote to check for binding before you fly by slowly spooling up and moving the cyclic to all extremes. If there is no binding, itís time to fly.
Pop the heli up into a hover and you'll immediately notice the heli is hard to move slowly. It wants to go everywhere. I found that 30% exponential on the elevator and aileron fixed it right up. Now it still flies exactly like stock around center stick, but flies quite fast at the outer edges.

You might also try mixing the aileron and elevator with the throttle so that when either aileron or elevator inputs are given, the throttle is increased About a 9-10 % mix seems to work. This is not necessary but it helps with or without this mod to keep the heli from descending when you apply cyclic inputs. Thanks to whoever suggested this a while back.

Extra note: Iíve now flown 4 batteries on this mod will no ill effects. I do have a fear though. I am concerned that the tiny drop of CA glue that is securing the extra balls to the swash plate will someday give way and Iíll be seeing my beautiful heli come crashing to the ground. While a preflight check should help elimate my fears, I suspect one will break off quite easily in a crash. Nothing that canít be fixed, but I wonder if there might be a better glue to use here. Maybe contact cement or epoxy. I think Contact cement might work best as it remains a bit more flexible and holds well once it is very dry. Epoxy kinda scares me as it seems to set up too brittle.

I thought about reinforcing the balls by imbedding a bit of a steel needle through them. But the balls are so tiny that I do not have a drill small enough to core them out. And pushing a heated needle through them will surely destroy these tiny balls. Does anyone have any ideas here?
Very cool info! Your mod is along the same line that I was thinking but in a different approach.
The swash arms are very long and this reduces the leverage the servo has on moving the swash.
My idea is to cut the swash link arms in the middle and then "stack" the part with the ball connection on top of the remaining portion coming off the swash. If the plastic is roughed up a bit, then CA should hold it.
Then wrap the joint in thread and soak it in CA. This should give a solid bond and then you would effectively get much more swash throw as you have made the swash arms about 50% shorter. Adjust the links for the slightly higher swash connection and relevel the swash. I will probably lose some of the increased travel due to fact that the servo links will be at and angle traveling to the swash, but it should still give much more throw.
Im traveling and wont have time to try this for a few weeks, but the physics are feasible. Im using a DX7 so if the swash movement is too much I should be able to just fine tune it out to what I need.

Thanks for sharing the info!!
Oct 04, 2008, 11:12 AM
Registered User

Corrected charger mod


This is the corrected schematic for adding an external power jack to the side of the eflite charger. I made a major blunder in the original that would feed external charger power back into the eflite charge circuit . I made it correct the first time, I just drew it wrong.

When the plug is inserted, it automatically disconnects the eflite circuit and allows the external charger to do its thing.

Sorry for the screw up.


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